All, About a month ago, my 612 suddenly would not start, as the battery was apparently dead. This was after about 2 weeks of non-use. Previously, this amount of time was not an issue. Using my trusty Sears charger, I was able to restart the car without issue. I then took it in for it's annual. The mechanic stated the battery was able to hold a charge. The car was able to start again 2 days later. Then the battery again died after just 5 days of non-use. Once again, I was able to get the car started with the charger and the car ran fine. Clearly something is wrong. I'm not sure if the battery is having issues or something is rapidly draining it. The car radio and HVAC are off; I do use the alarm / lock. I don't know how old the battery is. The only strange anomaly is a "Front LH Seat Heater" warning shown on the display every so often. However, I had this issue when the battery was fine. Any ideas on what may be wrong? I do plan to get a trickle charger, but would really like to solve this issue. Thanks in advance.
Best of luck, hope you solve it soon. I had the same "front seat heater" warning light show up from time to time (once a week or so) even though the seat heater was never turned on. It would always go away eventually but I never had any battery issues (although I did use the factory battery tender if I was not driving for a few days).
Look on you tube to learn how to find if you have a parasitic drain problem. All you need is a cheap voltmeter and time. That's the first step. Either confirm you ave a drain or not. If not then look back at the battery. a marginal one can fool you.
FBB is correct. A drain much over about 40 ma will drain a battery quickly. Checking will tell you whether you have a short somewhere. I never give a battery a second chance. Once it drains, unless it is an AGM battery, it is severely degraded. Time for a new one.
You guys are the best - thank so much for the excellent advice. Assuming I do go with a new battery, any recommendations (brand, model)? Thanks again.
Best battery out there recommended for the 612 is the Odyssey 34R-1500T. AGM and can be deep discharged multiple times with no problem. Cannot leak. Otherwise, I like Interstates. MT7-34R, also an AGM.
Any ideas about the LH seat heater light mentioned here? I have seen it a couple of times on my car but it goes away after a while ??
I have same problem with seat heater light. (but mine is the right side). The wires seemed to be hanging low under the seat and possibly could get pinched when the seat is adjusted. I tried to zip tie the wires and such up, but the problem returned. So, I just live with it. I'm sure the dealer would want to replace switches, ecus, heating pads, $$$$.
After just 2 days, the battery again was nearly dead. That was enough for me to know something is definitely wrong. I did the usual routine of opening the trunk through the hidden lever behind the back seat arm rest, then connected the jumpers to the battery in the trunk to get the car restarted. Anyway, took the car in this morning and they did find a drain. They stated everything was shut off, but there was still a substantial charge coming from somewhere. I guess they'll be pulling fuses to isolate where its coming from. They'll still probably have to replace the battery as well. I'll post a follow-up, once I get the word on what it is. I hope they find it soon.
I have a 2005 with exactly the same problem. Passenger side, wire bundle hanging down, and intermittent message on the display. I also had other anomalies go away when I replaced my battery (posted a few weeks ago). The 612 is not tolerant of too much deviation in battery output.
Agree -- I am surprised that despite a fresher battery on mine my trickle charger (that I always use if car is not driven daily or 2-3 days at most) always charges despite long drives. It takes the trickle charges at least a couple of hours to turn "green"
Here is an update. The shop is reporting the car is drawing over 100 ma when turned off, which is way too high. When they pulled the fuse to the radio, they got a drop to about 65 ma. They suspect there could be something involving the radio interface to the optional iPod connector in the glove box. They are going to quickly pull the radio and have a look. They are not yet done with all of the fuses and 65 ma still seems too high. More to follow, I guess.
Adam- Here is a chart that Brian Crall says is probably optimistic, but should give you an idea. It came out of a 456 WSM. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Outstanding, Terry. Thank you for that info. The shop seems to feel that 40 ma may be a bit optimistic for a 612, but who knows? I guess my previous experience on two Enzo-era cars has made me somewhat ignorant on the importance of the trickle-charger for the modern Ferraris.
Adam- Depends on the model, but that later Ferraris do tend to use more power while at rest. My 575M can probably go a month and be ok, but I never let it go that long.
