1992-1998 Ferrari 456GT and 456GTA Stereo Guide (iPod and more)

Ok, it's taken me a while (busy working on a project with some tight deadlines), but here is my findings that I want to share with everyone. Those that followed the other thread re: the Azzurro Monaco 456GT know I wanted to add an iPod to the factory stereo. You can read about the mess that was in the car before I got to it in the other thread.

This thread is applicable to 456 GT/GTA models in the 1992-1998 range. Those with "M" model cars (1999 and newer), you have more options such as the Becker head unit replacement.

Now, this guide is purely for those that want to keep the stock head unit in place. Yes, some other 456GT/A owners have managed to have the entire remote set-up replaced with a brand new full DIN head unit in place of the stock Ferrari/Sony unit. There are very few cars where owners have spent the money (and it is substantial) to modify the center tunnel to accommodate a full head unit. I looked into it, and it would require major work, and thus not economically viable. Additionally, before I hear "you should be listening to the engine!" comments, the stock motor is too quiet, quieter in my opinion than my Mondial t. So until I equip it with a Tubi and perhaps test pipes, I need more, and thus another reason for this guide. Besides, those with significant others find the engine a distraction and not a symphony like enthusiasts here.

But for owners that want to add iPod, new CD changers, other MP3 players, etc. I hope my information is useful for you.

Here are my findings...

For starters, why Ferrari went with this set up is beyond me. The stock stereo consists of the following:

- XTC-F10 stereo head unit with tethered remote face plate
- CDX-F10 10 disc CD changer
- XM-F10 2 channel amplifier, 30 watts x 2 channels

Amplifier and Speaker Additions

The world of replacement amplifiers and changers is extensive from many manufacturers, but I am focusing on the least intrusive as I saw it. The stock stereo only supports two channels, which are in the front with door panel mid-range speakers, and tweeters located on the dash board under the air vents on the topside. If you want to keep this stock, jump to the next section...

For a suitable amplifier that fits in the stock space, I recommend the Sony XM-4S which is a 4 channel amplifier, 50 watts x 4 channels. This unit has plenty of power to drive the existing speakers as well as additional speakers. In my car, there are mid-range speakers located under both passenger seats firing forward towards the backs of the driver/front passenger seats. They are concealed by the carpet, yet produce reasonable bass. The last owner equipped the rear pillars over the rear shelf with tweeters for the high frequency sounds. It looks pretty good, almost stock, and the speakers behind the carpet you wouldn't notice are there.

I do not have speaker model numbers or recommendations at this time - given that some work is required to equip the rear areas with speakers, you can add what you think will look and sound satisfactory.

But the Sony amplifier fits in the place of the old amplifier, requiring drilling two holes at the bottom of the audio bracket to secure it. The wiring diagram is basically the same as the wiring going into the old XM-F10 amplifier. However, the connector on the XM-4S is different, so you would need to splice wires accordingly (color coding is the same). Because my wiring was trashed from the installer who did the original modifications, I'm running just power and accessory (turns on the amp) direct to the amplifier, and audio is supplied from the pre-amp outputs of the head unit (using both front/rear outputs).

Everything is working fine, I have good power, no distortion, and I'm satisfied.

CD and Minidisc Changers

Did your CD changer die? Giving you issues? Don't want to replace it with another $1400 Ferrari branded unit? In my tests, I tried a few Sony CD Changers that have analog audio out and Unilink controls, and the XTC-F10 head unit recognized, played back music, and controlled every one of them. Now I don't have the funds (or time) to try out every Sony Unilink CD changer on the market, but I think it's a sure thing any of them will work. Stay away from the FM Modulated versions though, they will not work.

Have a Minidisc collection? A Minidisc changer with Unilink control should work fine as well.

Additionally, I've noticed that the few Sony CD changers I've looked at had the same control locations (where Unilink cable and analog audio output cables plug into) as well as same installation locations (screw mounts). So swapping changers should be simple and straight forward.

Auxiliary Input - iPod and other Audio Devices

This is (in my opinion) the big one - iPod and other mobile devices are very popular, and my findings were as such.

For starters this will require a bit of work to implement if you want to do it the way I am doing it. How is this? I'm running a minijack (headphone style connector) to a left/right analog audio break out cable from the ashtray in the center console all the way to the head unit. This would require some disassembly of the center console and rear seat to run the cable, but this is at your discretion. It's hard finding a cable long enough (you need about 10 feet) so running an extension cable to a breakout cable is what I needed to do initially. I will find a smaller cable and report back.

Now, once you do this, you have three (3) options as I see it:

1. Leave the Unilink control plugged into your CD changer, but instead of the audio cables running from the CD changer to the head unit, you run the cables of your new auxiliary device/cable;

2. Buy one of those Auxiliary input adapters that tells your head unit the CD changer is on/connected, but plays audio from your auxiliary device;

3. Buy a Sony XA-300 Auxiliary input adapter.

Numbers one and two are for all intents and purposes the same thing. Unless you don't want the CD changer any longer, you can either leave it in place and save yourself $30. Or you can spend $30 (or $70 for another kit I will link) for a cable that tells your XTC-F10 that the CD changer is connected when it isn't. I can see opting for that route if you see yourself removing the CD changer completely.

