TR Dash Removal | FerrariChat

TR Dash Removal

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by jim94-348, Dec 4, 2014.

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  1. jim94-348

    jim94-348 Formula Junior
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    #1 jim94-348, Dec 4, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Just removed the dash and recovered the leather on a couple components. I found an exact match for the leather at the Tandy Outlet. I'll post the part number when I can. Here is how to take it apart. It only took me about 30 minutes to an hour.

    This diagram shows most of the bolt locations:
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  2. jim94-348

    jim94-348 Formula Junior
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    #2 jim94-348, Dec 4, 2014
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2014
    The first thing to remove is the speaker covers. Number 11 in the diagram. Sorry but I didn't take a picture of this. There is a screw or two near the door rubber on each side. You need a Phillips screw driver to remove them.
     
  3. jim94-348

    jim94-348 Formula Junior
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    Next you will remove the two little plates under the speedometer surround. There are two 8 mm nuts on each one on the back of the covers. Sorry no picture but I can add them later
     
  4. jim94-348

    jim94-348 Formula Junior
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    #4 jim94-348, Dec 4, 2014
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2014
    Next remove the steering wheel. Pry out the horn. There is a trim around the horn that comes out with it and there is one wire on the back of the horn. Unplug the wire. Remove the screws under the cover with an allen wrench. The steering wheel is then loose and can be removed.
     
  5. jim94-348

    jim94-348 Formula Junior
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    #5 jim94-348, Dec 4, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    With the steering wheel out of the way you can remove the speedometer and gauge surround. It is part number 8 in the diagram. Remove the two bolts on the bottom as shown in the diagram. Once they are out tilt the whole unit up and back and there are two catches on top. Lift up and it should come loose. The gauges are still connected so on bottom and back side of where the bolts were are two more screws that hold the gauges two the surround. Remove these two and you can separate the surround from the gauges.

    You can see the black tab in this picture where the screws are holding the gauges to the surround just below the speedometer:
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  6. jim94-348

    jim94-348 Formula Junior
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    #6 jim94-348, Dec 4, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Now with the surround off you can move the gauges around. Tilt it to the right like in the picture and you will see the bolt silver bolt that is right int he middle of this picture. Go ahead and take it out. There is also a phillip's screw in the hole just above it, It has already been removed but you can see the hole. Go ahead and remove this as well.
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  7. jim94-348

    jim94-348 Formula Junior
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    #7 jim94-348, Dec 4, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Now tilt the gauges to the left and you will see the picture below. There are two more bolts shown that have to be removed along with a phillip's screw in the upper right hand corner that has already been removed in this picture.
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  8. jim94-348

    jim94-348 Formula Junior
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    #8 jim94-348, Dec 4, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Now for the center tunnel. There is a cover shown in the photo below that is just below the radio cover. This can be gently pried down. There are two clips that will pop out. Once the top is loose the cover slides straight out.
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  9. jim94-348

    jim94-348 Formula Junior
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    #9 jim94-348, Dec 4, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Once that cover is off you will see what is shown below. Remove the bolts that go into the dash. Mine had one bolt but I think there should be two there since there is a hole where it looks like a second bolt should be. The car had a security system installed early on and someone removed the dash for the wiring many years ago and may not have put it back.
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  10. jim94-348

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    #10 jim94-348, Dec 4, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    In the picture above there is a triangular bracket like the one below. Remove the bolt holding in the dash and also the two nuts that attach the dash to the center tunnel. Take out the plate shown below.
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  11. jim94-348

    jim94-348 Formula Junior
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    #11 jim94-348, Dec 4, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Now you will need to remove the covers in the leg well that attach to the center tunnel. I apologize that this isn't a great picture but this there are 4 phillip's screws on each cover. This would be the right side (passenger side in a US car) looking back towards the tunnel. Remove the screws on each side and the plates should come off.
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  12. jim94-348

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    #12 jim94-348, Dec 4, 2014
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2014
    Next you need to remove the carpet cover that runs from the passenger side to the drive side around the tunnel. Unfortunately, I didn't get a picture and it isn't shown in the diagram. They are small screws and there are two on the passenger side and one on the driver side. Once loose you don't have to take it out just let it hang down so you can get to the bolts in the next thing to remove.
     
