Hi all, as my motor and surrounding components come together I have been reviewing the 'before' shots as reference to the assembly of the 'after'. If any of the foregoing attachments are of benefit to others; whether for reference or inspiration then that is a good outcome in my book. Paul Newman & Rob Hayden have set a damn high standard and not all of us have the means and facilities to attain that level of perfection. I do however give respect to these 2 F-chatters (and others) that post on this site; whose tireless efforts and technical input pave the way in making the esoteric less complex for the majority of us! My car came off the road in Oct '12. I intend to have it finished and back on the road by spring this year(Sept) so the before/after attachments will be somewhat condensed as a thread. I will also post images of discoveries made during the Major Service as the car had comprehensive history for the 1st 10 yrs(full records) but nothing documented since.I became the custodian of #78712 in late 2011. It had 1500 Miles of use between '98 and '11 and the belts were well due for change. Lets start with the B&A of the Testarossa rocker covers. Upon removal of the engine, definite signs of oil leaks and very weathered covers; very little texture to the paint, been touched up a couple of times over the years but nothing in service history docs. Stripped back to metal and baked after applying the red wrinkle. Can post more detailed pics depending on interest. Cheers Pete Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
WOW, better than new. Is the paint crinkled or is it just the sand cast surface of the cam covers bleeding through? EDIT: Scratch that. Just read the last few lines. Good job.
The paint is VHT wrinkle only in black and red.Will post pics of the prep, masking and baking of the covers tonight; 5:30am here and just at work. Shortly doing the intake plenums in black and misting over in a grey. They have a much finer wrinkle, like the oil tank and belt covers.
The covers were paint stripped and pressure washed down, didn't need media blasting as the need to mask the exposed ribs creates extra work. Masking of the ribs with pin striping tape did the trick, the holes for the studs I shrouded with a 6mm cap screw in each hole and a small plastic cap on pressed on each to keep paint away from the clamping area of the nut The paint was layered in 3 successive coats in all directions as per the can instructions and left for a short interval between coats. The "oven" is an old parts washer tank not used with an opening in the side to direct the nozzle of a hot-air gun into. Mine has a heat setting, but you can adjust the temp by the lid gap. One hour later the baking was done. this stuff does smell and the residual hangs around for a week or so....don't use the oven in the kitchen. get a large cardboard box. Carguy uses a rack above an old oven heater from memory, gets awesome results. Just a tip- the sag of the coats can pool in low areas, maybe give it longer to set between coats. The thicker the coats the more pronounced the wrinkle is after baking. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
when you use too much heat the wrinkle will get to coarsely. I always made this painting in 2, not 3 steps. first a very thick layer and after about 15 minutes again a thin layer. but next time I will also try 3 times. so the first 2 layers then the same thickness? the instruction on my cans says only 2 layers. one thick and one thin. so how is it with 3 layers?
Jut done mine this winter, one light coat and one thicker 10 minutes later. Bake at 40 degrees Centigrade until wrinkly, or it starts to look like me really P . Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The next series of pics cover the internal checking, of the external clues of the first 2 images. Evidence of oil leaks from the cam covers as well as black silastic sealer used on them. If the bead shows on the outside, the same amount (or more) is hanging on the inside is yr best hope. The gaskets had been re-used by a 'Tech' as the cost of a new gasket set was obviously prohibitive...perhaps he charged for the gasket set(in a tube) who knows. One of the previous owners perhaps in good faith paid for very compromised work, not knowing the difference. The end result speaks for itself. Too much sealer used in the wrong places, the gasket deformed where it could not seal as it was designed to. The puzzling part of the outcome was where I found break away lumps; embedded on the outside of the gearbox oil pump filter when I replaced the o-rings that were so supple, that they snapped. For me, the possession of the historical documents on the car has been the reference point in sifting though the 'who supposedly did what, to which component; when'. The images are not the result of any work documented thereon, but rather the undocumented work carried out AFTER the first diligent owner (the records are 75mm thick) After reviewing the images taken over however long ago, I believe an inspection of the dry sump scavenging intakes is in order even though all oil galleys have been blown through with compressed air. No doubt all would agree. But what say you regarding the o-rings in the gearbox oil pump. Nitrile 0-rings have a service life of 7 yrs in the industry I work in,after that they are too hard to seal effectively. Just a thought. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hello Pete !! I agree with you, I would want to verify that no 'blobs" of old gasket sealer remain in the oiling system, just for peace of mind. Thank You for taking the time to document your work, as other TR owners will certainly benefit from it.
