Drive cycle and CA smog

Yikes! I just received my 456 this week and will be doing a smog certificate this weekend... Fingers crossed!

Ruben

 

I purchased an OBD 2 scanner to read the codes when I was diagnosing my fuel pump relay failure. This particular one also has the ability to erase the codes. It seemed to work because after erasing and hooking up the scanner again, no codes were detected.

 

Unfortunately, it's not a matter of there not being any codes/CELs. After clearing codes, the car has to go through a "drive cycle" to gather data in order for the ECU to show that it's ready for an emissions check to be performed.

 

yep

just went through it.

iirc...they even sent ?engine ecu? back to italy and reflashed it

still had one code not ready...they went through multiple cold start drive cycles as well.

had to take to smog referee...pita

 

https://www.bar.ca.gov/pdf/Smog_Check_OBD_Reference_Guide.pdf
DATED 3/11/16
SEE PAGE 2 YOU CAN PASS WITH EVAP MONITOR NOT SET
2000+ maranellos
97-1999 fall under any one monitor not set

 

Ive had to this now on 2 cars. The trick in each was to specifically stay below in the second segment.

This was unfortunately, yet easily accomplished by driving AGAINST the commute for a while at 50+ and then hitting traffic (intentionally) on the way back.

 

I had same issue with my 2001 XKE and finally after two months of driving, I gave up and let dealer do it in three days.

 

Need to get a CA smog check so I'm am going to perform the drive cycle on my 2001 456M today after having the battery disconnected through the night. Hoping not to spend countless hours doing drive cycles, I have seen other posts of the "360/575 drive cycle" and was wondering if this will work on the 456M. The Motronic 5.2 is different on the M than the 360 or 575 but will this procedure work for the 456M?

By the way, I tried the BlueDriver OBD2 reader the other day but had problems with it throwing CELS while in use. Code 1625, ASR, check engine, and transmission lights came up. The car even stayed in 1st or 2nd gear and no longer shifted gears. I stopped and disconnected the reader and everything is back to normal. Car runs great and no CEL's.

 

I just went through the same ordeal with my Mercedes C36. I have not been driving the car too much during the past year, so it initially failed the smog test. Actually, the emissions were OK, but the problem was with OBD systems not completing their internal self checks. Apparently some of them take several drive cycles (maybe 3) to complete (from cold start to optimal operating temp). There are several you-tube videos describing the process for Mercedes, but I did not see any specific to Ferrari. Unfortunately driving the car to work or out for dinner probably won't mimic the EPA drive cycle.
As a prior poster suggested, it would be ideal if you had miles of deserted roads, but if you're out early on Saturday or Sunday mornings, the drive cycles are doable.
Good luck.

 

I contacted BlueDriver and they said the OBD2 recall may have not been wired correctly causing CEL's to throw when the car is being driven when connected to OBD2 reader. Its weird, because when OBD2 is not connected I have no CEL's.

I have a generic Bosch reader I am using when the engine is not running and get one code, that being P01625 (whatever that is) and the smog check status still indicated the secondary air system is not ready. Going on a third drive cycle today, hopefully the secondary status will be ready so I can get a smog check.

Its odd, even the Bosch OBD2 reader throws CEL's when scanning for codes. Is this normal?

Thanks to everyone for their support!

 

I just now did a Calif smog test on my 2000 550. Car hadn't been driven in months. I ran it up the highway about ten miles and back then to the smog station.

The renewal form said it had to be a Star smog station.

He plugged some kind of wireless thing into the OBD port, let the car idle for about 10-15 minutes and said that was all it needed, no rolling road test, no sniffer up the tail pipe.

Cost me 59.95

 

California finally got smart and started doing the OBD read out only on applicable cars. Don't know why it took them so long. Other states have done it for some time. If the system says its working ok, it is. So typical of the idiots in Sacramento. Glad I'm gone.

 

Not a problem if the battery is left connected and charged. The monitors do not erase themselves. I do not even turn off the battery when I remove the motor for repair or service.

