Transmission Mount Tool Broke... Now what!

I use long 1/2 inch grade 8 fine thread bolts with grade 8 nuts. Works better and I use them once and throw them away.


How hot was the housing before you tried to remove the mount? Trying to do it cold is a sure recipe for failure. You need to heat it with a rose bud until it is smoking.

 

You can also use a large "C" clamp to push it through.

I have also used a ball joint tool also.

David

 

You will not find 1/2 grade 8 nuts and bolts at Lowes or the hardware store.

 

Those fit very tight. It needs to be pretty hot but move the rose bud around back and forth across the top.

I stopped using the original bolt after the first time I used it. It is a very strong piece but it is coarse thread and makes the job very hard. That's why I went to 1/2 fine.

Find an industrial fastener supplier and get a couple of bolts and nuts but be sure they are both grade 8 or the threads will just peal off.

 

I was surprised the Ricambi part didn't come with fine threads... I was able to use mine fine, but it did take some cranking.

 

The problem with warranty on that part is that it's capable of being broken quite easily if the tool is used incorrectly. I'm not suggesting that is what you did, just that it's difficult to offer warranty on something that can be broken quite easily if misused.

Hill Engineering (the manufactures of your Ricambi part) replaced a couple of their lower ball-joints on warranty for me recently without quibble. They were a mess after only 4k miles.

Good alternative offered by Rifle of course. The main value of the tool is the carefully machined components for drifting out the bush, not the threaded bar. Look at this as a good opportunity to locate a really good nut & bolt shop in your area. I found one locally years ago and I'm a regular there now, always collecting new fasteners & washers in stainless. I'm like a child in sweet shop in that place!

 

Saw the damn thing out. But.. you're only half way there! You have to put the new one in!

When I had my bushing replaced I brought it to my mechanic, and IIRC he sawed the old one out and pressed the new one in. From the pics he sent, it was a BIG bolt used to compress it. He told me he also machined some extra off the new bushing to help it fit. Re: adding a lip.

 

This works Amazon.com: FORGED Steel CLAMP BALL JOINT U Joint C Frame Anchor Pin Press Service Set Kit in Case: Automotive

 

When I did mine, I greased the threads well and slowly applied torque. I think I removed the air box, and loosened cross member over the engine. I also remember raising the trans/engine with a floor jack. The car was on my car lift. I did not use heat on the aluminum, I maybe applied some PB Blaster to help reduce friction. The new mount went in fine.

Good Luck!!!!

 

You were given good advice about getting a fine threaded grade 8 bolt but for some reason you are choosing to ignore that and do the same thing again. Isn't the definition of insanity to keep doing the same thing and expecting a different result? Just go get a proper bolt for a few $ and get on with the show.

 

I would have tried the second tool also. Don't let it get to you. Kudos for doing it yourself! I prob would have tried my ball joint tool before spending the $ on a specialized tool, but that's me. Give Brian's method a try I'm sure he's spot on.


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When I removed mine the centerline was no longer center and the tool wouldn't fit within the transmission mount housing. I ended up breaking the rubber from within the mount which the enabled the tool to line up within the mount housing.

If you cranked on your and the tool was against the housing, then I could understand why it could break.

I would source a high grade fine thread bold/nut and repeat making sure the tool is properly aligned.

 

An Ace or OSH hardware will have the bolts and nuts you need.

 

Well done for getting it out at last. Great advice from Rifle in terms of the right tool for the job with the Grade8 suggestion.

When I installed mine (with far more basic tools) I used a grinder to extend the chamfered edge on the OEM bushing. As stock there's only a lead-in of about 3mm which is very marginal and almost bound to set you up for a less than perfect alignment. I think I extended that edge by at least 10mm, maybe more. The whole unit is about 70mm across so even if the first few mm is slightly less snug than standard the remaining is perfectly tight.

 

Glad you got it sorted.

I would not recommend any use of hammer in the process however. I can see a world of pain in the potential damage. That casting is absolutely not designed to have the bushing hammered into place from the side..

 

To add to the above learning experiences....

Use plenty of lube/anti-seize on the bolt (original or aftermarket)
Heat up the housing (250-275 using a propane/MAP torch was good enough for me)
Put new bushing in the freezer (12 hrs at -2 degrees)
Used hose clamp to center bushing and tool (only have two hands)
Tighten nuts S---L---O---W---L---Y
Double check your alignment when you get the tool to the housing.
Hose clamp can be used to mark new bushing orientation since Sharpie's don't like to write on frozen metal!

Tool worked fine for me but I had a backup plan with a ball joint press.....