512 tr instrument fail + only 6 cylinders

please explain better:
what happens when you only turn the ignition on ( so without starting ), what lamps are on and what not that are normaly on?
what happens when you try to start? all lamps go out?
when the engine runs does the oil pressure gauge shows right?
what about fuel gauge?

 

Please introduce yourself to us first .....

How was the F car, what have been problems before.. ? Understand me right: it is NOT normal to hotwire a starter in an F.

So lots of things are wrong already.

If contacted, all lights should light up. If started, all should go out.

 

so it can not be a problem of bad ground

so also the burning lights shut not off?

this all seems for me a problem of plus wire form the battery over the fusebox to the ignition key.

just now I don´t have the electrical wiring in mind but if you look there you may find where you may look first.

good hunting


and right mel:
janrbh17 - introduce youself please a little.

 

The car has 2 power outputs from the ignition switch to the fuse and relay panel. One runs bank 1-6 and half the car. The other runs bank 7-12 and the other half of the car. One is probably dead.

From memory I recall that the 7-12 bank circuit also runs the dash.

The Motronic power feeds are not fused but all the others are and split off at the panel. I suspect the problem is somewhere from the ignition switch to the fuse and relay panel itself unless you have had a short on one of the Motronic circuts and cooked the entire circuit (I've seen that before).

 

Have you started with the fuse box to solve your starter problem first? I can't understand why you would hotwire the starter instead of tracking down the low amp 12v circuit that closes the cylinoid. The first problem is the terrible connections Ferrari uses at the fuse box.


It seems like you are on the right track in checking over the wiring diagrams. Have you looked at your connections in the fusebox yet?

Are you getting 12v out of your ignition switch? ( there are 2 outputs...0ne to bank 1-6. The other to 7-12.). If you are not sending power out to both banks then you will not get ignition etc. at this point you would be hot wiring a dead motor.

Can't wait to hear about you progress

 

Mi vision: the ECU is NOT damaged ... and can not be repaired also ... If you find one you will pay E 1800 for nothing ...


Start tracking voltage from battery, ignition switch an go two ways then ... it will be not a quick fix ...as ever ...

Good luck ...

 

before you send out some to repair you may check first all other things:

power from battery to fuse box
from fuse box to ignition switch
from ignition switch back to fusebox

then you will find the mistake, because only there could be something wrong

so you read carefully the electrical diagram and understand how what is working, then you will find the mistake soon

 

Yes.....I did assume correctly....you are hot wiring your car!

So let's start at the beginning.

1) the problem was never with your starter. The car sends an enormous amount of current through the very large guage wires from the battery to the starter. (This is properly working)

2) your problem is in the very small guage 12v wire that signals the starter. Since your signal wire is not working you are having to bypass everything and "hotwire" your car.


You need to understand why the signal is not getting from your ignition key back to the starter.

This first problem makes me think that there is a partial concern to cause your second problem....no power at your gauges and ECU.

If you want help, then please climb in the front of your car and snap a few pics of the connectors that are going to your fusebox. There are probably 6 or so harnesses that snap on to your fuse box. Let's make sure these harness and wires are not discolored pointing to a bad connection.

Next, let's look at how the 12v signal comes from the battery to the fusebox .....then to the ignition switch....then back to the started solenoid.

Also, let's look at how the 12v comes from the battery to the fusebox....then to power your gauge cluster.

If you are lucky these pathways will share a common connector or relay that solves both of your problems.

But first ....let me see some pics of your fusebox and harness connectors. Would love to help.

 

May??!!! I want this fixed more than you do!

 

better fix today than tomorrow
because tomorrow there will be the next failure

 

PS...I see you are in Norway. If I fix your car, can you get me in a flying squirrel suit so that I can fly from one of your mountains? (I really want to do this)

Infact, if you can get me in a squirrel suit I can just come there and fix the car for free (but I should probably fix your car first before I jump off the mountain)

In case you think Im joking.....Im not

 

Picture: what connector is that ? Never seen this in my 512TR (never looked 4 it also ...) !

Remember, the car is over 20 years old ... we would see the same electrical gremlins / problems in any other car ...

Undo all and put it back ... or spend lots of $$$ on a gold kit