Still having starter issues!!

check the ground from batterie to the engine block
same problem I had with my BB and it was a ground problem, but only when warm

 

Sorry to hear of your trouble. It's pretty frustrating when you hop in and already to go, and nothing. Then the usual troubleshooting of opening the hood to let it cool down, towel, or tapping the solenoid to get it going. Also depending on your location, you have a lot folks looking over finding it all too amusing.

It looks like you have done most of the troubleshooting stuff. There are differing opinions on installing a relay. I forget the pros and cons. Maybe this thread can be a refresher.

 

Yes.. I would have kept the original and changed the solonoid..

R

 

You probably got a Chinese re-wired POS. I always keep the old original parts just in case.

 

push start it.......

 

It's the same sort of starter as any other , you can give current with a srewdriver .....

 

That is a possible failure mode, but IMO you first need to determine if it's an upstream electrical problem or an electrical/mechanical problem with the solenoid itself (and, since you've had the same symptom with two different starter assemblies, the probability for the former increases). If you measure the voltage on the white wire connected to terminal 50 on the starter solenoid (while it is still connected to terminal 50) during the no-start symptom:

If the voltage goes to a reasonable value, say more that ~8V, but the solenoid does not engage = something wrong with the solenoid (either electrical or mechanical)

If the voltage is an unreasonable value, like just a few volts or less = upstream electrical trouble (and replacing the starter/solenoid is no fix).

Good Hunting!

 

Once my battery died on my Ferrari while I was waiting to pick up my daughter from school. Once the ground clears, I sent her out to find five boys and tell them to push my car. Starts right up. They had a smile ear to ear.

Don't get stuck, ask for help. And don't buy those F1 things. You can't push those.

 

A A A + + +



you can push - but nothing will happen

 

Ah, yes, the hot starter woes, I know them well. I have the WAI 512TR Bosch starter solenoid replacement here (supposed to be much better) that I mistakenly bought for my 1994 512TR only to realize I have a Nippon starter. Oops, my bad. It cost me $13.58 plus $12.58 postage. If you want it, I will mail it to Japan for the cost ($13.58) plus postage.

In the interim, get a 6" piece of heavy electrical wire, pull the wire from the solenoid electrical connection, insert your jumper wire into the same connection on the solenoid and touch the other end to the battery (hot) connection on the starter motor (covered by a heavy rubber boot). If the solenoid is good, the engine will fire up (have the key in the "on" position) and you can figure out the problem when you get home. Keep the wire in your glovebox for emergencies.

I had a relay attached to the solenoid that worked perfectly for 10+ years and 20,000+ miles, until one day there was apparently some low voltage leakage in the fuse box into this circuit, causing the solenoid/starter to stay engaged while driving. The result:
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I have a heat shield around mine and it still got hot enough to fail one day. (first time ever)
I just loaded the heat shield with ice for 5 minutes and everything woke up again.

 

After my starter got burned up I took the relay off and checked the voltages. I get 12V from the key to the fuse box and variable voltage out of the fuse box to the starter solenoid. There are no relays in this circuit. The problem seems to be in the connectors (surprise) which are not discolored and appear OK. Playing with the connectors (F and I as I recall) usually helps and it fires right up. My problem can happen whether hot or cold.
Well, this will be an easy fix, I thought. I removed the two white wires from the connectors and fashioned a jumper that connected the two wires, bypassing the fuse box. Perfect. The car started every time, but then I had no AC, wipers, turn signals and a few other useful accessories. It seems the white wire from the key switch to the "I" connector also serves to ground these circuits (? maybe so that they don't draw voltage from the starting circuit when the key is in start position?). Frustrating. I put everything back to stock configuration and the car started perfectly for one month, but is now back to the same problem of intermittent starting. So now I have two thoughts:
1. Install a push button connected to a relay and connected to the white wire on the "F" connector (position 1, I think) while leaving everything plugged in as it is now, or
2. splice a wire into the white wire on the "I" connector (from the key switch), take the "F" connector white wire (to the solenoid) out of the connector and hook the two together.

Or how about this - does the Dave Helms gold connector upgrade include new fusebox connectors.

Any advice/opinions would be welcome

 

Why can't you add a jumper wire to connect the two white wires together, but still also leave them connected to the fuse box?

 

Hmmmm... I suppose you are right, grasshopper.

 

I had the starting problem with my 88 T/R and installed David Helms @ Scuderia Rampante's gold connector kit for the starter. The plugs are under the expantion tank, easy job and did the trick, I have not had that issue again. His # 303-938-9000.

 

Ferraristarters.com was a lot of problem for me.
After reworking the solenoid on my old original starter I still had problems with hot starts. I had the ground beefed up after but it did not solve the problem.
I then decided to change the whole starter and tried to do business with ferraristarters.com...It was problem after problem.
I finally found a new Bosch starter at the AD close to me and since then everything is fine.
At one point one has to go the OEM way, spend the dollars and go on with his life...
No more embarassing moments when your red head b*tch do not want to start in front of a lot of people!
Just my 2 cents...

 

Sounds like Ferraristarters.com should be avoided?

 

Well, they sent me wrong parts a couple of time and it was difficult to get in touch with them after my Visa was used...But after numerous attempt I finnally got what I wanted...a refund.
That was some times ago...I don't know if things got better since then.

 

I had the same problem ( slowly getting harder to start when warm, then even when cold + some problems with the speedogauge). In my case the problem was in the fusebox. Pull out everything in the fusebox and check for discolorations + spray with electroclean and put back in ( pull out and put in 2-3 times first to clean the metal).
Takes 10 minutes.
Be careful about putting a relay back there! I did it, and it STAYED ENGAGED and almost ruined my starter.

 

I wanted to post this here so that this may help others trouble shoot the 512tr starter circuit.

The first pic shows the trigger wire to the starter. When you turn the key, the signal should ultimately come here. If you turn the key and you get nothing, some thing is not connecting from your fusebox to key to the various connectors then finally ending here.
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