I need HELP .... After the winterstop, we drove for a short trip; at the parking, no fans and the expansionvessel popped... water under the 512TR. Started driving immediately, temp then went from 120 back to 80-90 and at home, first cooled both radiators with the hose and then made the 2 wire connections at the relay place. And both fans were on immediately. Who can help ? Image Unavailable, Please Login
Seems to indicate faulty temp switch. Try connecting the wires together at this plug. I think it is on left radiator Image Unavailable, Please Login
........... I will have a look .... I did ... and it did not switch again (temp was 90 degrees C) ... so I closed the loop with a wire and both fans worked Image the fright I had this morning .... your car is bleeding .... help ... what to do .... driving cools her ... I can now cure this until I get the new switch .. My wise lesson: all drivers should have (at least two) little wires ready, 6-10 cm, to bridge circuits ... YOU ARE GREAT CRAIG... Thanx ! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Would it be possible that the left radiator is not getting the same heat as the right one ? If they blow together, it sure looks as if the right side is a lot hotter than left ... What could be the case if that is so ?
may be one ot the radiators are blocked inside? or one of the thermostats are not working right. normaly they open both at the same temperature. I put in also into the right radiator a thermoswitch to start only the right fan. so each cooler fan will work only when the temperature arrives the switching point. also I put in 2 different thermostats, so the left will open at about 89° C and the right opens at 93° C. on my installed measurement system I see then that first the left radiator gets warm, then the right. then the left fan starts at about 92° and the right fan at about 94° C. I did this because if only in 1 radiator is a thermoswitch and just this radiator inside is not completly free the temperature would be less at the bottom where the switch is and so also the right fan will not start even there the temperature would be much higher. so it could be mel that you may have this problem. the inside of the left radiator is not free. so the switch will not work right because of the less temperature. so take this switch out, put it into a pot with water, put also in a temperature gauge and connect an ohmmeter to the 2 connectors and warm the water. then you may see at what temperature this switch will work. so check the ON and the OFF. I think that your switch will work fine and it is a problem of the radiator. good luck and don´t get trouble with your wife when you use a pot from her
Melvok...all I can confirm is that the one temp switch will close BOOTH of the relay circuits activating the fans (my last fuse box post) Check the activation and closing diagrams in your switch and compare it to the new one you buy (they can be different)
Looks like an easy fix. I doubt you have any blockage. Some one would have had to put an additive like stop leak to cause such a problem. The radiator it self is the only thing that could be clogged. Tubes and hoses are to big to get restricted by such things.
HOPE you are right Craig ! That would mean a new switch ..for under $50. Easy repair ! If not, I have to bring her to a local F shop for the radiator and then we are talking about serious money again ...
when the left radiator is not as warm as the right one it is then not a problem of the switch mel. and such a switch would not even moe than 30 , of course not from ferrari
That's right Romano, let's hope for the best ... (Do you have a replacement number and name please ?)
all VW, AUDI, SKoda fiat and alfa have the same switches, or nearly the same. important is the temperature when the switch has to close or to open. the thread is always M18 x 1,5 you need. if you can not find any you may send a pm. I have here several with different temperatures in stock but not as you have there with the plastic at the back, only with 2 connectors. so if you don´t want to have a concour car you may take an aftermatrket switch.
As the switch is hidden behind the wheel arch cover its not a part that can normally be seen by judges anyway Phil
right, but when they will use a mirror with extension they could see from the top or also from the bottom, but it would be hard to see when you don´t know
Read my last thread I started on the switch...maybe 6 months old tops. I found that mine had an aftermarket (non amp connector switch) when I got the car. The signal was too hot. I replaced it with the factory amp style switch like yours and it brought the water temps down. This is really simple. I am not understanding the problem you are having. If the switch goes bad it will only result in your fans not kicking in and therefore raising your water temps. The switch was only $30 us from Ferrari of central Florida.
It was the switch / thermocouple ... pffffffffffffffffffffffffffff !! But it was at least a lesson for me... if this happens (no fans cooling) do not wait for the AA maintenance guys but DRIVE it to cool it ! And I know where to bridge the relays 4 & 5 or at the left radiator .... guess how many of us all knew that before ...
that the fans not running was the switch. ok. but that is not the problem for the right radiator is getting warmer than the left one as you told us mel.