Natural continue from my 512BB thread http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/boxers-tr-m/451351-my-512bb-diy-thread.html So bought a Testarossa, never really intended, offer was good and what can you do... First things first: While cleaning interior I dismantle seat and most parts out I keep finding these hand writen "Tested 20h 75-80Celsius" obviesly it has something to do with baking all blastic parts, but does anyone else have idea what are these? Car is "monospecchio" car first registration 02.01.1986 (day/month/year) that is cleary first day of year and there for can be written intension. Car VIN is ZFFTA17B000063111 Image Unavailable, Please Login
First thing I do was change diffrential out, just to make me sleep better. Nice to see one in good order. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The Italian workers were not in the habit of making notes in English. You should ask whoever has been working on the car prior to your ownership.
Diff was very tight, backlash was .05 to .07mm and even so that with cold gearbox there was significant resistance when rotated. Paint with original diff was good. I shimmed new Forza components -diffrential more loose in to spec. Diffrential carrier had odd thing, I do not know yeat; when this car was left from factory, but carriers are made two months after cars firts registration. (do note that first registration is oddly in first day in year.) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Some notes to other that might change their diff; Do not worry about oil seals that have rotation marked, F-pimp only sell one rotation seals, rotation is not relevant anymore with modern seals. Original bearing race, can be hard to get out, but with new race, it gets easier. Do not use aerosol freezer substance, but instead: freeze water to shape of race (over night) with your old bearing race and after you give your diffrential carrier asetylen torch heating, drop that correct shape ice cube over race and after that slam carrier to block of wood, like it is instructed in workshop manual, it works like a dream and falls out every time. and you need that cluch allighment tool, there are two clutch plates and is is really hard to allighn all parts when clutch is installed again, I made my own with lathe, but correct remanufactured tool is much better. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yes, no means those markins are from factory, because it's English, but why would anyone "Test" parts like that? Car has came from Germany, but I suspect car has Dutch history (found some label in Dutch language)
Maybe the first oem diff was once collapsed already, like in mine In that case you have a new one in of that date ... looks right ! Now a nice Forza Components Diff ! Very good that you could perform that exchange by yourself, included the right shimming !
Hi Mikael, Guess what - I saw those markings on my car the other day. I took the door card off - and sure enough that (or something very similar) was written on that plastic door holder. I just can`t remember now if mine said Celcius, Centrigrade or just C. I assumed it was maybe something to do with testing for how well it holds up for heat damage / deformation? Might be completely unrelated to that of course! My car is a monospecchio too - with a registration date of 12th February 1986 - yet my chassis number is 61571. That would mean my car was registered after yours but has an earlier chassis number - or could this be down to a different way that cars destined for the UK / RHD are numbered? Dom.
Could be, All other engine parts have casting date way more 1985 and pinion or crown do not have any other markins then "A320 -.0.10"
Yes, it could be plastic part manufacturer that has baked parts to deform or age them from srinkage. Or test each part to hold intact when cabin get's heat from sun.
- although for our part of the world it would have been more appropriate to test for frost damage! We barely get enough heat to melt an ice-cream Nice work btw!
...or we never start without warm up system; to day we had +17C There is this great lyrics in one Finnish rock song: "Here is long, cold, dark winter and summer is included"
So... Diff was instaled. Next thing was to get car ready for yearly ispection; last one was made 2010 and no wonder because CO% levels was around 8-9% Open few fuel parts, found issue and finally adjusted system. result was: CO: 1,62 (max 4,50) % HC: 262 (max 1000) ppm CO2: 12,60 O2: 1.31 (max 5,00)% Car started to feel like diffrent car. (here in pictures just checking result after some driving) Image Unavailable, Please Login
Next thing was to get some driving. after 150km's driven in Finland, I participated Nordic Ferrari Club meeting in Norway. In weekend I drove 2300km and changed oil from gearbox. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Well not so good... For some reason left driveshaft oil seal was leaking during travel. I changed new one in and even new one is now leaking. Right side is good. If anyone have have idea, go ahed comments are welcome. My thougts are; -Flange can be worn and for some reason it causes this. -Flange is not rotating correctly, flange is little loose over new diff, I have two new diffrentials here and over one flange is little loose, that is in car right now and on other one, flange is tight. I will mesure flange rotation on next few days. -Sure hope new bearing on diff can't do anything like this... I think in that case you could feel or hear something like that? One thing is sure; there are something wrong, because second seal attleast should work.
you are sure the seal is leaking? and not the oil is going between the flange and the diff because you have not sealed the screw where the flange is fastened?
Also during trip I had noise issue from wheel, first I thought it was wheel bearing but finally I concluded; Wheel adapter, that was made by last owner had issue with center bolt angle to car shaft and wheel got loose. Wheels them self look great after I painted them matte black. Adapter agle was all over ie. not made with correct accuracy. But I send my spare to the presision tool maker and they got means to mesure spare wheel angle and it was surprice to me; it's not 50 decree and for reason. Mesured angle is 49 decree 43min 50s ...and adapters where 49,01' to 49,06 now they are similar to spare wheel and for now they seem to hold. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I am sure; I have plenty of sealant and made tool for holding flange secure when setting correct torgue to the bolt. (Made it from broken cv joint) And flange would then leak inside CV joint not from flange shaft. Good point though. EDIT. and last time I open flange out; oil was sure coming out from seal.
btw. that other diff is to my 512BB and I am not driving one meter with it before I have change old one out... Next thing I found during gear oil change (what I did after one hour after getting home from Norway, and got clean oil out) I hapend to take a look inside internals and found this... Does this mean I have some new gears in? is 7/98 date code or ratio?(That is not a bad thing, since next thing after diff failure you can have gear failure on BB/TR and I got fixed one all ready) Car was sold to Finland around year 2000 Image Unavailable, Please Login
119806 is second gear and the 7/98 seems to be july 1998, but those gears from F never had a date on. so may be aftermarket gear? the stamp looks very professional, but also the original F number is on and that is why I wonder? also I see on the gear where you see the sibgle teeth that one tooth is broken or even damaged a little? or may I see this wrong? the gearbox itself is made in 1985 as I see, right? about the seal left side: youhave the rightsealing ring? I know it is a stupid question, but normaly when this sel is new it will not leak. or is the cover broken??? have an exactly look please
I also have a leak on left side since I've done my diff. Where did you ordered your seal? One think I saw is OEM seals had a rotation writen on them so the left and right are different. On the new ones nothing was written.
