bosch fuel distributor kit

I'm pretty certain the consensus is to send your distributors to CIS Flowtech.

 

I'm going for it myself this winter! Damn the torpedoes, full steam ahead! If I screw it up, I'm sure I'll post about it!

 

I do believe he flow tests and adjusts everything perfectly afterwards. It's my understanding that there are very fine adjustments with valves and whatnot and it doesn't always work perfectly for the amateur. For me this is one of those things that requires special tools and knowledge to get right. I plan on sending mine to Larry over the winter.

 

Its not a novice job...thats for sure. I thought about attempting it on my Mercedes Cosworth (similar Bosch Distributer) but had it done professionally. Some things are worth paying a professional to do.

Joe.....Yo go girl! Let us know how it turns out!

Ria..everything has to be perfect and calibrated internally. I do not have the equipment to do this my self. There are DIY tutorials online and are quasi surgical.

 

if somebody interested in my complete 2 fuel distributors, metering divice, fuel regulator, auxiliary air valve and accumulator please send me a pm

 

CIS Flowtech - Rebuilding Bosch Fuel Distributors & Warm-Up Regulators

Plan on the cost of the kit + their time. FAR less than a new unit. But if your TR needs it....

 

Is this price for rebuild/restoration ?

 

Anyone tried this ? http://www.fuelparts.com/ferrari%20fuel%20distributors.htm

 

this is what you should do.

 

LeslieChoo,

Yes thats the price to completely rebuild your fuel dist. You can go with the company you mentioned, but it will be a couple hundred more per side.

CIS flow tech has an excellent reputation.

 

DIY! DIY! That's at least what I'm doing. Although, my rebuilds have been sidelined by a missing bit that I dropped somewhere in the engine compartment last weekend. As such, I think I'll stop the fuel distro work and instead focus my attention on removing and inspecting my exhaust and cats anyway (hopefully finding the bit along the way), using my new jack and crossmember of course!

BTW I did buy my rebuild kits from CIS. They have kits now that include the copper "crushable" washers as well.

 

I thought I wanted to buy a restored unit and the pricing shows is for a restored unit . Bruce replied and said its the rebuild fee.






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Joe,
I did the rebuild on both FD's and the kits are straight forward enough to install. A couple of points are imperative in the process (as you would have read in many of the blogs online) precision and cleanliness.
The depth of the screws for each of the spring seats in the lower chamber has to be recorded accurately,and then replicated upon reassembly (within 0.01mm) all components in each upper and lower chamber have to stay together.
The cleaning is a biggie, not just shiny, but surgical inside and out. Bear in mind you have non removable filter inserts leading into the upper chamber as well as leading out to the F I ports, using a magnifying glass,lupe,headset before cleaning will show how much stuff has to be removed. Ultrasonic cleaner is the only way to dislodge that, hence the constant flipping over in the bath, it can only come out through the channel it came in... the central dist bore.Keep going until it's all spotless.
Reassembly is slow and methodical, use studs to guide the upper and lower together. 5mm threaded rod is fine with electrical shrink wrap over the threads to prevent scoring. Use a silicone grease to assist the plunger housing and its o-rings into the upper chamber on assembling, if there is resistance, don't push!
When its all back together, you will have to flow the FD's individually to confirm all is well, best done on a cobbled together flow bench rather than on the motor. Yr pumps have to be up to scratch, follow the WSM in fuel delivery checks. minimum voltage under operation etc. flow the injectors across idle,mid and full load. into 50ml calibrated lab beakers(cheap as online) and record, then do the same on other FD.

On reading all of the foregoing; when you are getting sorted to start yr FD rebuild, do all the steps in reverse (bench flow them first) that way it may give an indication of something different being an issue, or it gives you a benchmark of where you are starting from at least.
I bought Probst's book on Bosch FI systems, get one if you can and it will fend off a few of the maybe torpedo's. It does cover the applications and quantities of the Bosch FI systems over the years and gives pause to ponder on how they could individually calibrate FD's in such mass produced quantities(millions) and still remain competitive and profitable(and in business)over decades.
Enjoy the DIY adventure!
Pete

 

Pete, you are now one of my heroes (along with Steve M, Turbo Joe, and the many other DIY experts here)! Thanks for the tips!

 

Aaaaaaaaw Shucks!
don't go getting all gooey on me now Joe!

 

thanks,
but I´m not a hero - only a mechanic with long time experience

 

These are my observations and suggestions on the kits and refurbishing the F/Distributors.

From what I have read and gleaned from the Probst book on Bosch FI systems; the KE-CIS ranks as the most complicated and orchestrated of the CIS systems. If the idea grabs you on doing the FD's, get the Probst book first and read it intensely and slowly a few times to connect the synapses on the role the FD's plays in the grand scheme of things. Then decide if you want to do this.

