Ferrari 550 Original Height?

I wish somebody would measure the height from the ground to the fender lip, both front and rear. Also need to know tire size and wheel size.
I'll be happy to send my info also.

 

My 550 is stock height with stock wheels and tire sizes. Measuring from the ground to the fender lip across the center of the wheel, I get 26 3/8" front and 27 1/4" rear.

 

None of these cars is square like a mass produced chevy. Even chevy has you measure the ride height like Ferrari from known chassis points. Please do it the right way RTOM! Rideheight effects your handling and bad rideheights can encourage crashes and loss of control.

 

Things like the amount of fuel in the tank will also change things. I'm sure there are height specifications/dimensions with the car on a rack with weight in the seats and a certain level of fuel in the tank.

 

FBB, I'm in the middle of the ride height, 4 wheel align project. I changed from Pirelli to Michelin tires. The Michelins are 12 mm (24mm total) taller.
I'm just curious as to where my car might be as we haven't started the full setup project yet.
When I bought the car I had no clue where it stood in ride height. I have the factory numbers to which I'll have to add the taller tire adjustment factor. I figure if it ends up higher but maintained to rake ratio, I'm happy.
I have the Novitek NF 2 , 19", 255,35 Front, 345,30 Rear.
As it sits now : Front 26 5/8, Rear 28 1/4. (Mink's numbers 26 3/8, 27 1/4)
Looks like I'm close in the front and too high in the rear.
After the grand alignment project is finished, I'll report the final numbers.

 

John, i am sure you umderstand that Ferrari has you measuring from the innermost lower control arm pick up points "fanblocs" and the measurement to the top of the wheel arch arcs is just that, a measurement, rather than a set up point.

The specs for the ride heights is in the Technical thread sticky.

Philip

 

Philip- Correct. Ride height is measured from the center of the rear flanblock bolt for the front suspension and from the front flanblock bolt center for the rear suspension. For those who do not have it, download the 550 WSM from ferraridatabase.com for the specs. Any measurement using the body is worthless.

 

I wish I was small enough to get under to measure the ride height. During our alignment project height will be done as per the book.
Now I'm just curious as to where we might be as I bought the car used.
If anybody know an easy way to measure from the 'flan block" please let me know. I'm sure my race car guys will build something. It's just hard to find a "floor" to measure from when the car has to be in the air on a ramp lift to gain access to the blocks.

 

John- Take her to a good alignment shop and just ask them to measure ride height using the drawing in the WSM. They have alignment racks making it easy.

 

If you have a lift it's not difficult to measure the ride height but you do need to make sure the car is level and, as you note, have the floors removed. Note the weight spec too in the WSM. I may be mis-recalling, but doesn't the WSM have the specs for the lower collar to bolt center on the lower shock eyelet?

The difficulty is changing the ride height when the springs are under tension, which they will be even at full droop. It is hard to adjust the collars on the car. Possible (maybe) to wind them out a bit, but impossible to tighten (= raise the ride height) without removing the shocks from the car. So, you measure ride height, calc the adjustment needed, remove the shocks, set the height using the collars on the bench (spring compressor), refit, move the car around, measure the ride height again...

Then, set the alignment to the specs. Gets a bit time intensive (expensive) if you are having someone else do it.

Philip

 

I race a Spec Racer in SCCA. We do a lot of ride height adjustments. Most of the time no measurements are used, just up or down a turn or 2 on the shocks.
On the 550, hard part (I think) is trying to hit a measured distance. I'll let you know how we do.

 

OK...then you know what ride height can do so no need giving you the cautions. You never know who you are talking to sometimes. Anyway, even if the wheel/tire is taller I would set the RH factory even if that changed the relationship of the look at the wheel wells. Then reset the alignment or get close with laser level and some tape measures and a level floor at home. Drive the car and see how it reacts and adjust accordingly.

 

My plan is to set to the factory numbers. I have installed the 25 mm rear wheel spacers on the NF 2's. Where I'm a little fuzzy is: as the Michelins are 24mm taller (12 mm) axle to fender well I think I should try and use the factory numbers and see if the tire will rub on the fender well.
For some reason my car didn't have the spacers fitted, but the Pirelli (old tires) didn't rub the fender well. After swapping to the Michelin (12 mm) taller the tire was too close for a simple turn. So, until I could add the spacers and at least be able to drive the car home from the tire dealer, we raised the rear height 3 turns on the shock. That solved 90 % of the rubbing, no spacers.
I have now added the spacers and left the 3 shock turn in place for the moment. With the spacers added the rub issue is gone.
The simple fix now would be be to just lower the rear turn by turn until it got to minus the 3 we added or down more until the rub returns. Lets say 2 turns was the best number, then measure and compare with the factory numbers. I think if it's close to the 12 mm tire added height, balance shocks both sides and then see how close to the factory spec.
Once the rear is complete, then adjust the front to maintain the factory rake.
Sure sounds simple. I think the plan and sequence is proper, just need good measuring tools and if it was a race car wish, do the final set was scales.
I'll be real happy if we get close.
I never thought buying a new set of tires would be so involved.
As this is my 50 th year with Ferrari, I should have know. I do know I'd not give back all the years.
I do remember in 1964, Tampa Fl.,no owners manual for a Lusso, no parts, and maybe Luigi might answer the phone if he was in a good mood. All of us have come a long way. Not sure I'm ready to open up a 599 gearbox.

 

John- You already know this probably, but every time you change ride height, you also change camber and toe. No big deal since Maranellos have eccentrics for camber adjustment instead of shims.

 

John,

Your plan sounds fine. I'm a 100% DIY racecar included. So to do my alignment my tools are a bucket, aquarium tube,ruler, 1/8" flooring tile to get the floor flat. Then toe plates, scales, "L" ruler cut to fit wheels, 2 tapes, laser level with pointer. It is stupid simple and works dead nuts. It is cheap except the scales a 1000 bucks but if you race alot you gotta have them. Listen to Taz's warning I'm not sure how much the rear Toe changes for each CM of rear wheel travel but as you know rear toe out of wack can really hurt you.

 

fatbillybob,

Any chance you could teach us how step by step, or know of a link that does. I'm a DIY but have never learned how to properly do a home garage 4 wheel alignment on my 550 and sure would like to. I don't have scales but could I get it fairly close with just measurements for everyday street use?

 

Yes one of these days.

Yes and it would not be close. It would be dead nuts perfect and probably better than the alignment shop who has not calibrated there laser machine or ensured a dead flat level floor.

 

Wow! That would be so cool! My 550 appears to have been lowered in the back by some previous owner. Not sure why, but I haven't reset it back to the stock height as I was afraid I'd mess up the other settings. Dead nuts perfect should be adequate.

 

(Small changes in) Alignment and tire choices have a major impact on the feel of a car. I had a 308 I tracked extensively. After setting chassis rake, corner weighting, sorting out the alignment, the car was very sensitive to steering input in high speed (>100mph) cornering. Too sensitive. Dropping the rear by 1/2-inch changed the dynamic completely. I am guessing the rearward shift in the aero balance lightened the front sufficiently to lessen the steering sensitivity. I remember Phil Hughes made a similar comment about the importance of maintaing rake in the Maranello.

 

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