Vague steering in 512TR

are the front wheels and the rear wheels adjusted right? ( toe and camber )
as you descibe your feeling I would say that the front toe is out of limit

 

Even if she is lowered, you should still be using the factory alignment specs, except, obviously, for ride height. Those are spelled out in the 512 TR workshop manual, which you can download for free from ferraridatabase.co. If she is being tracked, some of the 512 owners can recommend what changes might help you there, but they may lead to rapid tire wear on the street.

Insufficient front toe-in can lead to wandering on the highway and lack of straight ahead stability. Rear toe issues can lead to really squirelly handling, not something you need with the TR's rear weighted distribution.

 

This happened to my '86 and after alignment measurements, turned out to be the steering rack itself. It only had 27,000 miles - the first I have heard of a rack and pinion wearing out on center in such a short time.

Rifledriver claims that the rack&pinion probably cannot be rebuilt unless it is the bushings - in other words you cannot expect that welding up the rack and re-machining it will work for very long.

 

James- Here is hoping it is just alignment. Price is not that bad, though, just $1700. I was expecting more. RHD versions are less than $500.

 

Well, I sold the car and RAC had it rebuilt before they resold it. Don't know the cost.

 

Far too many people turn their front wheels with the car(any car car not just Fcars) stationary, doing this puts an awful amount of pressure/force on the tiny gears in the steering rack causing premature wear(more play)to those gears. A vechicle should always be moving somewhat before trying to turn the steering wheel

 

IF you can turn the wheels on a Testarossa while sitting still you must be doing it for upper body exercise. Still, I say the rack and pinion (as critical as it is for car control) should be strong enough to handle this.

 

It should be but it isn't, the TR is good example of the pressure/force that the gears are subjected to. As with most cars' steering whether it be rack and pinion or the steering box type the gears are small and the pressure put on them with the weight of the car and friction of the tires against road surface is high. Even if a person is careful to try and not turn the wheels without the car moving somewhat, rack gears will still wear out. You notice that when you go around a corner in any car the steering wants to go back to center, the alignment is what helps this happen and also helps to reduce the wear on the rack gears, vs. you tugging it back to center. This can be applied to a steering system at rest, i.e.; there is no help from the effects of the alignment to relieve the stress on the gears. On most American cars that I remember that had the steering box and idler arm type of steering there is an adjusting screw that was used for the purpose of taking up the slack between the gears because of wear. I am just about to change the steering box on my '68 Camaro because the adjust screw is at the end and there is a lot of play in the steering. I think if you saw the steering rack apart you would surprised at how small the gears are

 

the steering box of the camaro is totally different to this of a TR.
I don´t know the exact name in english, but the camaro gearbox is not a "rack steering" like the TR has. I think it is called "circulating ball steering" and those steerings always have a screw to adjust.

 

Recirculating ball. They are notorious for center play, one of the main reasons most mfgs have gone to rack & pinion.

So, Llenroc - you are saying that it was MY fault my Testarossa developed slack steering at dead center?

 

Hahaha no no not at all. I was attempting to explain how it can happen on any car, whether it be a rack and pinion or the other recirculating ball type. My point was they both have small gears and are under a lot of pleasure if the vehicle is not moving and most people do not think about that being a problem (not saying that you were not aware of it) just trying to shed a little light on the subject.
And yes the recirc. type does have more intial built in center vagueness but that was not part of my point it was the wear factor and what contributes to it and using it as an example.

 

See my answer post above.
Secondly I didn't think my first post said anything about camaro having a rack and pinion steering I realize the two have totally different steering mechanisms just making comparisons.

 

Check your tires..

 

Legitimate point - mine was much worse before I got new metric Michelins, but still there was some play on center. Too much, as a matter of fact.

It is possible that tires could improve it to the point you can live with it. Or, the same for alignment, bushings, etc.

I was just relating my own experience.

 

Have it checked. Specifically have them check for play between the wheel and the rack output.

You are experiencing exactly the same thing that was bothering me, and mine started at only 25,000 miles.

 

If as you say your tires are in good shape and relatively new, check the front end completely. Tie rod ends, inner tierod ends, upper and lower ball joints and control arm bushings. IF.. all looks good, get it on a rack and check the alignment.

A good way to do this is to get the car on a drive on style hoist. Have sombody in the car while it's up to move the steering wheel back and forth, just enough to pick up the play in the wheel you are feeling. With a good inspection light, closely look at all joints and connections. The area that is loose will be quite apparent. The trick to this it to have the suspension loaded up, as it sits on the road.

 

when just watching the sad video NZ Ferrari posted the link I think you also may check the 2 universal joints at the steering column.
they could be blocked a little

 

Alex, sorry to ask, is the initial problem now found and adeqately tackled/solved ?

 

before you order you may check the steering if this is really not ok.
not that you spend a lot of money for nothing

 

I think you do NOT need a new rack/box at all .... never heard that one was faulty, just by driving the car.

Have the car measured in a very good specialised wheel/tire shop first....