Anyone know if I can download a workshop manual for a early carburettor 400GT manual from anywhere? Thanks, Ray.
Ray Do you have or need a parts CD for an early 400 (carbs)? I have one and it has both tranny's (bot not the PF body parts). PM me if you need it. Ken
Thanks for the offer Ken - what I am after is something that tells me how to dis-assemble the interior so I don't damage it. Regards, Ray.
Hi Ray F I have a 400i workshop manual as a series of PDFs. They never made a 365 or 400 manual. Unfortunately it is a technical manual won't tell you how to dismantle the interior. Even the Pininfarina body parts manual is very vague with the exploded diagram. You could look e my site at www.400register.com and in particular the pictures at http://www.400register.com/register/21557/21557-picturetopics.asp If you need anything specific let me know, but it is all straightforward. I've attached a description of how to remove the dashboard. Good luck, go slowly and be careful Image Unavailable, Please Login
Simon, thanks for your help. i am particularly interested in removing the door trims and replacing my window glass and motors without causing any damage. Is that on your site? Best Regards, Ray.
Removing the door panels is easy. There are a couple of screws at the bottom of the door panel. A couple more under the arm rest. The bezel around the door handle slides forward to remove it. The panel lifts up just a bit then off she comes.
does anyone know from experience if, once the hardware/rails/brackets are removed, the front seats are switchable so that the wear can be 'shared' . brett
Thanks Dave. After getting the door panel off, is it relatively straightforward to replace the door window? Regards, Ray.
Door panel is reasonably easy. I ma doing this from memory so take it with easy as you go. There is a screw or something that holds the armrest arm pad in place - remove this, Then hit arm rest pad toward rear of the car, it usually feels stuck as the leather pieces stick together but it will move. Then there are two 10mm bolts holding the arm rest. Next slide the chrome trim piece down the armrest 'upward pointing' arm and there is another screw or bolt there. A couple of screws around door latch chrome at rear of door. Screws on speaker grill. one small screw behind aluminum interior door handle. You may find some screws directly through the leather at the front lower corner, some owners have put these in on a lot of cars. The panel is basically free now. You need to lever the edges of the panel horizontally away from the door frame as there are a number of plastic push-in clips holding it in place. When all of these are free (they usually break) then hit the bottom of the door panel vertically upwards and the panel will come free. Next go and buy lots of the plastic clips from Ferrari - I searched everywhere for these but the only ones that fitted came from Ferrari. They are cheap (10c each). I think the door takes ten - buy 40 or 50. They break easily even when replacing them. Next remove the plastic membrane, If this sis missing replace it as it stops moisture from entering the car. Italian waterproofing is not great. Just buy some clear polythene sheet such as the builder's floor membrane that they put under concrete from builders merchant. The rest is pretty obvious. Hold the window up if you remove cables with a couple of wedges to stop it dropping. The motor is awkward to get to but not impossible. Th ewire is a pain to refit - I have a diagram if you get lost - but just draw it on paper carefully before you start work. The motors are usually slow and will speed up considerably if you clean out the old solid grease from the gearboxes. Finally clean out all the crud from the bottom of the doors and make sure the drain holes are clear. I actually drilled a couple more in my doors. Then coat the inside of the door (not the window operating wires) in Waxoyl. Just email of PM me if you need any further info.
I have disassembled both seats. The cushions are attached to the pans with 4 flexible steel straps that are fed thru 4 corresponding slots. The cushions are interchangeable. If you happen to break off one of the straps, just pull the cushion into position by placing a straight blade screw driver thru the slot in the cover and into the slot the strap would project from. Drill the reinforcement for the cover with an 1/8" drill bit and thru the pan also. Then connect the two with an aluminum 1/8" pop rivet. The seats in my car had to use this process as the straps metal fatigue easily. They weren't meant to be repeatedly bent. If that isn't "original' enough, new straps could be tack welded to the spring assembly. I only mention this because the straps are a weak link in swapping the cushions. I'm sure there are more than a few that have had this done.