If,(like me) you have copy of the WSM which portrays the KE system and its components by using diagrams of the K-system... it will do yr head in. Hence the Probst purchase.

Once you start, take notes on everything..even better keep a laptop handy and set up a spreadsheet in excel for the 1-6 FD & 7-12 FD a column for each cylinder feed. This may prove invaluable when you are reassembling & setting the spring seat heights. It also acts as a visual for the patterns that may emerge when testing the flow of the injectors as an assembled bank (1-6 and 7-12)

The kits are very good quality, all components are included for the FD's. The crush washers for the inj. line connection are not, so plan on purchasing 2 full sets(48) for the top connection. If you have the equipping they can be annealed ( if you don't know what that means, then maybe this exercise is not such a productive idea)

What you will need apart from the Kits:
> compressed air to clean/dust off/dry everything you handle
> access to an Ultrasonic cleaner, to dislodge the tiny specks of dirt in the FD and behind the filter screen in the upper chamber inlet. An air gun won't cut it. 3/4 hr in U/S bath does.
> plenty of clean wipe rolls like chux cloths
> plastic bags and perm markers - keep all related parts together
> Depth micrometer and the ability and 'feel 'to use and read it properly
> a brass 'pick '(not steel on the aluminium) for the o-rings.
> Silicone grease, very sparingly
> For the test rig, a myriad of air connectors, hard plastic air line, teflon sealing tape, the list goes on.
> Tools of all types, torx socket adaptors, 3mm adaptors.
>5MM studs to assemble both halves back together and not damage the diaphragms
> pressure guages and adaptors if you do not have the Bosch Pressure test kit.

If you get to the test stage, you will need to set up a test rig OFF the motor, with fuel feed into the Fpump, then to the Accumulator> Filter> FD Inlet sitting on the Metering Plate housing. Prior to this stage each component of the 'orchestra'needs to be checked for spec. The WSM is helpful here (D28) as all the figures are shown.

Get a set of Labaratory calibration beakers (50Ml) for the measuring of the discharged fuel out of the injectors on test.
The power source for the Fpump needs to be well located and no chance of a discharge spark while you have raw fuel around.Wire a push/pull on off switch into the circuit. Do Not use jumper leads onto yr battery to power up the pump..one slip and you may well torch yr car. Always have a fire extinguisher within arms reach.

The reassembling of the FD with the new kit is straight forward, just don't rush it. Have it resting at eye level while bringing the 2 halves together on the studs so you can spot any misalignment or feel any resistance. don't force it as it should smoothly move together over the springs and o-rings on the barrel. Silicon grease smeared between thumb and forefinger before applying to the bore of the top allows the o-rings to move easier.

To finish this long winded diatribe off; the heights of the set screws on which the lower spring seats locate is extremely important. The depth mic has the feel and sits flat on the surface, a vernier has too much error. needs to be within .02mm of original setting. Exactly is better.

The Probst book talks of the pressure differential between the upper chamber and the lower which allows the ceramic disc to be pushed away from sealing the outlet to the injectors, this has to happen in each chamber at the identical pressure and flow rate at the same time (nanosecond sorta time) or their will be a pressure 'bias' and the late opening port will lose its own lifting pressure to the others and the injector line will not pressurize and appear 'blocked' hence the term orchestration. The difference between upper/ lower? .2bar(3Psi)... meaning the beefy lower springs have to be set with a holding force equally of 3Psi against the diaphragm of each upper port. This tiny pressure dynamic is magnified dramatically by a minute variation of height in the set screw.

I hope this gives some insight to the analytic requirements of tackling FD's, it is quite a challenge. In hindsight I would have preferred to invest time in more easily attained outcomes, however my learning curve through experiment, test, feedback; and the knowledge gained thus, has provide me with an understanding; unable to be gained by mere theory.

Cheers
Pete

Disclaimer: the upshot of the preceding is I could be completely wrong on all I have observed but one must at least try.

 

You are just missing part(s) of the (complete) TR WSM set. Pages D1-D60 cover the euro F113A ignition and K-Jet without Lambda system; pages D61-D106 covers the US F113A040 ignition and KE-Jet with Lambda system (but does not repeat details about the "common" shared items -- so you need to read D1-D60 before reading D61-D106). You can download a copy of pages D61-D106 from All Ferraris -- it's called "Workshop Manual Testarossa Supplement Catalytic Converters" (IMO, it's easier to read/understand than Probst for KE-Jet with Lambda operation).

They also did a separate booklet for the later euro F113B KE-Jet without Lambda (which has even better figures for describing the internal operation of the EHA).

 

Well then....

you talked me out of DIY. ;-)

Rgds,
Vincenzo

 

Nah, it's not so bad so far. Just gotta be meticulous in your measurements.