430 scud failed emissions

Probably the most common cause for emissions test failure. The OBDII system must have completed all its drive cycle tests to pass many state tests. Some states allow 1 or 2 to remain incomplete and still pass. You may need to check your specific requirements in New York.

 

Yep. Very specific driving can aid in getting them to pass quickly.

 

fuel level should be between 15% and 85%.
1. With the engine cold, start the engine and leave at idle for 4 minutes, without accelerating;
2. Drive the car, normally, without sudden acceleration or frequent gear changes, in 3rd or 4th
gear at 2000-2500 rpm, with the car @ constant speed for at least 6 km (approx 4 miles);
3. Accelerate lightly until 6000rpm, then slow down until 2000rpm without touching brakes or throttle, second or third gear works best, this should be repeated 8X
with no gear changes;
4. Stop the car and leave at idle for 5 minutes, and then turn off the engine;
5. Wait at least 15 minutes;
6. Start the engine and drive normally, again without sudden acceleration or frequently gear
changes for at least 20 minutes.

 

Ah the wonderful readiness codes. This is the absolute dumbest thing on the planet. If the car blows clean, then give me my stupid certificate and take my $. I've gone so far as taking my 430 on a 1000+ mile road trip and the codes were still not all reset. Now I have a dirty carfax

 

Heck I think most of our Ferraris have failed emissions texts on the carfax. I didnt think twice about it on mine, and three others I looked at when shopping had it as well. Nature of the beast with these stupid tests.

 

the new process in CA is two-fold, first is visual inspection then the second is a seemingly straightforward OBDII read out.

i like the new process, easily cheat-able

 

Had the same issue when I bought my car.. Soooo annoying

 

I have the same issue. I had the ECU turned off for some work for the car. Than I got my registration saying I needed to smog it. I've put almost 500 miles on the car now and it still won't show info on the last 2 codes. I've tried that process a few times now. It's almost impossible on California highways to pull that off. I don't get how it will pass the emissions part but the check codes will not make it pass?

 

Mark, in what state are you trying to pass the inspection test?

 

Get an obd2 code reader, plugs in under the dash, drivers side by the central console ... I got a new battery when my F430 was delivered. All but two of the readiness flags set themselves after just two random drives ... the evap and catalyst were the hard ones. The dealer told me to cold start the car and let it idle for 15 minutes (eased it back out of the garage to do so). Drove it for 20 minutes, then shut it down, waited 30 seconds, restarted and let it idle for 5 minutes. That set the catalyst. Never got the evap but most states let you pass with one not set because there are some cars that will never set that flag (certain Toyotas as I recall).

 

Have the same issue, last two code lights won't go out, will take the car out for a drive today, will follow instructions given, will report later, has to be a better way

 

Did the emissions code clear for you ? If so, how did you do it ?

 

I just went through a learning process to clear codes on a 430. there is a post somewhere on this forum with the entire cold start-to-completion process, and these instructions come from that, with added insights gleaned from various ferrari techs and personal experience. hope it is of help.
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The purpose of the OBDII drive cycle is to run all of the onboard diagnostics. The drive cycle should be performed after you have erased any trouble codes from the PCM memory, or after the battery has been disconnected. However, most of the time the car is going to reset itself during normal driving provided that you do a cold start, allow to sit at idle for several minutes, and then put some miles on the car at various speeds and loads (at least 20-30 miles per drive). Fuel tank should be kept filled around 3/4 full throughout the process.

NOTE – If you need to reset the codes with urgency (emissions testing, etc), then follow these steps.

Otherwise, just do the process once, park the car and next cold start just follow Steps 1, 2a, 2b, 2c, and 4b as best you can. Codes should clear within 2-3 cold start cycles under normal driving. A ‘Check Engine Light’ at any time during the process means you have a problem; fix it, reset the PCM memory and start all over. *&%!!%

The OBDII drive cycle MUST begin with a cold start:
- coolant temperature below 122 degrees F
- coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees of one another
- ignition key must not be on prior to the cold start otherwise heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

F-Car Step 1:
Start the cold engine directly from the key ‘off’ position.
With no driver input, let the engine idle with the ECU in full control of the
idle speed for four (4) minutes.
~ OBDII checks oxygen sensor heater circuits, air pump and EVAP purge.