  13. jim94-348

    jim94-348 Formula Junior
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    #13 jim94-348, Dec 4, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Now you have to remove the plate on the back of the glove box. This is item 7 in the diagram and the screws are item number 6. It helps keep the mirror from sliding behind the dash so that it slides open and doesn't catch when you open the glove box. Undo the two screws (6) on the bottom of (7) and pull the plate straight down and out.

    In this picture you can see the plate (7) and one of the screws (6). NOTE: this picture is upside down. You will also see an open screw hole in the picture this is where one of the screws on the cover you removed in the last step went.
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  14. jim94-348

    jim94-348 Formula Junior
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    #14 jim94-348, Dec 4, 2014
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2014
    Now with the plate is out you need to open the glove box so you can get to the two bolts behind it. On the left side and the right side behind the mirror you will see two bolts that need to be removed.

    Sorry but I forgot to get a picture of these bolt locations. In the diagram they are bolts 5.
     
  15. jim94-348

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    #15 jim94-348, Dec 4, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    It should be just about loose. You just need to remove bolts 1 in the diagram. In this diagram they show them coming in from the top but in the 86 they are screws on the bottom. The are just under the vents and tweeters. Here is a picture if you are hanging upside down under the dash all the way by the doors. I had removed the seats to oil and recondition so it was easy to get to. The screw right in the middle of the picture that you need to remove.
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  16. jim94-348

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    #16 jim94-348, Dec 4, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I believe that that is all you have to do unless I forgot something. The dash should come right out. I was just recovering the gauge surround and below the windshield so I just had to pull it back some.

    I did this a couple weeks ago and just got around to posting it so it is possible I forgot something. This was from my 1986. When I took the dash out in my 1987 it was a little different due to the knee plate as I recall. I hope this helps!

    Here is is all back together oiled and reconditioned other than the surround which is being finished.. That Leatherique rejuvenating oil is amazing stuff and made the tired leather look brand new.
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  17. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    Thanx for this very informative posting Jim !!

    Was there any lether part that bhad to be renewed ? If yes: how was that done ?
     
  18. jim94-348

    jim94-348 Formula Junior
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    I replaced the leather just below the windshield and I am having the instrument cluster surround done professionally since there are so many sewing points and angles.. I'll post a separate post later on replacing the leather under the windshield. Stay tuned
     
  19. FTanner

    FTanner Formula Junior

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    Great thread. How much did it cost to have the instrument cluster redone?
     
  20. lear60man

    lear60man Formula 3

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    Great write up Jim. Question. Im thinking about pulling the leather piece just below the windshield (mine was recovered with tan leather by the PO). Do you think you can get it out by just loosening the dash enough to pop it out? Specifically, how is it attached? There is a thread here about how to do it without removing the dash or windshield. Im a little bit leary about cutting it up for removal.

    FTanner, I wouldnt think it would cost more than a couple hundred MAX assuming you delivered it to a trimmer out of the car. The pod takes five minutes to remove. The challenge is finding the right color match for the leather. I consider myself lucky as I found a 4"X4" swatch of dark brown leather floating behind my pod when fixing my tach. Im going to send it to GAHH or World upholstery to match for the upper vent piece.
     
  21. jim94-348

    jim94-348 Formula Junior
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    You can loosen the dash up and get it out. There is a tab in the middle that has to be removed or if you get the dash back a couple inches you can bend it or break it off. That is all I did to get mine out. I didn't cut up the piece under the leather since you will need a template to make the replacement. I have a Tandy leather within a couple hours of me and so I just went there and found an exact match. It happened to be on sale and only cost me $99. I think made a new piece to mount it to out of 1/4" plywood and covered it myself. It is very easy to do. I'll try to do a write up over the holiday on how to recover it. I paid the first time to have it done professionally and it was only about $500 when I supplied to leather. It is so easy I just did it myself this time.
     
  22. jim94-348

    jim94-348 Formula Junior
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    It was $200. I'll post pictures when I get a chance but it looks great.
     
  23. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Veteran
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    I believe I read on the chat that someone replaced the upper dash base with aluminum.


    Ago
     
  24. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    #24 Melvok, Dec 9, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  25. okiedude

    okiedude Formula 3

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    Great writeup, hope I don't need it (any time soon):)
     

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