Pete, I see your concern for the excess silicone. Since you work in the industry with O-rings: If the o-rings are in place and not disturbed, I believe the o-rings would not need replaced unless removed? comments.
For documentation purposes, the last major bit of work i did was the fuel pumps after a major leak throughout winter. http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/boxers-tr-m/441462-bringing-tr-out-hibernation-2.html Before Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Sam, was hoping others would chime in and share, I am just putting my FP's together and installing the lines after re-plating. David, Black o-rings are Nitrile and have a limited life span until they lose their 'plasticity' or ability to seal as they become hard. Heat and high pressure take their toll. In the case of an oil pump it is only heat, as pressure is quite low comparatively. Once they become the opposite of soft (sorry, but this has a risk of innuendo pushing tongues into cheeks) sealing is still present, but severely diminished....similar to a pressure relief spring in an oil pump that has lost tension. The risk -perceived or real; of component failure is what determines service cycles, as the consequences are magnified in $ terms in comparison to the service/replacement cost. I see Nitrile o-rings very often that have become brittle in service and the component they serve in has failed....max service life of 5yrs, but not serviced until the next service rotation. Just saying Pete Yes the plate is a bit tongue in cheek as well! Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi Mel, Will be updating shortly with some before and afters of the engine frame, hubs, control arms and various other stuff. It is now officially spring here and I am behind schedule due to work commitments.
Hi All, some pics of the bits and pieces as they come together albeit slowly. The intake tubes came up nicely compared to the condition they were presenting on dis-assembly. I ended up using black VHT wrinkle and dusted them with Hi-Temp aluminium. The amount of time I wasted searching and locating the correct paint which they would not ship due to the risk category, made the Black VHT the only option. The intake plenums will be next to match the shade. The engine frame, control arms,springs, stab bar and overflow tank were powder coated, giving the starting point for the assembly of suspension comps. The hubs were stripped and painted and all the anti corrosion coating was refreshed. Not mounting the hubs until the motor is sitting in the frame. The alternator was stripped and new bearings fitted, all the brackets plated and ready to mount. The starter was given the same treatment as shown located the A/C compressor is next on the list. The oil delivery hoses had seen better days and no amount of cleaning could get them up to an acceptable standard, so stripped them apart and got the connectors plated,located hi pressure hose suitable for the application and sheathed them in S/S braiding. Its been a few yrs since I have done the braiding, bugger of material to work with but the end result is worth it and at $7 a metre its a bargain. All pressure tested and no weeps, ready to go. Shots of the engine bay show 2 metal castors attached where the engine frame locates, this is so I can push the car in and out of the workshop when I need cat swing room, or to gain access to the cabin where the door will not swing wide enough. The image of the heater hose internals is the project at hand, they need replacing as did the union attached to the 34mm pipework on the bulkhead. The hoses were the original, but time has taken a toll and I am replacing them with 13mm instead of 16mm ID and will turn up 13m/16m adapters for each end at the heater solenoid and returns. I will post pics of the progress as it takes place. The reason for smaller diameter is access in the tunnel, its all very 'snug' one might sayand a couple of mm on the OD will allow the new hoses to be pulled through easier. I will continue with another post as I am maxed out on pics cheers Pete Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I just had my car put together amd I was flip flopping about doing the same thing to my cradle and all the anti corrosion gum everywhere from the factory. That looks beautiful! Now that it's done what is the consensus on the anti corrosion stuff now that it's taken off the car ? Is the car more prone , or less prone to rust long term ? How long will this power coating protect the parts ? Anyone know ?
Red! as an example; the 2 plates are from underneath the fuel tanks and have a few imperfections that required the removal of the Waxoyl coating. Again, its a bugger of a stuff to remove without heat. I used a heated tubof water @ 60 deg with a cleaning agent additive. Gloves are required as 60deg is medium rare for steak and same for hands. When up to temp it scrapes off in rolls like butter and the one side shown took 10 mins of scraping and then finishing off with a used scotchbrite. Unsure of how I will get a tub big enough for the rest of the cars underside as it is all pop rivetted on! cheers Pete Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