F-Car Step 2a
Accelerate with moderate throttle and shifting into 3rd or 4th gear &
2,000- 2,500 RPM
~ OBDII checks for ignition misfire, fuel trim and canister purge.

F-Car Step 2b
Hold this steady state engine speed in the same gear at 2,000-2,500 RPM
for about 3.5 miles.
~ OBDII monitors EGR, air pump, O2 sensors and canister purge.

F-Car Step 2c
Increase the engine speed at a modest rate to 3,000-4,500 RPM and hold for 10
seconds or a bit more to ensure a steady state condition.
Allow car to decelerate to 2,000 RPM without braking or depressing the clutch.
~ OBDII checks EGR and purge functions.

F-Car Step 3a:
Safely pull over to the side of the road or parking lot with minimal or no gear changes and
certainly without double clutch blipping of the throttle. Declutch to neutral
when the slowing engine speed calls for it.

Let the engine idle with the engine in neutral and with the clutch out at the
side of the road or parking lot. Allow the ECU to fully control idle speed with no driver
input.

For a full 5 minutes, allow the engine to idle in neutral with no driver input.
During this 5 minutes of idling, do not change the engine loading by switching
on any accessories (like the A/C).

F-Car Step 3b:
Switch the engine and key fully off after the 5 minute idle.
Keep the key in the off position for 15 to 20 seconds.

F-Car Step 4a:
Restart the car and drive it at a moderate acceleration back up to 3rd or
4th in the 2,500 to 3,500 RPM range (i.e.: “normal driving&#8221.
~ OBDII checks misfire, fuel trim and purge again.

F-Car Step 4b:
Continue to drive for at least 15 minutes with the car under this steady
state condition (2,500 to 3,500 RPM), such as Interstate highway driving.
~ OBDII monitors catalytic converter efficiency, misfire, EGR, fuel trim,
oxygen sensors and purge functions.

F-Car Step 5:
From about 4000 RPM, allow car to decelerate and safely pull over to the side of the road or parking lot with minimal or no gear changes and without any double clutch blipping of the throttle. As appropriate, keep the engine in gear as you de-accelerate.
~ OBDII makes a final check of EGR and canister purge.

Check readiness codes w/ OBDII scanner.
A good scanner can be found on Amazon –
Vgate VS600 OBD2 Scanner Diagnostic

You must check both engine banks, as there are two units to reset.
Reset items are found in the I/M Readiness Menu within the OBD device.
An INC indicates that item has not reset yet.
It is very unlikely you will reset all the codes on first drive.

Park car for overnight cool down. Repeat Steps 1, 2a, 2b, 2c and go to Step 4b without the Step 3 stopping, restarting. Repeat Step 5.

If not all clear, continue with overnight cool down, Repeat Steps 1, 2a, 2b, 2c and go to Step 4b without the Step 3 stopping, restarting. Repeat Step 5 and check codes.

If you have not cleared the codes yet, but no CEL showing, you just need to keep doing Step 1 and putting miles on the car. As long as there is no CEL lit, you are making progress!

NOTES –
1. if O2's not certain functioning at 100%, just replace them.
You need to use Ferrari 02’s not aftermarket, for best compatibility with rest of diagnostic system.
2. if non-OEM headers or cats, install these mini-cats from daddies garage on rear O2's only:
<title>O2 Simulator Mini Cat Cel Fix best oxygen sensor simulator made.

 

I have an Actron code reader and theres a "State OBD Check" and "I/M Monitors" function that will show you which monitors are ok and which are still in the not ready state. I always run a scan myself before going for an emissions check.