One year update / Maintenance review / Questions

I have read here that as the clutch reaches the last of it's usefulness they wear faster. Good thing is that once you do it you should be good for the next 15+ years.

I don't understand the brake estimate. If only the pads are worn then you can replace them yourself for a few hundred. Brakes are simple, they are that way for a reason. They need to work, everytime!

The rest looks like regular dealer pricing to me. If you drive like a mature person you may be able to go a little farther with the belt change interval. Some guys go 4 or 5 years between changes.

 

RIP OFF. Brakes at $3,400??? I did mine myself (just alike a Toyota truck) and replaced the brake fluid for about $450. Very easy to do.

Clutch cost me $3,800 (at the dealership).

I see you are in CA, and the cost of living is more expensive than North Carolina, but those prices are high.

 

Totally agree with you. Seems like the only way to beat the stench of that is to be a long term owner and learn how to do the basics yourself and then take the hit at the dealer when you absolutely have to. Then it seems to pencil out better. Couple of grand would get you a nice lift in your garage if you have the space. That's my problem, I don't have the space...yet!

 

Brakes are what struck me as strange as well. I'd like to see that "brake" down. Seems like expensive for a clutch at an indy as well, but that's less informed.

 

The comments about the TO bearing and position sensor are correct. $10K isn't uncommon and don't worry, the overestimate on the brakes will be eaten up by something else. In reality, you can expect to get an 8k-10K bill every 3-5 years (averaging around 3K per year). The ones in between are much less so it balances out.

 

Kevin (post number 5) is correct. Part of the fun is learning about the car and how it operates and how to fix minor things.

The (ahem) mistake on the brake quote is a serious red flag. Seems to me he was seeing how uninformed you may be allowing him to make a quick hustle.

You really do need to start learning about the car and how to work on it or you will be constantly opening your wallet.

Here is an example. Suddenly your car starts misfiring. You bring it to the mechanic and he starts throwing parts at it. First new Coils (still misfires), then new plugs (still misfires), then he replaces both MAFS and finally the car runs the way it should.

Now if you took the time to read the numerous posts about misfires, you get a code reader (which you should have anyway) and read which cylinders were misfiring. Then switch the mafs from one side to the other and see if the misfires changes sides. Then you would go on EBAY and purchase a Bosch MAF out of Germany (4 day delivery for $189) and replace the bad MAF. You just saved yourself several thousand dollars and learned a lot about your car.

 

I just took delivery of a 2000 360 with full history. I went through all the receipts yesterday and the grand total is running about $5k/yr. Your car seems right in line with that figure.

Regarding the code reader mentioned above. What is the part and where can I get one? Thanks.

 

Bear in mind also that if you were to move the car on (to someone who checks in out properly) it's value will be determined by the works which will shortly require doing. On that basis you may as well bite the bullet and enjoy the car.

 

$1650 for belts (every three year item) is low and really a very small amount for annual costs.

$5000 for a clutch is for the minimal clutch job. Goes up to $10,000 if fly wheel, yada yada. Even with F1, you are 20,000 miles most likely, so the "annual cost" will depend upon your mileage.

$800 for "some fluids" and $1800 for "all fluids and filters" is the range for "annual service" that I've incurred and seen from others.

Tires.

etc etc

360 is a pretty "reasonable" (i know, i know) ferrari to maintain...

Now F1 problems...ugh...some (many?) folks are starting to (properly?) think of these as wear items...

 

Every time I hear these numbers, I'm so glad I grew up broke and learned to do my own work.

Every Ferrari I have had has been very reliable and the service work pretty straight forward. All cars have their quirks in engineering. With Ferrari it helps if you can reason in Italian!

In the 5 years that I have had the CS, its just been fluids, filters, belts, bearings and some garage time.

The worst was figuring out that the clutch position sensor had gone, and then the gymnastics to replace it. There was also a hot start issue and charging issue that I narrowed down to a couple of relays that once the parts were cross referenced cost less than $10 each.

These cars don't have to cost a fortune to maintain or service. But I think some carry that as a badge of honor. I would rather have a track day!

 

I use Randy and the team at RMT for all of my cars. Superb work at great prices. I did my own four wheel brake job back in 2011, and then the parts alone were over 2000.00 including discount. Randy gave me the pointers to do the job myself, right. BTW when it comes to brakes, do replace the rear e-brake pads with factory Brembo. They alone are almost 600.00. I have included the invoicing from Ricambi to make my point. To come here and discuss "ballpark" figures is not right. Maybe since he worked on your car, your car need other items like brake lines, hold down kits, etc..

I also included a copy of a dealer flyer, notice the circled fine print.

As to the 450.00 brake job, hat was in no way anything more that a swap of pads and fluid.
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+1 for Randy and RMT being a great and honest independent shop.

When you find an honest mechanic, it is like striking gold, especially in the expensive realm of exotics and European marques.

I have found his quick mental estimates to be conservative, he clearly communicates, he tries not to cut corners unless the customer requests it, and he doesn't bait and switch. On top of all that he lets you use your own parts! Thus I find there are "no surprises" when the bill comes along.

Just my unsolicited opinion as I hate to see him being bad mouthed by people (not the original poster) who haven't actually worked with him before...

 

I was perturbed by the rip off, red flag, and quick hustle comments. Just because you swap a set of pads does not equate to a full brake job.

 

If you don't mind "tinkering" on your car, you can replace pads at all four corners (assuming the rotors and e-brakes are fine) for one-tenth of that cost, with a little sweat equity.

The pads are super easy to change on four-piston Brembo calipers. It will take you longer to jack up the car and remove the wheel, than it will to replace the pads, thanks to two pins on each caliper which hold the pads in place.

I personally like Porterfield R-4S pads and have used them in the Brembos on my NSX, E550, 435 and 360.

 

HA!....sage advice and just look at his avatar!!! Nice.

 

Do your rotors have grooves, discoloration due to hot spots, are rubber brake lines in good shape, do the e-brake pads have life left in them. Even if the e-brake pads do have life left in them, but the rotors are grooved, you will need to replace them as well.