Some of you may remember that since I did my diff I complained about hard transmssion shift and something like clutch problem. Well two weeks ago my friend was having a ride with my car and the clutch just quit and made a very weird noise. I didn't had time to look at it so I just parked the car and ordered a new clutch from Richard at Competizion and sports cars. I replaced it today. On the old clutch one of the disc lining had completely scattered away from the plate and rivets. Everything else looked in good shape. Weird because it looked OK when I did the diff but maybe I missed something. I installed the new clutch making sure everything was perfectly in place and then bleed as it should. The pedal had a completely different feeling then before. Started the engine and WOW!! A new transmission!! If you remember I had replaced the transmission oïl with REDLINE. The culprit was really the clutch that didn't disengaged completely, with a small friction to cause trouble. The transmission now shift so smooth it's almost unbelievable, even in second when cold but I guess probably due to REDLINE.
Can you post pics and or a more detailed decription of the process? Sorry but I dont know the year of your car..... IE single or double clutch. Im about to do the clutch on mine and need all the reference material as possible. Glad its sorted!!!!
Very glad it's all over now Claude ... But DO document it (allways) for all of our friends here with LOTS of pics please ... D
I'm very sorry guys. I thought the clutch must have been covered many times before so I didn't take any pictures :-( But Lear60man, here is a good description for you. My car is a 1990 with double disc. First step is to remove the rear lower grill and the valance panel. Unplug all the connectors from the exhaust including thermocouples. The little rectangular connectors on pass. side at the bellhousing are easy to remove by pressing on the wire clip, don't remove it just press on. Remove the exhaust, then the heatshield on the rear of trany. Drain the oïl ONLY in the transfer gear case and remove the cover (I prefer this way but is not mandatory) This way you have access to the clutch shaft gear when putting it back in place so you can play with the shaft to align. You don't have to remove the small lover cover. Unscrew all the bellhousing bolts. There is one at the bottom that you barely see. Disconnect the clutch hydraulic line. You are ready to pull out the housing. It may be hard a bit to get it out. Break it loose and slowly pry on each side until it slides out. If you're doing the slave cylinder rebuilt remove it from that housing. It's a very easy rebuilt. 2 o-rings and 3 seals. The seals are for brake fluids so don't use regular oïl. I like castor oïl. The hardest part is to remove and replace the T/O bearing if you're doing it. Be carefull because the clutch actuator parts are EXTREMELY expensive. Remove the clutch from the flywheel. Inspect flywheel and get it resurface if it needs. Mine was like new. I suggest replacing the pilot bearing too.(spigot) If you have a double disc clutch it is a little tricky to put back in place correctly if you don't have the alignment tool shaft. If you are not use to it I strongly suggest you get a shaft. Put the first disc(rigid) in place. On double disc you have the intermediate plate. Replace the 3 little pins screwed to the flywheel (they come with new AP clutches) Put the new aluminum outer ring in place. Place the intermediate plate in place BEFORE the small shims. This is where you need to be carefull, the 3 pins have to be aligned in the intermediate plate retainers. There is a bevel on the pins and there is a snap ring Inside the plate behind the leaf spring. Those snap rings need to be correctly align on the pin. I used a small dentist pic. When it is centered you will feel it because it will get in further. Then use a small socket and hammer around the hole and the snap ring will expand and slide in the pin. Repeat on all 3 pins. This retain the intermedite plate in place. Now put the second disc in place with the tool shaft and the pressure plate. Be carefull when you will put the bellhousing back in place. The clutch slave will be pushed back and will throw out oïl from the line fitting hole. Cover it with a rag, don't plug it because air and oïl need to escape. This is where I like to have access to the shaft gear. I forgot, if you have removed the layshaft put it back in place BEFORE the bellhousing because it won't go in after, it's too long. Reverse the procedures to reinstall. When you reinstall the transfer gears with the cover leave the car in 5th gear and rock it to align the splines and gears together. Good luck with the job. Feel free to ask if you need more info if I can help.
Your 1990 had a double clutch? I guess I need to do some more digging as I was under the impression that 1990 and up was the later single clutch. I also have a 1990, I will also assume that the correct clutch can be found via VIN.
Just so I get my thought process straight, a single clutch has wear material on one side. A double clutch has wear material on both sides. Correct?
There was a minor upgrade mid production somewhere. Don't recall when. There are 2 part numbers and last I checked 2 dramatically different prices. The only difference was the design of the clutch stack alignment pins.
No, double-disc = two complete disc assemblies with friction material on both sides (four friction surfaces total); single-disc = one disc assembly with friction material on both sides (two friction surfaces total).
Lear60man, the change was in 1990 from vin 73531. The size of the disc change from 9 1/2 to 8 1/2 inches. BTW I had a ride of a bit over 100 miles today and it was perfect.
Do you have a reference for this change to share (technical bulletin, etc)? The only change that I've come across in the F documentation for the TR clutch discs is a change in friction material from "with asbestos" to "without asbestos" -- and it would be very, very unusual IMO for a manufacturer to change the clutch disc diameter without also change the corresponding diameter of the pressure plate clamping area (and my '91 TR seems more like the 9.5" dimension).
In looking at the exploded parts diagram, I concur. Some F engineer earned his salary that month. Claude, thanks for the write-up it will be helpful, soon!
Hmmm, that year and car # don't match (car# 73531 = 1987). There were several clutch related changes throughout Testarossa production, here are the SBs I have addressing them (am I missing any?). Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The BB clutch which preceded it was a smaller unit of the same design and was off the shelf from AP. The TR clutch was just a copy and made a little larger. It never was a very good solution. Ferrari learned their lesson and went back to a far superior single disc clutch for the 512TR. That clutch was so trouble free and durable it was used up to the 612.
Sorry guys I got that info from the parts manual IIRC. Also another shop told me about the size of the disc which may be wrong too. But most vendors list two different part numbers for the Testarossa by year 87 or 90
Claude-you suggest replacing the pilot bearing. This bearing normally sits in the center of the flywheel. I can't find that part listed in any of the diagrams, either from Eurospares or Ricambi. Where did you get yours, and part #? Did you get the clutch alignment tool? If so, any interest in renting it out-LOL. Thanks!
I bought my pilot bearing from Superformance, they call it spigot bearing 3081605. No I don't have the tool shaft. I did it without but it's kind of tricky.