The shop just got back to me after wild goose chase through what they claim are nearly 60 fuses to go through. They believe the motion sensors (part of the alarm system) are causing the extreme drain. They also noted some other less severe anomalies, involving the audio amplifier turning on intermittently. They want to disconnect the motion sensors to resolve the issue. Does anyone know if I need to replace the alarm system or what is the best plan of attack, in consideration of what has been found? Thanks in advance.
I had all of the same issues, nothing worked. Then I was inspecting all the wires back around the battery box and figured out that it was the ground. I had a new ground wire installed and I have had NO problems since. Literally no problems, no flickering, no stalls, no shorts, no trunk switch problems, no drains at all. Ferrari did the fix with a kit from FNA.
Andrew, Thanks so much for this informative reply. Very interesting, as the shop working on my 612 has been very frustrated over this - and they are very good at what they do. I'll pass this along and see what they find out.
They checked the grounding and it appears sound. They have isolated a motion sensor in the car as the culprit - I believe its the sensor that is activated if your car's windows are down and the alarm is active, and someone reaches into the car.
If you're referring to the motion sensors which are mounted in the roof, just backwards of the windscreen, then there's a button you can use to isolate them by pressing it just before you leave the car. Again, it's mounted in the panel in the roof. Press it, leave the car and set the alarm. The motion sensors will be isolated. Off hand, I think it's the middle switch of the three (at least on my 2006) 612.
Here is the gist of what I know from the battery issue that turned up earlier. The mechanic had my car for a while in the shop, and monitored the battery drain periodically. He noticed the following well after the car was turned off: -The radio would turn on occasionally and charge a small amount - probably a capacitor to keep the blinking light going. No big deal here. -Security alarm motion sensor would come on and drain at a very high rate for a period of time and then switch off, before doing it again. Not good. The current solution is to disable the motion alarm via an overhead button; prior to setting the alarm. The mechanic fears the security system may be heading toward complete failure; but, no one is completely sure at this point. I acquired a new battery, as well as a trickle charger to protect it whilst in my garage. The ground wires at battery are operating correctly, and the car is charging the battery correctly as well. The problem seems to have started when someone tripped my alarm when they reached into the car's open window to take a picture at a previous C&C. I'm concerned about the security system and that it may be in the process of failing. If anyone has any ideas, I'm all ears. Thanks.
It would appear that the motion sensor is the culprit. I would think that just because that function is faulty, it doesn't necessarily translate to the rest of the alarm system. I would think you would be OK, but then sometimes who can tell with these cars. Do you have to press that button on the ceiling console each time you lock the car to disable the motion sensor?
Hi All, I just wanted to check whether Terry’s prior recommendation of the Odyssey 34R-1500T is still the battery to go for on the 612. I am based in Europe so there might be alternatives here. I have had a funny experience with my car in that it is permanently hooked up to a CTEK through the inbuilt battery charging port. After a drive in July, I returned to the car, albeit 6 weeks later and the CTEK charger was for the first time not charging the battery and the battery was completely dead. When I reconnected the CTEK to see if it might just need a reset, the warning light that indicates no battery is connected came on. I am told the CTEK can recharge batteries from dead so this got me wondering. To make matters worse, the key cylinder on the drivers door of my 612 was not functional and just rotated inside the barrel. The passenger door was inaccessible as the car was parked up against the wall of the garage (to allow maximal drivers side access ironically)! Today a mechanic has just jimmied the drivers door open. We then got access to the trunk through the emergency release and he tried to jump the battery with a battery pack. This looked like quite a portable device so I am not sure it had the strength, but nevertheless the car didn’t start. On my request, he tried to look at all of the fuses in the trunk in case the one that supplies the battery connector was fused but all seemed fine as best as we could see. Does anyone have any thoughts on where to go from here? I have a NOCO GB70 which can jump 6 liter engines but I have never tried it, and don’t know whether doing so would fry any circuitry. The NOCO has a facility to charge even batteries that have less than 2 volts on board but caution is recommended as the spark proof and reverse polarity safeguards are disabled. Would anyone give this a go? I know Terry doesn’t advise giving a dead battery a second chance. I would value the Forum’s thoughts and advice here. When I get the car serviced, I will definitely tend to the drivers side key cylinder as accessing the car was quite a job! Thanks guys!!