I'm trying to figure out why my ashtray amber markers (both side) do not light up when I open the road lights. I have partly dismantled the lhs door to have access to the marker connector and there is no power going in. So I am wondering where to test afterward to try find the problem. Someone has an idea? Where should I test on the fuse board? I have the Scuderia Rampante version. TIA
The +12V power to run the TR instrument lights and the TR ashtray lights leaves the fuse-relay panel via the two white wires in the x connector as identified here (but ignore the "remove..." note as this was for someone else with a fuse #13 blowing problem): Image Unavailable, Please Login However, if your instrument lights are working OK, the trouble/modification probably isn't there (as one white wire goes to the RH ashtray light and the other white wire goes to the instrument lights and is then daisy-chained over to the LH ashtray light). So, if the instrument lights are working OK, the next place to check is the door connectors -- the LH C1 door connector location is shown here: Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks Steeve, I located the C1 connector. There is no power on the white cables when I switch on the road light. When you are writing about the instrument lights are you refering to the backlight for the speedometer? Or the operating lights like the open hood marker? I seem to have lost the speedometer backlighting...
Instrument lights = backlights for the tachometer and speedometer. So if the instrument lights and the ashtray lights aren't working, it could be the connection in the x connector. If there's no +12V power on the male tab there, then check fuse #13 (although I hope that you would've done that before resorting to taking the door apart ). If fuse #13 is blown, it's probably due to the RH rear engine cover gas spring body rubbing against the engine cover edge.
This is getting interesting for me. I looked at the fuse, the 13th from the left of the fuse box. It was a 7.5 and it was burned. I replaced it with a 10 amps since I do not have a 7.5 on hand on a saturday night. I turned on the head light and got the back lighting working. I turn off the head lights. Happy as a clown I put back in place the light socket and new lamp on the door wires for that little amber light to come on... I turn the head light on and hear the fuse burn... What have I done?
I repeat: " If fuse #13 is blown, it's probably due to the RH rear engine cover gas spring body rubbing against the engine cover edge." Unplug the yellow wire from the bottom of the RH rear engine cover gas spring and replace fuse #13 -- if the trouble goes away = the gas spring body is rubbing (you can look for the wear scar too): http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/boxers-tr-m/374396-lighting-problem-fuse-keeps-blowing.html
Ok got it. I replace the 7.5 by a 15 since it is getting late and where I am a 7.5 is NLA at this hour. Took the wire off the gas spring. It works! Now what do I do about the gas spring? Is there an isulation to be put on it?? Oh! By the way, Steve, thanks a milion! And no I did not destroy my door just for that! I had to work the window from the inside...lol!
Post #24 in this thread: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/boxers-tr-m/238053-brake-lights-fuse-randomly-blows.html shows how I fixed mine (by bending the lower RH mounting tab over to match the LH side), but adding some form of "insulation" to the gas spring body (like shrink tubing) has been reported to also work. Do you also have a visible wear scar showing on the gas spring body?
I just put a piece of electrical tape on mine, where it usually rubs. Been working fine for the past many months. I'll fix it the right way when the spring gives out and I replace it.
Well, if I do It is not clear cut like yours. I'll experiment a little next week end after I buy a handful ful of 7.5 amps fuses. Image Unavailable, Please Login
No, just a six inch strip of electrical tape. It just rubs on the inside of the bonnet lid. It's the shiny stuff in this picture, if that helps. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Mine do. The engine cover struts were never the problem the front cover struts were. I have replaced them on some cars but I still see many originals.
Mine are original too (rear) though I had them re-serviced last year. They definitely seem to hold up (pun intended). You are definitely right about the fronts.
Hi Tim, Sorry for the delay. I bought the car in 2009from an AD. They were ok then as they are today. As others here the front one is another story. I'll have to change that one.
Ok. Now to put an end to this I did put a new 7.5 fuse in place and black electric tape on my gas spring body...It works! Thanks Steeve. I'll do the mounting bending a little later. The End.
