Ferrari dealer wants $4800 for New Power warranty on 2010 599 HGTE I am buying. Any feedback on that? Worth the money or? Can be extended annually. Car has less than 6,000 miles. No prior service issues noted. Thanks, John
If it were me, I would probably take it for the 1st year, and that would be it. Too bloody expensive after that. The really big hits on repairs, like the F1 actuator, can now be rebuilt for a fraction of the cost of a new one, so less risk. The clutch will not be covered by that warranty, just like the brakes and other wear items.
All of our 599's were built in 2007 or later. They are all coverable from Ferrari with a power warranty which, while not a new car warranty covering soup to nuts, will give you peace of mind on the big stuff. It cost me $6K for the 1 year power warranty on a 2011 GTO with only 2350 miles (at purchase). Whether your spending $200K on a GTB, $500K on a GTO or $1M on a SA getting a "real" F car warranty (for the first year at least) is a no-brainer. Its a true penny wise and pound foolish thing when you first acquire the 599 and it needs to be sorted as to how you drive (which might mean alot if you are a hard driver and the car is getting put through its paces for the very first time). I probably won't do the warranty again assuming I have no real issues and I feel the car is well sorted next July when its time to renew. There will always be issues but at some point you just gotta roll with the punches. More important than any warranty is having a good F car dealer. From what I have seen having a reputable honest dealer that will work with you to make you a satisfied customer is worth more than the actual warranty. Why ? Because the power warranty is not a new car warranty and doesn't generally cover every single thing that could go wrong. I'm lucky to be a customer of Ferrari of Long Island and they have outstanding customer service and stand behind what they sell. If your dealership is like Ferrari of LI then they will stand behind what they sell. Of course there is a limit to what any dealership can do, but as I have seen you get what you pay for and there really are no free rides. So when you pay a premium and buy that preowned 599 from an authorized dealer and you also get that warranty they will make damn sure that your car runs and drives like the day it left the factory. My 2 cents and best of luck with your new baby (post pics when you get her).
When I was newer to this I'd go with the warranty. Now reading what Terry posted is exactly what I would do.
Bought the 2010 599 HGTE car today, red/tan, has 5800 miles on it. Checked all the service records, nothing even happened to it warranty wise other than a cable in the door needed repair. Otherwise just fluid service each year. Last year plus owner hardly used it, but serviced it twice with regular fluid service at dealer. First owner put on the 4300 or so miles. Original sticker, $385K. Has carbon fiber all around engine bay, silly option for $11K! I think I got it for free!! The HGTE pkg is really something, had not experienced that before, only a standard 599, quite a difference for sure, corners flat and tight, and fast shifts in race for sure. Dealer told me it was expensive enough at $30K that few cars have this option, maybe 10% range he felt. With the seats, wheels, tires, suspension, exhaust, grill, rear valence it does make it slightly different. The subtle non chrome finish on the prancing horses are also different and look nice brushed. Car has alcantara on seats and rear shelf and armrests too, nice subtle finish contrast to the smooth leather. Will get the car once ready probably in a couple days. Still debating on whether to do the extended Ferrari New Power warranty as the car appears to have been flawless to date. But? risks of course, just not sure which way to go. Will not be high mile car as I have others for drivers, so just a Sunday type driver for special times. Like picking red or black at Vegas, you win or lose if any maintenance issues of any magnitude. Worth the gamble to not buy it for $4800? Taz gave good advice, one year and then nothing, but still? Tough decision. Have to decide by tomorrow to have it or not.
Congratulations!!!!! I had the warranty for the first year of ownership. Didn't have to tap into it. I think one is purchasing piece of mind. I think the Enzo engine is bullet-proof. Not sure you really need the warranty. A few bits of advice..... Learn the proper technique of checking the oil....read the owners manual and check it to a tee....some of the Enzo engines get over filled as the mechanics or owners do not know what they're doing. Warm the tires up before you play....and keep good tires on her. Dont drop from second to third and floor it at the same time....she will lose her tail. Maybe play around and find limits of grip in an empty mall parking lot on a Sun morn so you can learn the car so as to not lose grip in traffic where lives can be endangered. Use the wet mannetino mode when its raining, foggy or road conditions are otherwise less than satisfactory....maybe even on cold roads. Just do it! Determine the character of the frond mid-engine configurtation and know the cars behavior....in other words...pay attention to the car and what you feel and experience. Have a blast!!!
Lew- That wet mode is really rough on the clutch. My tendency would be to leave her in Sport and just be careful with the accelerator pedal. Having been brought up driving high performance Corvettes (327/360, 427/390, C6 Z06s), that lesson is already ingrained in me.
Taz, Can you elaborate on the wet mode and what it does to the clutch settings there? Need to understand that mode. Thanks, John
I've lost the tail in sport on wet roads......I think the wet is safer than an accident....clutch is less expensive in the long run. With that said...I drive in sport nearly all the time...race on open roads wet rarely but if its raining in SF it is the way to go as sport spins tires on the wet grimy roads of SF on a "normal" takeoff.
Wet mode very slowly lets out the clutch from a stop and while shifting to prevent any jolt to the rear wheels and maintain traction. The issue is it really eats into the clutch. As mentioned, Sport mode is very adequate with a smooth right foot even in the wet. I grew up driving cars with zero electronic nannies. They didn't have this much power, but they also didn't have this much grip. A mindful driver is all it takes.
J- Roupin pretty much covered it. In ice and wet modes, the system slips the clutch more on starts and shifts to further prevent wheel spin.
Thanks guys. Never new this. I've owned all kinds of Porsches over the last 35 years but fairly new to Ferrari.
Its more than the clutch guys. The throttle responsiveness is different. The wet mode adjusts the RPM to a lower rev per load on the car. Further, the CST is FAR MORE active in intervening than in sport mode….I know these things from experience. Just yesterday, I was driving the seacoast in the rain. In wet mode. the CST took over on every hairpin turn. It was a little annoying as i did not feel the need for it. I switched to sport mode and didn't have nanny telling me what to do and had no issues whatsoever. In fact, the only sliding that I did with loss of traction was when the CST came ON! With that said, I think wet mode is the way to go on wet city streets where there is a lot of stop and go. If you're on the open road then decide based on conditions.
Lew- Affirmative on what you said. Was just responding to what effect those modes had on the clutch. Each of the manettino modes changes ASR/stability control intervention levels and the most aggressive eliminates intervention by both ASR and stability control. Clutch slip is prominent in both Ice and Wet modes.
You guys are all correct. Roupin's comment about being a mindful driver especially resonates. At the track on a rainy day with a little experimentation I found the CST will allow a little slip in the rain- its kind of like the standard mode in most German luxury cars like BMW. The sport mode allows quite a bit and race really lets you slide it around.
