What do you clean your aluminum parts with?

I concur with the Simple Green and a toothbrush but not the Scotchbrite, it can scratch the aluminum. The Simple Green can be harmful to aluminum if left in contact for long periods (hours/days), and it must be rinsed well but will get the job done nicely--use less dilution if you have a lot of buildup. I use it often on the TR. Rinse with hot water and blow out all areas with compressed air. A parts cleaning brush works better than scotchbrite (won't scratch). Aerosol Brake Parts Cleaner can knock off the initial sludge and dries almost instantly--watch your paint. Another option is spray-on Super Purple which is like Simple Green only slightly more caustic--use rubber gloves with this stuff.

Having said all that, my go-to for bare aluminum is usually lacquer thinner--use in a well-ventilated area but it will get off most anything, including paint.

I'm anxious to hear how your FD rebuild goes, I saw the rebuild kits popping up on eBay lately and am wondering if that is a good way to go vs. sending them out to a pro.

 

You know there is a lot of water in Simple Green, and Simple Green is a mild acid. To clean something you are going to use acids, caustics, or elbow grease.

 

I've used coke and a toothbrush on my BMWs (Coca Cola, not the white stuff)

 

It's no wonder an engine out service costs $10K

 

I use Tough Stuff...red/yellow can...water based detergent aerosol spray on rough aluminum.
Oxy clean spray is also good.
On polished aluminum...Nuvite.
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This was the go to product on my Aluminum Kirkham

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tpjPDtAJDOI

 

I use Simple Green on everything except POLISHED aluminum.
Cast parts, engine paint, chassis paint, no problem.
I rinse with water and blow-dry with compressed air. No big deal.
I do cover and/or seal delicate electronics but that is all.
I've been doing this to various cars I've owned over the last 20 years with no problems, and each one started right up after the engine bay clean-up process.

I wouldn't recommend it on your external paint and would hesitate to use it on plexiglas without testing first.

 

Are you using the multi-purpose foam cleaner Tough-Stuff? I Googled it and that's what came up....

Engine bay looks great BTW...

Mike

 

Yes thats it....Very Mild, must be used successivly...meaning about 3 or 4 applications ,
Must leave about a minute on so it can sink in...then I wipe with micro fibre cloths.
I have tried everything this stuff is my fav.
all purpose product..works great on interior too...

 

Ferraristi,

Before / After with only using simple green and a tooth brush and lots of elbow grease.

None of the castings are painted. The simple green really brings out the shine.


Shamile

Freeze....Miami Vice!
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Ferraristi,

Don't dilute it. Buy a high quality ZEP spray bottle from Home Depot and spray full strength while brushing with the toothbrush. Don't wash it off but use old pieces of cloth to wipe it up. Only after you completely finish, wash it down with water to neutralize any remaining chemical.


Shamile

Freeze...Miami Vice!

 

I clean all my alumimium parts using glass bead in a blast cabinet. This sheen polishes and seals the surface to prevent easy marking. Any method that opens the pores of the surface is bad news. The finished part comes out with a regular factory finish, and it's really quick to do.

 

Will a flat 12 fit in your blast cabinet?

 

Ferraristi,

Haha.....I was thinking the same thing lol


Shamile

Freeze...Miami Vice!

 

in my blast cabinet it will fit, but only dismanteled
but this I do only when I overhaul a complete engine
and it is a lot of work to close all holes and also to clean after because the dust is all over

 

Why would any normal human being (and i use the word normal rather loosely) into a blast cabinet?? Abrasive cleaning is a last resort when it comes to cleaning aluminium and even more so when it comes to a 12 cylinder. One word ......liquid laundry soap diluted to spray out of a bottle of spray tank. Rinse in hot water and you have a clean 12 cylinder!!!

 

The title of the thread is how do you clean alumimium parts. If the alumimium parts are corroded soap and water will take forever. Depending on the part glass bead at low pressure is a very gentle way of cleaning the part leaving a factory finish. The glass beads are silky to touch, not like grit.

 

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My Dino engine rocker covers, cylinder heads cleaned with glass bead

 

but the glass beads are going everywhere and you have to clean carefully. more than once it happened that some of those beads going intot he oilsystem and soon after you have damaged crankshaft

 

yes don't use glass bead on assembled parts and make sure everything is very clean afterwards before reassembly.

 

You don't use glass beads on aluminum period. Glass beads (or any abrasive matter for all purposes) have a nasty habit of imbedding into the pores of the metal. Even after a cleaning some stay behind. Once the metal is heated again, they free themselves and move into the lubricants and coolants to play havoc with your new parts. If you have to use an abrasive you might try walnut shells or plastic media. I prefer cleaning aluminum with a secret formula you find in the store shelves. Been around for years and works to remove all the crap without harm to the metal.