Walk me through this process and fill in the gaps: -Remove airbox, muffler and bell housing. -Remove clutch, pressure plate, send out to be resurfaced and relined (clutchmaster.com Kevlar) -Order new throw out bearing and various O rings and spline alignment tool. -Take pictures of the removal process to document proper reassembly. -Bleed clutch fluid and replace. -replace with resurfaced / relined parts. What am I missing? Is it this straight forward? I read something here about shims? ect. Its a 1990 TR. Thanks! Christian
It is my understanding that if you use the OEM AP clutch you don't need shims(?), but that will cost more than a relined disc. and reman pressure plate. I was able to lay my hands on the AP setup for a very reasonable price. I just ordered the release bearing and random o-rings from Eurospares, about $250 IIRC and they had it here in three days. I ordered the following parts from ES- #10x3, 15, 21, 22, 25, 26, 28, 46, 48x2 and 50. Not sure you need 48, but they are cheap. The two parts they did not have were seal 24(x2), and spring 27x(2) on their diagram. I was able to get those from Ricambi. Don't know that you need the springs, but I'm in there and it will never be easier. http://www.eurospares.co.uk/partTable.asp?M=1&Mo=624&A=1&B=35142&S= I hope to do this in the next 30 days, will try and document the procedure.
I just bought a new AP from Competizione and sports cars for a VERY good price. A new AP comes with the shims proper for it. For a refaced clutch the procedure to measure it is all in the shop manual.
Do NOT forget the grinding/flattening or how the heck that is called of the FLYWHEEL ... See my post of date 02-14-2012, 04:05 PM in the gearbox thread: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/boxers-tr-m/343161-512tr-gearbox-problem-4.html
I was told to use Porsche Optimoly clutch shaft grease. Do any of you use something else on the shaft.
I got mine about 2 weeks ago. Richard has some interesting parts hidden on the shelf. Too bad we don't all live closer, we could have a clutch party. Maybe we could Skype it?-LOL.
Yes Richard has good prices too. I got my Newman diff from him too. A clutch party with bet on who's finish first. And the one who wins have to help the other ;-)
Yes to the clutch party and the sorts. I need to start getting parts together so that my down time is minimal.
I know I can do a clutch in my Subaru in about 2 hours. But I've done that a few times. Something tells me this will take a bit longer.
Gee, we've cleaned him out on that too! I bought one with the car, his shop is fantastic and he and Fernando are great guys. Knowing my car belonged to Richards father was certainly reassuring.
If I do the resurfacing route, its a 5-6 day turn around including shipping time. Witch is an eternity in my world. haha.
Note that others have had pin problems when they sent them out to be resurfaced. If it is not warped or excessively blued, you might want to do a light scrub while it is on the car. Rgds, Vincenzo
I've done a number of flywheels (not Ferrari) using a DA sander with an 80 grit pad on it. It essentially gives the surface a good scuff but doesn't remove any significant material.
Claude, did you use the Optimoly? Sounds like it is uber expensive. I found this thread over on Pelican, the Porsche guys are saying Permatex Copper Anti-Sieze is a good equivalent? Where on the "shaft" did you apply it?
Richard told me NOT to use anti-sieze but I don't know why. I personnally never grease clutch shafts. I prefer them very clean and dry. This time I was told to apply a very light coat of grease on the spline just so the surface doesn't rust when in storage.
It has been a while since I did mine, but it was very straight forward...... and actually quite easy and accessible. I used OEM parts.
