What's this 70 454 Chevelle Re-Creation worth?

At that price from the condition as it looks in the pics you would definately have a cheap fun weekend car. Wouldn't take forever to unload at around that price either.

 

Other than the wheels, tach, hurst shifter...there aren't too many blatantly incorrect bits. Engine compartment actaully looks fairly descent compared to most you see. The correct exhaust manifolds (most go straight headers). Intake looks to be a little higher than the OEM, but it's not chromed. No overuse of chrome for that matter either...valve covers are supposed to be chrome. Presentable engine compartment for a driver not trying to represent as a matching car.

IMO, as somone who owns a genuine LS-6, for $25K you can run drive and beat this thing without the worries of devaluation or major ($) breakage.

I'm not a big fan of repos, tributes and the like but I am a fan of having fun with a car and this is one you could do that with easily.

Nice color combo too.

Biggest thing for me would be to get bigger tires for the front. The wheels look good on the car, but I don't really like the jacked-up weekend warrior dragger look...but thats just me.

Good luck.

 

Looks like a lot of fun for $23-$25k, tops. Any higher and you are into genuine SS territory.

I love old muscle cars but one thing I hate are stock muscle cars. Very boring. I like tasteful aftermarket additions. Here's my (real) '67 GTO, which has aftermarket wheels, exhaust, and correct but not matching numbers engine with a few modifications. It's a real GTO with a 4-speed, 3.55 posi, and 3 2-barrels from a '66. My insurance company says it's worth $30k. I would not sell it for that amount.
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Lines look good in that color.

I will respectfully disagree w/ you on OEM cars being boring. IMO, the reason one would keep a car OEM is to experience what it was like to drive and feel a car in its original condition and era. When I drop into my 66 SB corvette, I'm back in 1966. Some around here have had that experience...some like myself have not & that has value to me.

I wont bash resto mods and modern updates to cars. I would bash someone who took a pretty orginal car and then hacked it into a resto mod, but for someone to take a project car devoid of love and personalise it to their taste, I'm ok with that....you saved a cool car. There is enough room in the hobby for both OEM & Resto mods. In fact I'm slightly looking for a 67-69 Camaro or similar year Fastback Stang for my wife which we could put some wheels on, lower, maybe a CD player etc....

 

No. Making these motors run on unleaded pump gas is a non issue. Hardened valve seats, lower compression ratio, re-cam if you want the same hp and you're good to go.

 

Very Cool! In 66 I built a 54 Stude with a 412 Tri Power from a wrecked Catalina. Wish I still had that one.

 

Very likely has.

 

Thank you for the compliment. I agree with what you say - although my preference is for modified cars I'm still glad there are guys who will save the originals as well even though I find them boring to look at. My feeling is that if a car is numbers matching and in reasonably good shape then it is definitely one to restore to OEM condition. If it's anything less then have at it and make it your own. Even a modified car can give you that flashback experience, whenever I get in my '67 it definitely feels like a time machine.

 

I spent a ton of money for a period-correct-looking sound system in my GTO and I don't think I've ever turned it on while the car was running. A lumpy cam, Hooker headers, and Flowmaster 40's make a pretty good soundtrack. But at least the stereo was easy to hook up

 

I run a lead substitute in my 66's which can be found at Walmart, NAPA etc... never had a problem in over 15 years.

You should be more concerned witht the octane you need to run in it. Period LS-6 ran 11.25-1 compression. Which doens't respond well to 89 octane. In fact in the day, it was desgined to run 100+

I guess I don't know what they did internally to the car, so this might not be an LS-6 repo or it could be LS-5 spec 454 which would be 10.25-1. Either way, you would want to check/get the internal engine spec and ratio to find out your minimum octane range.

 

Yes, 30k will get you a real one in this soft market. 20k would be more like it and the lead issue would most
likely be a non issue. It takes alot of miles to get valve resession issues with non hardened seats. 50k miles
or so. Just my opinion. Been there a few times.

 

This Chevelle has a bid of US $16,100.00 right now. Biding ends in less than 24 hours.

 

The octane ratings from the muscle car heyday (1960s-very early 1970s) were based on the Research Octane Number (RON). Since 1978, octane on US gas pumps has been rated at (RON)+(MON)/2. There is generally about a 10 point difference between RON and MON. The L88 Corvette came with a 12.5:1 compression big block. There was a dash plaque mandating the use of 103 (RON) octane gasoline. Today that would be about 98 (R+M)/2.

 

Nice! I'm a modified car guy myself so I like the updates. My Vette was original when I got it and now....not. I do still have all the parts I took off though. Aside from the wheels I did some minor suspension upgrades and installed an LS3. Here's a pic of it in the Rockies, 1300 miles away from home. Let's hope you can get yours out and put some miles on it. There's plenty of room for luggage in there, ha!

 

Congratulations! Your car looks like someone put a lot of love into it.