The XA-300 is what I elected for, as I wanted the option of listening to CDs if I'm on a road trip (and buy music but don't have time to connect my iPod to a PC and update it). What does the XA-300 bring to the table? A lot.

For $99 retail this unit not only allows you to keep the CD changer, it gives you (technically) 3 Auxiliary inputs: 2 analog inputs (one has a headphone jack if you want to listen on headphones from the trunk - WTF...), and one USB input. The USB input would allow you to connect a PC or other audio device that can output audio via USB connection.

How does this work with the stock unit? It's very simple -

- Plug the CD Unilink changer control cable and analog audio cables into the XA-300;
- Plug the Unilink cable (provided with XA-300) to the XTC-F10;
- Plug additional (in my case, iPod to Aux-1 input) cables in for other audio devices;

That's it! There's no other cables (power or otherwise) to plug into this unit. Installing the XA-300 (depending on how you want things hooked up, where placed, etc) is a matter of minutes.

"But Brian, how do I access the audio from these inputs?" Quite simple - you keep pressing the "CD" button on the head unit, and it will display "CD, AUX-1, AUX-2, USB" in that order as you press the CD button. The bite in the ass is the XTC-F10 supports a separate AUX input. In fact, on the controller face, the black button (non-functional) in the lower right corner, if you shine a light on it, it even says "AUX". Why Sony chose to not put a minijack adapter or even make the "AUX" button functional (and add input on the head unit) is beyond me.

Now, you can see from my photos that I have an iPod classic. This has been replaced, but I haven't played with the new one yet - a 3rd Generation iPod Nano (the short squat and fat one). Because the headphone jack is on the bottom of the unit, I am going to attach the Nano via velcro to the inner ash tray lid, have the ash tray fabricated into some other kind of holder, and run the cable to the headphone jack underneath. Then, when I'm not using the iPod, I can close the ash tray lid, and it's instantly hidden. This method will not charge the unit, nor allow control of the iPod via the Ferrari head unit (i.e. change songs, etc. - that's still done via the iPod).

With the auxiliary method, you can essentially plug anything into it with a head phone jack. I may get a portable Sirius receiver. The options are pretty much unlimited. And it allows you to keep the stock head unit.

For those wanting a Bluetooth option, I haven't started researching those yet. But I do see minijack Bluetooth auxiliary adapters, so just adding the appropriate cable to the XA-300 should allow most devices to work.

An equipment recap (followed by pictures):

STOCK EQUIPMENT - ALL OEM SONY

- XTC-F10 head unit
- CDX-F10 CD changer
- XM-F10 2 channel amplifier

OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT

- Sony XA-300 auxiliary input adapter (~ $99)
- Sony CD/MD changer with Unilink control and analog audio outputs (~ prices vary)
- Monster iCable 7 foot iPod cable ($24)
- PAC-10 CD changer adapter (tells Sony receiver CD changer is present, replaces CD changer altogether) (~$29 on Amazon.com)
- Direct Audio input iPod Unilink adapter (~$70 on Amazon.com)
- Sony XM-4S amplifier (~$180)

You don't need all of the equipment above, but it's here for your reference.

Hope this helps for starters. I'm sure I'll modify this thread accordingly and welcome other comments and opinions.

 

LOL - and yes, I know, my car still needs brakes! And to rebend the front grill (argh).

 

Working on it - and I'll see what I can do about my schedule next few days to come and help...maybe Saturday or Sunday.

 

Depends. If you want full control of your iPod, you need your iPod in the front near you. Otherwise, if you're content putting your iPod on shuffle mode, then no, you can just buy a simple minijack-analog splitter cable, and just leave your iPod in the trunk (or create a clean mounting solution).

The XA-300 hooks into the head unit (which is actually in the trunk - the faceplate/controls in the cabin is really a tethered remote) via Unilink cable.

Just to be clear - the XA-300 allows you to plug *any* analog audio into it, and control volume and input via the controller in the cabin. It does not allow full control over any device (iPod) other than a Unilink device. Sony does make a iPod Unilink device controller, the XA110ip, but it's advertised for 2006 and newer stereos. It's about $15, all you'd have to do is disconnect the cables from your CD changer and plug it in and try it if you wanted to give it a go.

But I have a minijack cable run through the center tunnel so I can change devices (portable Sirius radio, iPod, anything with a headphone jack.

You don't have to run anything up to the cockpit - but then you'd not have any control (change songs, etc).

Just to be clear: the XA-300 gives you additional inputs without removing functionality of the CD changer, while keeping your stereo stock. It doesn't provide any additional controls.