Hi guys, came back from a 300mile trip and noticed this damage. Is there anything that can be done outside of a respray? Car is at 8900 miles. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I would have a reputable detailer try to look at it and see what he can do with the nicks, then would have the whole car wrapped in protective film. Mine is 100% wrapped, including protective film on the windshield and the back engine glass. Best
I will be wrapping my entire car as well and I was wondering what film you used. My installer is recommending Suntek.Also what film did you use on your windshield. The only one I found so far is ClearPlex
I have ClearPlex and been satisfied. I initially used Bray, but it was cut incorrectly twice by manufacture, had logos on it, and needed to remove it and replaced with ClearPlex.
I have my entire Italia wrapped with 3M film and very happy with it; btw also put protective film on the windshield and on the engine glass in the back. These are some of my most practical mods that have already paid for themselves on various occasions
It's underneath the passenger side window intake, where the body begins to swoop. I'm afraid the clearcoat will begin to peel more. Any body/paint experts?
I had 3m on my m3, it turned yellow after a year...Have suntek on the 458, much better texture self healing and doesn't yellow or pull off paint if left on too long. When I was at the dealer a week ago he pulled some 3m off a 360..it pulled the paint off. Get xpel ultimate or suntek...both are self healing.
Ps you could maybe clean the loose clear coat off and put on the clearbra... probably would minimize visibility. .check with the installer on this...
Pulling the paint off has nothing to do with the brand of film. It was probably installed after fresh paint work. The old 3M film adhesive could yellow/it was not wash/treated probably. 3M announced a new film 6 months ago that is on par with other brands. I've used all three brands on my cars, once mixed brands. Could not notice any difference. Bottom line, as you know, it's the installer, prep, care of film that is most important, IMO.
So I guess the bottom line is to make sure you wash your car every time you drive it otherwise you are not taking proper care of it. My m3 was not a daily driver or driven in bad weather. Washed once a week or so. I'm not sure why people are so defensive about 3m. Also if you research you will see that their warranty support has not been very good.
No, as it probably hit the base coat Regarding 3M, it is my own personal experiences. Know XPel is favorite here; to each their own. Plus with the premier products there is only degrees of difference. As stated, it's the installer, preparation, and care, which is pretty much like treating paint with non aggressive products.
For chips that go into the color, I've used a product similar to Dr. color chip. The idea is that you fill the chip with a blob of paint, or in this case, clearcoat. Then you use their blob-remover to flatten the blob until it's flush with the surface. For some reason, the blob remover softens the touch up paint, or clearcoat; without softening the original clearcoat. At best, it can make a blemish 90% less noticeable, but if you press your nose up against it, it's still there. Worst case, you're back to where you've started.
why put film on the windshield ? I know in the state of florida, if a rock cracks the windshield the insurance company replaces at NC and without a hit to your insurance.
As mentioned, maybe OCD. I have it on my spider, and track/street GT3. Would do it again as don't like chips / cracks on windshields. I rather not go through insurance if cracked either, and have another windshield replaced.
I've owned a Black F355 spider for 13 years and have been re-filling small chips where even the original black sub-coat was removed down to the white primer (white primer on a black car - go figure) I have been filling those chips with Nero paint careful to leave a bubble blob. I block sand the area with a 1000 grit and then 1500 grit black emery paper. It takes down the blob and some of the adjacent clear-coat and leaves a smooth surface which is polished with various stages of "leveling compound" - I was given this procedure by an Auto Paint Store with all the various foam polishing and finishing pads that fit my Sears Bench grinder. Since I have the nose of my F355 repainted when the rock chips get so bad (about every 3-5 years for $3000 - I said what the heck, I'll block sand the whole deck lid and fenders. I followed their procedure and won the 2006 Italian Concours "Best Contemporary Ferrari" largely due to the look of the paint and the detail. And I was an amateur detailer!!!! For about $300 you can buy everything you need to do what I did from an auto paint store or you can take it to a competent body paint shop and have them do it. If your red paint is still intact you may get away with just using a glob of clear coat over the entire area.
After a long time waiting, I finally received my 2015 458 spider and I LOVE It. After reading many post regarding the risk of rock chips along with installer recommendations I decided to transport my car directly to the installer from the dealership. I decided to go with the entire car and with Cliff from Auto Armour and it was two great decisions well including the choice of car 3. Cliff was fantastic to deal with giving me confidence that the outcome would be perfect. In fact he is going to stop by my home next week to do another inspection to make sure everything is perfect. On my first drive which was last night I could hear the rocks and I was so happy that I was completely safe or as can be expected. Anyway, from the building of the car to finding cliff, Ferrari chat has been incredibly helpful. Thanks to all.....
Don't leave home without it! We take our cars out to the desert where stones fly around all the time. Also think about a polymer film protectant for your expensive windshield.
