Hello all, I have not posted here for a while. But I need your advice. When my '05 F430 was in for annual service this spring I had them put in a new battery. Now the car won't pass smog. I have driven multiple trips, putting it through a full range of driving conditions, from start-stop to sustained freeway. Still won't pass. The smog station plugged a dongle into the OBDII socket. This thing has red, yellow and green LEDs on it. I did manage to get it to go from red to yellow. But not further. Any advice/ideas? Thanks, A.
So, 1. Readiness monitors not set, or 2. CEL on and code set? OBDII should tell you which monitors aren't set, or what codes are on - more informative than red, yellow, green, though sounds like the readiness monitors aren't getting set from your driving. Did you try to follow the drive cycle instructions from Ferrari? Do a search, they are posted here somewhere...
You are only allow 1 of 7 readiness. I follow Brian's suggestion and drove the car 100 freeway miles with steady 70-75 mph on 6th gear (lower RPM). Steady foot is key.
I am no expert but isn't the dongle that the smog station used just a code reader with data being able to transmit to a smart phone app? Did you actually fail a smog test? If so, what did it fail on? They should be able to see on the smart phone app what is out of range. Do you have a check engine light on? Not that this is your problem but, California is notorious for lowering the acceptable passing ppm numbers that allow a car to pass smog. Good luck, keep us posted to help others who may have this problem in the future.
I have a 2005 430 spider and had same problem after a major service. The monitors were not ready. I recommend driving between 55 and 75 for about 90 miles without a restart . Worked for me. Also use the OBD fusion app before you take in for test it will tell you if the car is ready to pass the emissions test. You'll need the $20 ELM wifi obd 2 socket from Amazon.com.
Thanks for all the inputs. I spoke with the dealer service adviser. He said he has no specific quidance to give other than to drive it a lot under all conditions. I did drive ~100 miles on the freeway just getting back from the dealer post the battery install. That did not do the trick. When I took the car in after the dongle led turned yellow, the mechanic said most of the monitors were set but a couple were still not set (did not say which ones). He did say you can get away with one monitor not set. He also said, based on his OBD read, there's no need to do more freeway driving, nor more stop and go driving. He said just need more on-drive-off cycles. Which I did over a week or so, to no avail. Not sure I understand OBD fusion app and ELM OBD2 socket. I am game to give them a try.
This happened with a Ford GT that was shipped directly to me many years ago for a full Ford racing race exhaust. Car needed to be smogged in CA before customer could register it. Car had 3 miles when it arrived off the truck. Ford/Saleen factory told us run it 100 miles before smogging it. Took 230 miles to set readiness codes. We were all surprised. Keep on driving it.
The hardest monitor to run is the EVAP monitor. Make sure you have more than 1/4 tank and less than 3/4 tank of gas or the monitor will not run. An OBD II scan tool that reads monitors will tell you which monitors have run and which monitors are incomplete. If the monitors say complete and no DTC's are set than the car will pass that part of the smog test. In the shop manual there is a drive cycle that will set all the monitors but its impractical for the street. One last thought go by the dealer who installed the battery and didn't tell you the consequences of battery replacement and have them run the monitor check for free.
The service adviser did say the evap monitor is the hardest one to set. What is the best way to set that? Short drives? I did not know about the 1/4 - 3/4 tank requirement. I was running the last week off a full tank. Maybe that's why it didn't set. Thanks for all the helpful input.
Search for my 5/21/14 post called Emission Testing Question. There are tips in there as well as a PDF from a guy on how to get all monitors on. You plug the ELM into the obd 2 port and the fusion app becomes a scan tool. Works perfectly. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Yes, ECU was reset. Hence the problem. Thanks, I got the pdf re drive cycle for Fcars. Will give it a try. Odd that to set the monitors you have to lug the engine at low rpms!
Yes. But you need the wi-fi one if you have iPhone. You cannot use the bluetooth one with iPhone. I got mine from Amazon for like $20 bucks. The Fusion App is like $10.
try doing the drive cycle and pay particular attention to it. Plan your route out well in advance so you have the proper distances with and without lights/stops so that the drive cycle is done properly. A friend I know, actually ran his on a Dyno to make sure but I think that is ridiculously overboard. For me, it was a nice drive on Foothill/Cathedral Oaks which allowed me the distances required at steady speed. Yeah, you have to do 30 in a 40 zone for 1.5 miles and by the school, you are doing 40 in a 25 zone IF the school is in session, so plan it when La Colina is not in session. I had to do the drive cycle quite a few times when I first got the car, I drove it home 1,100 miles and the monitors were still not set yet. Last time I pulled the battery, the monitors got set with just daily driving, I daily my 360 so about 2 months after I swapped batteries, the monitors were set (I don't know how long it actually took, I didn't check) I am in SB and have a ODB tool that can check that stuff for you if you don't want to keep going to the smog station.
After more driving per advice, Evap and Catalyst monitors still not set. WTF! Need to get one of them to set to pass.
The PDF drive cycle is from the TSB from Ferrari. It left out a couple of important notes. One, it must be followed exactly and two, you must clear codes/monitors before the drive cycle to reset the fuel trims. You do that with a scan tool or disconnecting the battery. Have fun.
I have no issues with on board diagnostics per se. It's a good and obvious idea, and a great diagnostic tool. What I don't get is why swapping out the battery causes a reset and the data in the flash to be wiped clean. That makes zero sense. What other electronic device does that? Surely they can devise a different means to effect a hard reset. I doubt CARB or "the Feds" or some EU agency was guilty of such idiotic design spec.
A tech at my dealer told me when I was worried that he could get the monitors all on and ready to pass if I was unable to do myself. Luckily I did it myself. Maybe you should try that route but it will likely be costly. I feel your pain.
I don't know who came up the design but I do know its that way on EVERY car on the road. My Honda did not pass when I put in a battery the morning of the smog test, luckily the Honda only needed about 5 miles on the freeway to set the monitors. I know your pain, when I purchased my 360, my monitors were off since the seller had put a new battery in and I was new to this, I could not understand the system. I was just dumbfounded that there was no way to force the monitors ON especially the exhaust sniffer was clean and the car passed the sniff test. It may be time to think that something might be wrong with the car as I know the 99 360 (my car) have issues with the monitors but I was not aware the later cars had issues with them, I thought a simple drive was all it took to get them to come on.
Have you tried sacrificing a chicken or goat while driving 68 mph on a twisty road, between 600-1,100 above sea level, with 1/3 tank of gas while raining, with the A/C on?
