Headlight Electrical Issue | FerrariChat

Headlight Electrical Issue

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by jim94-348, Apr 27, 2015.

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  1. jim94-348

    jim94-348 Formula Junior
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    When I turn the headlights on they go up come on fine with the car off. When the car is running they go up and down independently with no cadence or logic to them. They take about 5-10 seconds after it starts before this happens. I'm not sure where to start trying to troubleshoot. Any ideas would be appreciated.
     
  2. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #2 Steve Magnusson, Apr 27, 2015
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2015
    And none of us have a clue either ;) (Definitely haven't had this ever reported before since FChat opened, or even before FList opened.)

    Please give little more detail -- are you saying that with the engine running, when you turn the headlights "on", the pods come up together, but after a few seconds they both start quasi-continuously "winking" asynchronously?
     
  3. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

    Apr 6, 2008
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    same problem I once had with a triumph TR7. it was as if the car is laughing at you :)

    have a look at the "stop switches", may be bad contact and during engine running or driving the vibration give bad/no conatct?

    are both sides open and close separately or equal at the same time?
     
  4. jim94-348

    jim94-348 Formula Junior
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    Sorry, funny how when you are typing this it makes perfect sense to you but if you haven't seen the issue you leave a lot out. Let me see if I can be a little more thorough.

    If the car is not running I can turn the lights on and both headlights come on and stay up like they should. They stay in the upright position. When I start the car with them on they stay up for a few seconds like they should and then the left or right headlight will go down and back up intermittently. They could both do it or one and then the other. No logic to that. It is random.

    I'm certain it is a grounding issue since it is intermittent and I get a few other funky things. I sometimes see the defrost light blink as well which further leads me to believe it is a ground. Can anyone tell me where the ground is located for the instrument cluster and for the headlights? From the schematic I see that relays D, E, and F control the headlights. Since the headlights are both doing it and at different times it doesn't lead me to think it is a relay.

    Some more background, I purchased the car 6 months ago. I have had the motor out and a done the belts along with everything else that needed to be done. They were 12 years old so I did not run it at night to test them with the car running. As I mention they work fine with the car off. The instrument cluster has been out as well to recover the cluster leather. Any ideas would be appreciated.
     
  5. 302Tim

    302Tim Formula 3

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    #5 302Tim, Apr 28, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Jim,
    The easiest to check is just to the right of the windshield wash reservoir under the hood. I believe this is the main ground for all the front end components (lights and lifting motors). There may be others by the lifting motors but I don't recall seeing them when I had the front bumper off. If a ground issue this is most likely it.
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  6. JohnMH

    JohnMH Formula 3

    Jan 28, 2004
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    My 91 'winks' at me with its passenger side eye. I rotate the stalk on the column, both headlights come up together. Then the passenger side one goes down and then comes back up again (and stays up after that single wink). I changed the passenger side headlight motor and wonder if I mixed up the wiring. Another tech friend of mine thinks it could be the contacts in the switch on the steering column (logical).

    Have you done any recent work to the headlight assemblies or switches?
     
  7. 302Tim

    302Tim Formula 3

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    #7 302Tim, Apr 28, 2015
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  8. 302Tim

    302Tim Formula 3

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    #8 302Tim, Apr 28, 2015
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    Here are the lift motor connections (I think only accessible with the bumper removed). Also, the second photo shows a single ground wire that is a spade connector in one of those plastic connectors--another possible loose connection in the grounding circuit but unlikely IMO since both motors are acting up. This wire should go to the ground I showed above (I think).
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  9. jim94-348

    jim94-348 Formula Junior
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    I just checked the grounds next to the washer fluid. Someone had put a star washer on first, the terminals next and finally the nut. I wire brushed them and put it back correctly but the same problem. It is better as the right side headlight stays up much longer. I'll try the grounds on the passenger foot well at lunch. Here is a video of the problem so you can see what it is doing.

    http://youtu.be/No0LfXEDHYE
     
  10. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    #10 Melvok, Apr 28, 2015
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  11. jim94-348

    jim94-348 Formula Junior
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    Where is this connector? I don't see it near the headlights even when they are up.
     
  12. jim94-348

    jim94-348 Formula Junior
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    #12 jim94-348, Apr 28, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I just checked all the grounds on the connector in the foot well and they looked fine. I remove each connection, wire brushed it and hit it with contact cleaner and no change. There are five spade connections on the strip and a few empty that look like they may have had a connection at one time. Can anyone tell me how many they have?
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  13. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Not sure that I'd be so sure about that, and since you report other electrical problems = that does seem a little more like a "global" problem rather than a singular "local" problem, but they are very easy to rule in-or-out by just trying some different ones of the same flavor -- try a different "Headlight Lifting Motor Control Relay (D)" first IMO (since both of the pods seem to be possessed ;) - trouble at relay E or F would just affect that pod only).

    The ground signal(s) to these relays also pass thru the "b" white connector (middle of the three on the RH side) -- so wouldn't hurt to give that an unplug/inspect/replug too if cleaning the various ground connections to the chassis doesn't solve it.

    Did you also refresh where the multiple male spade strip connects to the large stud in your picture?
     
