More Sticky repair, re door card, door panel

Wondering if some 575 DIYr's could offer some advice for pulling the door pull handle and mirror controls out of the door for sticky repair. Have done multiple searches and information seems limited.
As I understand, removing the six screws from the door pocket allows this to be removed. I've removed the six screws and it's very tight coming out and afraid to force it. Just want to confirm this is correct procedure?
Is this correct, upon removal of this pocket, I can remove the armrest allowing access to remove the door pull handle assembly?
Last, the remote mirror controls, does this require the removal of the door panel/card?
Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Bill
FL

 

It was time to remove the trunk and gas door opening switches for Dave at Sticky RX Refinishing. This involves removing the hand brake housing. The Work Shop manual has instructions for this procedure but inevitably useful information is left out. Have included two WSM pics and some additional pics.
To remove the housing the WSM says to carefully pry up on one corner/side of the memory switch until it slips out (WSM pic). Then to unplug the memory switch. The black and brown part of this switch is one piece. The small part of the plug is what detaches. Once the memory switch is out of the way you have access to the sole screw (Phillips) that holds the whole E Brake cover in place (WSM pic2). Remove it. What isn't mentioned is that inside and at the rear of the cover are two tabs (green in pic 3) that need to be slid out from the slot (pic 4) fixed on the floor of the car. So after this screw has been removed you can lift up the front, wiggle the cover carefully back and forth while sliding it to the rear until it slips out of the slot. The cover will be mostly freed but still be retained by the electrical harness to the two remaining switches. These two remaining plugs can be gently pried off. At this point the hand brake cover has been freed. The two remaining switches easily pop out the top of the removed cover. And should one need, the E Brake handle assembly is now easily accessed.
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A couple of additional pics that may be helpful to this job.
In pic 5 you see what remains after removal of cover. I had put the removed Phillips head screw back in place for safe keeping (lower left).
In the last pic you see the cover as it would sit in place from the door sill view side, not visible when installed. Also pictured in this last view is the removed memory switch.
Bill
FL
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In effort suggested by Patrick "colamclean" of posting multiple sticky repair jobs in one thread, I'll continue to post my sticky repair jobs in this thread. I'm not opposed to changing the thread title or further member inputs.
Below is a link the dash vent removal for sticky repair.
Bill
FL

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/456-550-575-sponsored-bradan/530861-removing-dash-c-vents.html

 

This project is likely to be taken on by very few. It's not really a big deal but some experience with epoxy and working on cars is recommended.
Upon removing my hood latch mechanism for Dave's sticky repair I ran into some small things that didn't please me. The two small allen screws that hold the latch housing in place, screw into two brass nuts that are actually glassed into the dash. One nut was spinning free, held into nothing. This nut needed to be reseated back into the dash. Then the two phillips screws also part of the housing mounting had been stripped and weren't even there. One new screw was put in a third location where a hole was drilled in attempt to apply some mounting support. All apparently poor and quick repair work by someone. Fortunately this was the first time I have run into this kind of workmanship on my car. The below note is what I did to correct this.

First remove the Hood release assembly. The WSM is straight forward on the removal of this piece. Upon removing the hood release assembly, you will be removing the leather trim cover that surrounds it.
What You will see is the fiber glass part of the dash. And in my case one 3/8" hole where one of the brass nuts was supposed to live, two stripped out screw holes and one hole that was not supposed to be there.
The pictured West System epoxy repair kit was purchased from Amazon for about $30-35. Having worked with this product many times before on a larger scale, I favored it and this kit was clean and quick for a small repairs.
Prepare the inside of the car beneath the work area with plastic, garbage bags work here. Cover more than you think you need to.
Follow the kits instruction for a hole repair, roughing up only the immediate areas for repair. Including inside the holes as much possible. Place masking tape over the holes on the back side where possible limiting the epoxy from pushing through too far. A little is good as an anchor and support. Make sure there are No High spots on the outer surface of the dash that you are looking at. Mix up one of the ready made pre-sized packages and add the white silica a little at a time until you have a peanut butter consistency.
I use old credit cards to apply the product. Push it into the holes and make sure it gets in there. If a little pushes through its just right. Smooth the surface with the credit card leaving the holes full and the outer surface smooth. Smoothed properly you don't have any sanding to do afterwards. Let dry overnight.
In the case where you have to reseat the hex screw retaining nut, wax the the inner threads only of the retaining nut and then position it back into the hole that has been filled with epoxy. Match it to the other hex nut in depth that hopefully still resides in the dash. I used a Q-tip shaft shoved or screwed into the retainer hex nut to position it. Positioning it will displace the fresh epoxy which needs to be carefully smoothed away from the nut. This process goes easier than it sounds. Leave the Q-tip or similar in place till everything is dry and hard.
Once dry, In the case of the repaired stripped screw holes, mark the correct location and drill new 1/8" holes for your screws to tighten into. It won't hurt if you have a tap to run into the hole first. Reassemble per WSM instructions.
The refinished hood latch assembly looked great as expected and it was nice to see everything look and assemble as it should.
If I did this again it could all be done in about one hour with the exception of allowing product to dry overnight. Allow a couple hours for the first time effort.
Sorry I didn't take more pics. Feel free to PM or ask questions.
Bill
FL
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One more post, for clarification of screws and location on the hood release assembly.
Pic from 575 Work Shop Manual. Phillips screws pos. 10, allen head pos. 11.
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