 

It appears the secondary air pump isn't working. At startup I hear no vacuum cleaner sound. I've done 4 drive cycles, no codes or CEL's except P01625 but nothing related to air pump.
Could this be the relay or ?
The OBD says secondary air incomplete. Just want to get through smog check 😟

 

Secondary air monitor is not set during cold starting. The system tests the secondary during steady state driving at highway speeds after complete warmup. It is tested by monitoring the 02 sensors and looking for a huge change due to presence of a great deal of extra air. It typically requires a restart hot or cold after the test for the monitor to actually set.

 

Secondary air injection does work at cold start to help lower emission. But, to actually test the functionality of the secondary pump, the computer waits for the system to wam up, then turns on the secondary air pump to inject extra air into the exhausts, it sees that condition by looking at the O2 sensors output. Once the secondary air injection monitor is passed, the pump does not run during normal operation again.

So it works during cold starts, but it is tested during fully warm operation.

 

I am going to add on on this thread, I need help desperately. I bought a 2002 456M GTA 4 weeks ago from Colorado and imported to CA. It passed Smog in CO, which seem to have very similar standards as the smog test here in CA. I have now driven over 600mls, city, highway, mountains, etc. I have had at least 15 cold starts if not more. I failed smog 4 weeks ago, failed 2 weeks ago Image Unavailable, Please Login and I failed today. Secondary Air System and Evap both not complete. Attached the printout from Mar26, today the same results. There is also a P1625 fault code that I don't understand and I am not sure if it has any impact on the Smog test.

I have done lots of crazy things with Drive Cycle: I have done the
1. Ferrari: cold start, idle 4min, 3.5mls @2250rpm in 3rd or 4th gear, slow down in 4thgear from 4500rpm (!!!!) to 2000rpm, stop5min idle, turn off. Restart and drive normally (?) for 10min. I have done this twice early mornings getting up to >>150mph to get to 4500rpm in 4th. Did not work.
2. Mercedes: cold start, drive 20mls 50~55mph, idle 4min, drive 20mls 50~55mph. Did not work.

I have read through all relevant and non relevant threads I believe, but I could have missed something.
I have driven the following trips: 40mls through the hills in CA, 60mls highway, 10mls city etc etc. Total 600mls. Still, the 2 monitors are not completed.

I do hear the high pitch Air compression at cold startup and it disappears once engine is warm. There are not other lights (no check engine light) on the dashboard. Car drives great, I just cannot get it through Smog and after 4 weeks, I still don't have plates. My temporary expires in a couple days.

What do I need to do to get those monitors compete? Anybody any advice? Suggestions?
Thanks in advance!

 

For the SAI monitor to be complete it is necessary for the coolant temperature and intake air temperature to be within 11 degrees of each other. The Motronic is reading the sensors to allow the SAI parameters to be met. It is entirely possible that the two sensors are just enough out of range that, although the gauge reading are present and look proper, the Motronic ECU sees them as more than 11 degrees apart.

It is absolutely possible for the SAI system to be fully functionable, everything working as it should, air being injected into the exhaust as it should and still the monitor will not go complete because the ECU is not allowing the test to be preformed until the proper temperature difference read by the ECU.

Solution is to replace both sensors, start with the intake air sensor as it is easy and cheap.

As for the codes you are getting, be very suspect as Ferrari at that time had the status of a "Limited Production" importer and as such was not required to provide "Manufacturer Specific" codes, only the generic codes starting with P0xxx. P1xxx codes are not supported. In other words there is no Ferrari list of P1xxx codes since Ferrari never used them, they used the SD 1/2/3 for diagnostic purposes.

It is true the some P1xxx codes will be accurate, the Audi list is a good example, that's because Ferrari sourced the Motronic from Bosch "Off the shelf" instead of haveing a bespoke Motronic made due to costs involved in such a limited production run.

As to the drive cycle to reset the SAI monitor, that is a complete falsehood. The SAI monitor will reset without moving a foot! It requires two cold starts, i.e., two overnight cold soak starts to get the coolant and intake air temperatures within 11 degrees. The drive cycle is required for the other monitors though including the Evap monitor.

The reason for this 11 difference parameter is to let the ECU know that the car is really starting from cold and requires a richer mixture.

As for the Evap monitor, the fuel level must be between 3/4 and 1/4 full, it won't set on a full or empty tank.

California does not require the Evap monitor to be complete the pass smog, it is the only monitor that can be "Not Complete" and pass the test.