Fuse panel to ashtray amber marker: The sequel | FerrariChat

Fuse panel to ashtray amber marker: The sequel

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by UpNorth, Mar 15, 2015.

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  1. UpNorth

    UpNorth Formula 3
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    #1 UpNorth, Mar 15, 2015
    In a preceding episode in a time nor far, far away I followed Steve Magnusson instructions and solved my left side ashtray amber marker problem. During that exercice I bought 2 new amber LEDs from Superbrightled.com to replace the old lamps.
    After repairing what caused the 7.5 amps fuse to blow, insulating the engine cover right side gas spring with black duct tape, I replaced the left side amber marker with a new LED and all worked great.
    Today I decided to replace the burned right side ashtray amber marker. To my surprise after taking away the ashtray I found the marker right under it, out of its socket.
    I took out the old light, then checked if electricity went up to the socket. It does. I put in the LED...and the fuse blows up...WTF?
    I took out the LED, changed the fuse and everything else works ok.
    Is there a potential problem downstream from this socket?
    Anybody has an idea what I should look for?
     
  2. 302Tim

    302Tim Formula 3

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    #2 302Tim, Mar 15, 2015
    That lamp gets +12V power from a bianco (white) wire that runs from the lamp to pin #7 in connector C9 (behind the RH front hood latch), then to the "W" connector on the fuse panel, then on to fuse #13. It actually branches off the bianco wire (at "W") that powers the LH lamp so that should indicate no issues within the fuse panel (since your LH lamp is working). I would check for a short to ground somewhere along the white wire. From the lamp it goes through the inside of the door into the cabin, so some possible "pinch" spots there. Then into the door jamb and up to C9. I would disconnect C9 and do an ohms check from the lamp to the disconnected C9 (pin #7). If that's good the problem should be from C9 to the "W" connector.
     
  3. UpNorth

    UpNorth Formula 3
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    #3 UpNorth, Mar 15, 2015
    Thanks Tim,
    That's a lot to digest for me, the pencil pusher.
    When you mention that the wire is going into the cabin do you know if it's suppose to bring power to something in particular?
     
  4. 302Tim

    302Tim Formula 3

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    #4 302Tim, Mar 15, 2015
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2015
    After reading your description again it sounds like a different problem. So with no bulb installed and the fuse replaced everything works fine? And when you installed the LED it blew the fuse? What wattage is the LED you installed?

    It looks like the correct bulb is an OSRAM (or equivalent) 12/1.2 (12 volts, 1.2 watts), and the base is a T1-3/4 mini wedge base. If the wrong size LEDs were installed adding the second probably exceeded the fuses capacity (I think fuse #13 is 7.5 amps).
     
  5. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #5 Steve Magnusson, Mar 15, 2015
    And what if you just use the stock incandescent bulb -- does that work without blowing the fuse, or does it not work, or does it blow the fuse too?
     
  6. godabitibi

    godabitibi F1 Veteran
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    #6 godabitibi, Mar 15, 2015
    The socket is probably the problem. When you push the lamp in the 2 contacts must short together. There is no other logical answer in my head. Or the LED is faulty.
     
  7. UpNorth

    UpNorth Formula 3
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    #7 UpNorth, Mar 16, 2015
    I'm away from the car for the week.
    But when I made some testing yesterday I remember that when the socket was in place without bulb in it the rest of the lights worked fine.
    And with the old bulb in place all the rest of the lights worked fine except that bulb.
    I didn't try the old and new bulb in the left hand socket yet (because I have to open the door card again, grr..).
    The new bulb is the same model as the one I put in the left door marker, and it works fine on that side. Could it be like Claude says the socket that is faulty? Or that precise bulb?
     
  8. 302Tim

    302Tim Formula 3

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    #8 302Tim, Mar 16, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Could be either but that's a pretty simple socket. I would try a correct 12/1.2 bulb. For myself I would not put an LED there--the incandescent bulb provides a nice glow that's not too distracting--an LED is (obviously) brighter and typically whiter, with a less omni-directional lighting arc, not what I would be looking for. There are other good applications (like the floor console red flood lights and roof console interior lights) but not there (for me). I was able to source the standard bulb at Kragen/O'Reillys auto parts, I'm sure you can locate easily there in the North.

    You should be able to reach the other side without removing the door panel. With the ash tray removed reach through (or have your daughter--that's what I do for confined spaces) and pull the socket out of the lens or (as shown in the picture) release the locking tab on the amber lens and pull it out with the socket still installed.

    Let us know what you find out.
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  9. UpNorth

    UpNorth Formula 3
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    #9 UpNorth, Mar 16, 2015
    Tim,
    Thanks, I will check this out.
    As for the LED I already installed on the left side; I used an amber one not a white one. And there are LED on three side so it is not unidirectional. I must say that it looks good!
    Will get back next week.
     
  10. UpNorth

    UpNorth Formula 3
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    #10 UpNorth, Mar 22, 2015
    Solved!😎

    Yesterday I went back in the garage with a handfull of 7.5 amps fuses and bulbs.

    First, I replaced the fuse. Then I replaced the LED in the left side ashtray with the right hand side that made the fuse blow. With the right side socket empty and the right side LED now in the left side socket I turn the lights on...zap...blew the fuse! Ah! Gotcha!😅
    I replace the fuse, take the LED out, put in place "period correct" bulbs on both side....It works!

    Thanks to Tim, Steeve and Claude. Hope one day I'll be able to help another noob. 😃

    The only thing is that I followed what was suggested in the equivalence thread...Going into Tim direction maybe the LEDs were ok until I plugged in both of them and it was just too much for the circuit; blowing both fuse and one of the LED. Comments?😐
     
  11. godabitibi

    godabitibi F1 Veteran
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    #11 godabitibi, Mar 22, 2015
    LED are supposed to use MUCH less amps. On the ones I've tested for proper replacement they were drawing 6 to 10 times less amps. Makes no sense only two make the fuse blow. One of them must be defective.
     
  12. UpNorth

    UpNorth Formula 3
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    #12 UpNorth, Mar 22, 2015
    I must agree. I'm just sorry I bought LEDs thinking it would be more reliable.😡
     
  13. godabitibi

    godabitibi F1 Veteran
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    #13 godabitibi, Mar 22, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    François, I'm fairly new to the Testarossa world but looking at your pictures I think you didn't had to remove all the parts to get to that bulb. The amber lens is designed to be pulled out by the top. The little tab is made to be pulled back to unlock from the armrest and slide out.

    Maybe you knew, I don't know? But I wanted to point it out for others who may want to replace the bulb and are scared to remove the door panel.

    Just be carefull not to break the tab, after many years the plastic can be brittle.
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  14. UpNorth

    UpNorth Formula 3
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    #14 UpNorth, Mar 22, 2015
    Claude,
    I learned that no later than yesterday...lol!
    Thanks!
     

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