308 suspension needs to be done

Heasmans in St Peters

 

You could do it yourself for about $2500 with all new parts.

Springs $600
Shocks $600
Bushes $400
Wishbones crack tested and powder coated $500

All the correct information for the springs and shocks are on the net, then once all the new parts are in you get a GOOD wheel alignment.

You have two options for the bushes, either the original rubber bushes or the neoprene bushes which are the same as in a 355.

The 355 bushes make the car point and respond quicker but you get more feedback than normal which may not suit your driving experience.

Mile Sandy is good from what I hear, as is Sal

 

Or better still, search the 308 section for QA-1 suspension. It'll be the best suspension decision you've ever made, but of course, that doesn't answer your question of whom, only what, if it comes to that.

 

+1

they do lots of Ferraris and know their stuff.

 

you can help him with tyre pressure advice too.

 

QA-1 shocks
Front DR5855 with poly bush spring rate 12-170
Rear DR7855 with poly bush spring rate 14-175
source them from USA cheap as sh#t ova there ship them 2 separate package's if u don't wont to pay tax u will also need top hats alloy bushes to fit into the poly bushes on shocks I may have some spare layin around somewhere if u need them or more info PM me.

Cheers

 

And front spoilers.

 

FO x 355Challenge

I've done the GT4 and QV and never had a problem with either car's suspension and once I got the stupid spoiler fixed by the boatee's here on the Coast never had an issue with it after that.

If he does do it himself be careful when pulling the brake calipers off as mine had a lot of shim washers making the pads wear evenly and if you drop these spacers it takes forever to get them right again using micrometers and other measuring tools to get the pads and calipers aligned again.

Just to clear up the tyre pressure thing, it seems the wheels I have, had a pinhole in them "fixed" previously and after many years the "fix" had worn away and the tyre could leak through the wheel again .............. but hey, why let the truth get in the way of a good story , the only REAL **** up I did was failing to check the rear brake pads before a track day.

When I do work on my car I use torque wrenches (tested every 6 months) for ALL nuts and loctite for the nuts and bolts that require it, but then aircraft mechanics are trained like that.

Another thing that needs to be done is all the nuts that have self locking material need to be replaced, if you're doing the job properly and remember that the bushes on 308s need to be tack welded to stop them rotating and prematurely wearing out.

Also the A arm bolts should be torqued up correctly with the suspension under load, not hanging.

 

Poor Marc.

Btw, I'll call you tomorrow.

 

My understanding, and I'm a novice, is that even when springs sag they maintain their spring rate....in other words, they'd show up with the right rate on a press, but they've sagged giving a lower ride height.

I don't understand how that works, I have to say, but it's something I've experienced with my car.

incidentally, I'd really ask that question in the 308 section....there are some very smart people there and there's nothing they haven't experienced previously.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/308-328/

 

I reckon you're spot on there mate.

 

I've had the QV sag TWICE in the 9 years of ownership and both times the springs were below compression at the correct ride height..................... and seeing as how Kings springs made the second set (using the factory settings) I was not impressed as the second set lasted a very short time.

They are tack welding the new bushes ?

 

and the GT4 only sagged once.....on it's roof.

 

Correct

 

Just about anyone could have told you that Kings springs are a waste of time.

You should have either bought new springs from Ferrari, or upgraded to Eibach.

 

They weren't cheap either

I'll call you for references from now on

 

Any idea on what they are going to charge you?

 

just ring 1800WHOMO

 

Sounds like your guys have a done a few before but just in case.

With regards to the bushes if you replace them:

1. Make sure all the suspension bushes (The 12mm bolts through the yoke) are loose when assembled. Lower the car onto the floor and let it sit for a day. Then tighten the fasteners WITH THE CAR SITTING ON THE GROUND.

The inner part of the bush is vulcanised to the rubber insert, and by not following the above procedure you pre-load the bush when the car is lowered to the ground. This leads to premature wear and not surprisingly, increased ride height.

2. Many people forget to check the bushes in the rear hubs. It's imperative that these are sound. They utilise a steel insert running in a DU bush and washer both for radial and axial location. Attached is a pic.

3. Don't forget the bushes for the roll bar itself plus the upper and lower linkages.

4. Don't buy a "Suspension Kit" that has 16 rubber bushes all the same. The genuine Ferrari ones for the 308 are a different part number front and rear. The front ones are stiffer.

With regards to the ride height and sagging, it seems some do, some don't. I don't know why this is. Do a chassis height check as per the manual. Usually the front stays the same and the rear sags. Your only option really is to replace the springs. I cannot recommend, as others have mentioned, the use of Kings springs.
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That is GREAT info,Carl.

Marc is attempting to deal with the ,ex REV308,re the above...and other stuff,due to non maintenance,over the past 4 years.

 

That is a very common deception, carried out by people who know full well what they're doing.

Buyers beware...

 

Unless Marc's memory is getting as bad as mine, he knows this stuff I hope since he did my 308 suspension in 2006!