400i engine and transmission removal.

Just unbolt and lift it out. It might be easier to remove engine separately.

 

You didn't mention whether you had the front hood/bonnet off, that makes thinks a whole lot easier along with rad. out of the way.

 

If you plan on removing engine & transmission I would start with the diff & torque tube. The whole lot needs to move back anyway to allow the engine to be separated from the transmission. Remove diff & torque tube, remove transmission & then engine will lift straight out.

Cheers,
Al
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When you do get around to it, could you do a photographic record?

 

Not exactly a project for the faint of heart!

 

Al and Yokie

The engine can be separated from the tranny without pulling back and separating the diff and torque tube. But to get the tranny out Al is right the diff and torque tube have to go back about 50 mm; manual is clear on that procedure. (mine is an auto but don't think manual is different in this respect.

I did not remove my engine alone but shop did (had to) to change the freakin' chain tensioner all because of lousy engineering for the tensioner pivot! With a slight redesign of the pivot the tensioner could have been changed in 10 minutes longer time than doing the chain alone. I vent whenever I get a chance about that one.
Ken

 

Also.. Just to reiterate the obvious...Mark it, and mark it very accurately, or you will hate life upon re-install. Measure with a tape and not by eyeball. I hope that this is of some help to someone.
Thank you. Jq.

 

Hi Ken,

Do You mean the actual cam chain tensioner ? I had that out for inspection when I checked the chain and timing. Awkward,yes but I never moved the engine.

 

Arvid
Yes, I mean the tensioner. Here is what I saw and know on my 400i Series 2. The tensioner pivots on a 'step stud'. In other words the pivot is threaded into the block and the pivot area is smooth same OD as stud. Then it steps down to a smooth portion that extends into the timing cover and I believe the hole in the timing cover is sealed with an o-ring or copper washer. So in order to remove the tensioner, the timing cover has to be removed from front of motor or at least have a big enough gap to get the tensioner off of the pivot. The shop I was at tried in vane for a day or two to get the cover off by raising motor off mounts and other wiggling and rocking. They could not get it off. This led to adding about $8K to the job cost. Once the motor was out we did all the seals and gaskets and shop took liberties to change a few more things that "ought to be done while motor was out".

So Arvid, please with as much detail as you can tell me how you changed the tensioner with the motor in the car! I don't need a nuts and bolts description, just what was removed in what order and how eventually the tensioner came out of the gap, Did you remove the pivot point from the block, if so,how? I hope you have a good story for me to hit the shop over the head with.

In the end, having spent 3 times more than planned I have a nearly leak free 400 motor!
Ken

 

Ken,

I'm sorry if I misled You. I was too quick on the draw... I had the outer plate and tensioner screw out - not the actual tensioner. That one is as you say attatched inside the cover.

I'll step down the pace and read more carefully next time

Arvid

 

Arvid
Thanks for clarifying. I still feel the pain of the bill.
Ken

 

Can you get a photo?

 

They will come out without going through the console. It is a *****, but you can get them.

.
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This is a picture from inside the car with the console & cover plate removed.

Cheers,
Al
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I've not done this job but it reminds me of accessing difficult trans to bell housing bolts close to the firewall.
Judging by these photos I have a suggestion.
My method for the above scenario is what I like to call a "long distance dedication", very long extensions (1/2" drive preferred) a wobble type if needed at the socket (universals tend to cause problems) and no power tools as the long extensions will absorb the torque of even the strongest impact. Be prepared for when tight fasteners break loose, a lot of the energy you put into it is used to wind up the extension shaft, sometimes a quarter turn's worth. It gets your attention when it finally breaks free.

 

Agree, might be case of with breaking out the 'specials tools'! A crows foot spanner might work

 

Yes they are tough but possible and coming from top is not the way.

If you have not already, remove the tanny mount; that allows the trans to drop a bit for more knuckle room

I know I made two trips to Sears for more tools. They have short stubby combo wrenches now with ratcheting box. I also use a long extension on ratchet with a swivel socket (not a socket on a swivel). Each bolt used a different combination of wrenches.

No Honda (or Chevy) would ever have such a set up!! This is designed in torture by the factory; they did it deliberately. We'll teach those Americans to drive Autos!
Ken

 

This all looks like a lot of fun.

 

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YorkieV12,

Did you ever fit the 4 speed box? If so how did it turn out and what Changes did you have to do?

Kind regards
//Rob