  14. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    Yeah ... often forgotten :)
     
  15. 302Tim

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    Jim, all the H/L lift motor connectors are right by the motors and extremely hard to see or get to with the bumper installed (even with the headlight pods removed--you can access the mounting bolts but the connections are still hard to see/reach). My photos are from the bottom looking up with the bumper removed. If you need to remove the bumper let me know and I'll walk you through that--there are some intricacies.

    Concur with Steve on swapping relays and or fuse panel--I would go there next. The two 2-wire H/L motor connectors are pretty robust--not likely to shake loose. The single ground spade connection between the motor and the chassis could be corroded but is not likely loose as the plastic housing will not fasten correctly if the spade connection is not tight and the housing has tabs inside that keep the wires connected. Worth checking just the same but IMO unlikely both sides would be bad.

    Ferrari realized the vulnerability of the electrical connections...on the 512TR many connections were converted to weatherpak-type.
     
  16. 302Tim

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    #16 302Tim, Apr 28, 2015
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    Just remembered there is another "gang" ground just forward of the battery for the RH lights and lifting motor--check that one too. It is on the vertical frame just forward of the battery hold-down bolt.
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  17. jim94-348

    jim94-348 Formula Junior
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    #17 jim94-348, Apr 28, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I spent lunch playing with this. Still no success but I did replace the door lock actuator as well so that is one positive note. Here is what I have done so far:
    1) Cleaned the terminal next to the window fluid. Wire brushed all connections.
    2) Cleaned the spade terminals under the foot well.
    3) Removed the nuts on the spade terminal bracket, wired brushed them, and reinstalled.
    4) At lunch I swapped the relays around. No affect. I just saw the posts that said to do this so we are all on the same page.

    Since it is intermittent and only when the car is running it makes sense to me that something is pulling it down enough to drop out the relay. I am going to leave checking the connectors at the headlights for last since I have to pull the bumper and it seems like least likely since it is both headlights.

    I am going to try jumping out relay D with a jumper on 30 to 87 and see if it stays on. That would tell me that something is pulling down relay D. I would also like to try cleaning the white connector B. Which one is it on this diagram? Steve mentioned the 3rd connector in the middle but there are only two rows of two that I see.
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  18. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    It's the middle one of the three vertical white connectors under the two large wires below fuse #1.
     
  19. jim94-348

    jim94-348 Formula Junior
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    Using jumpers I have narrowed it down. It is not a grounding problem as I see it. I check connector be and all the pins look good. They are clean and no burns spots. In fact not brown spots on any of the connectors! I tried jumping out relays and I narrowed it down to relay F for the left hand lifter motor. I noticed that the left hand light comes up appears to lose power and they goes down and comes back up. This happens a few times and then the right hand side starts.

    I found that jumpering relay F terminals 30 to 87 to bypass the relay causes the problem to start again. Since the coil is out of the circuit in the relay it has to be something in the headlight motor or motor circuit that is creating the problem. Is there a limit switch or something for this light/motor that would cause the power to be disrupted? If it is up and I pull the jumper it stays up. If the circuit is jumpered to keep 12 V to it, it should maintain power.
     
  20. 302Tim

    302Tim Formula 3

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    As you can tell all eight grounds on mine are used but I have an aftermarket amp. and some other electrical "junk" behind my dash that are using one or more of the ground tabs. The floor console uses one or two, and I think the center instrument cluster as well as the main cluster.

    You'll be shocked but the WD doesn't clearly show what grounds at that one location.
     
  21. SVCalifornia

    SVCalifornia Formula 3
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    Noisy power can cause it as well. Car running may be putting a lot of noise from the alternator into the power circuits. The lights do appear to see dropouts as the car is started and running so power and/or grounds are noisy.

    Jumpering in clean battery power may tell you if the circuit beyond the relays is ok. Need a second car battery to do that.

    SV
     
  22. jim94-348

    jim94-348 Formula Junior
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    I'll check the alternator ground but when running and no load I had a steady voltage two the motor on terminals 30 & 87. I'll try to check it with the load.
     
  23. jim94-348

    jim94-348 Formula Junior
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    One more update. I just held the light at the up position and it did not sequence up and down. The right side stays up until I release the left. I could tell there was no power at the top and the light sags when I release it. It then begins cycling again. I saw another post that mentions adjusting micro limit switches. I can take the bumper off but does anyone have a picture of where they are and how they need to be adjusted?
     
  24. 302Tim

    302Tim Formula 3

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    Just to be clear these are not grounds for the headlights, only your instruments and cabin electronics. Are you still having issues with your defrost light?

    To my knowledge there are no external micro-switches. There are rubber tipped bolts to adjust headlight pod opening/closing limits but no external micro-switches. I suspect those are internal to the lift motors.
     
  25. Spasso

    Spasso F1 World Champ

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    I remember reading about this issue in the 308 section about 10 or 12 years ago.
    To correct the problem a small electrical component had to be replaced on each motor.

    - For the life of me I can't remember what it was called, possibly a DIODE, but it controlled the direction of the current during operation, stopping the lift cycle from proceeding into the lowering cycle..

    * Maybe this description will ring a bell with somebody well versed in electronics.
     

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