456 window problem update

That sounds promising for this widespread issue. Can you give some more detail on what you have actually used, e.g. the regulators?

 

My windows were fixed by Craig Nelson (Monza456) owner of the Jag Shop in Portland. It was not nearly as expensive as the factory fix and, two years on, no leaks or wind whistle.

 

The regulators have a design flaw in that an aluminum part is used at the intersection of the "scissor arms" that engage the window to transfer the motion imparted by the motor to the mechanism to raise and lower it. In the picture below, the upper regulator (passenger side) is placed so you can see the area in question. A black sticker has been placed over the offending area by the company that did the repair - they were mentioned earlier in this thread.
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I should also say that this was not all my driver window needed to solve its problems. Both guides for the window to the channel, at the front and back had issues with the plastic runner and the rubber gaskets - shown as items 4 and 29, respectively.

I was actually shocked by how poorly the window designs are on this car - too bad really...
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I heard several times on here that the problem is mostly related to the 456 and not the 456M, is this true?

Is the problem completely fixed on the M or is it only better?

The part numbers for the lifting device is different between the 456 and the 456M so I assume they changed it due to the problem.

Did anyone with an M here have had to fix the window issue?

 

The M has the problem, but, apparently, not as acute. I had a driver's side door gap of around 1/8" causing wind noise and water coming in during car washes, before it was fixed.

 

Was it an expensive fix or did you just fill the gap?

Is the problem in the same area (the scissor)?

 

I am not sure I follow your solution from F1 Imports:

- Did you send them your old regulators and they inserted the SS pin?
- Or do they make an aftermarket better product over the scissor problem that OEM mfgrs?

and can you give a ball park figure on the cost. I just replaced one side's entire regulator with a NOS[salvaged one] and my problem is almost entirely gone, albeit I'll probably have to revisit it some years down the road.

 

It was not very expensive, but you can send a PM to Monza 456 or call Craig at the Jag Shop at 503-731-9919 and he'll do a much better job of describing how he approached the problem and the cost.

 

Could you explain what they offer and how they repair it?

Can I "send in" my old regulator?

Thanks

 

That is a bargain. NOS regulator, and I was pleased to even find one was approximately that price alone. Fixing what I have is much better.

thanks for the info. Will pass it along.

 

Just curious, has anyone attempted or considered replacing this scissor pin with a steel bolt and lock nut?

I know there may be clearance issues, but could the replacement pin be ground down?

I've done something like this before on other cars, but haven't removed the door panel to look at the F-car configuration. Also, any tips/pics on door panel removal? I usually break at least one of the snaps when doing this for the first time.

Thanks and Regards....Mark in Houston....

 

First step is to remove the arm rest pad - this is done from the underside of the armrest
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Next step is to remove the window switches. A firm pull straight away from the armrest mount will remove it. The red connector is the one for the passenger side switch
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My preference is to remove the pull rod from the door opening lever. It will make the next step easier.
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The next step is to remove the arm rest. The first part is to hold up the door opening lever and remove the allen head cap screw underneath.
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You can then find the bolt underneath and remove this next. This is then followed by the one toward the rear of the arm rest. There is a hook at the top of the arm rest. Once the bolts are removed, pull the back outward and back to disengage the hook from the upper part of the door panel.
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There are three phillips head screws at the bottom of the door panel - remove these now - I do not have a picture of this. Next you remove the two 10mm nuts from the studs in the following two pictures. Once this is done, pull the bottom of the panel away from the door and once the studs clear the door panel frame, you can pull the door panel down to disengage the upper tabs and the removal is complete. Be aware that the door window/door lock computer is mounted to the door panel and will need to be supported to ensure you don't put undue pressure on the wire harness. I like to put the door panel into the door frame of the car as if the door is shut to support the door panel and the wires will make the jump with no issue.

The last picture shows the computer in a bag - I saw the first of these waterlogged and wished not to repeat the process after paying the price for a new one...
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Thanks Dean:

That is better than I'd hoped for.

Any thoughts on replacing the scissor pin, or is F1 Imports the smartest option?.......Anyone?

 

Mark- No failures reported with the F1 Imports option, and a full adjustment range is then available. Can probably be done another way, but why reinvent the wheel unless you can figure out a way to do it much more cheaply? Have heard conflicting reports on F1 selling just the pins, so might be worthwhile asking.

 

I messed around with mine before I knew of the option of having them updated and frankly it isn't worth the time. For the price and knowing the cost of a new regulator (and the fact that in two years you will be in the same boat anyway - ask me how I know) it's better to just go the F1 route.

 

PM Sent. BTW: I would not recommend pulling off the pull rods to the door handle, or at leaset you have better mark those screw setting very carefully...IMO you'll be spending a lot of time re-calibrating them again if not done with marking.