who does the work on a TR by himself

Since I've owned the car, I've had the Major Service, fluids and mouse belt done at a dealer (part of recall). I'm currently doing the clutch myself. I'm also planning on refurbishing the brake calipers soon.

I must admit, nothing so far is hard but definitely requires patients. Clutch alignment particularly was a real PITA.

 

I bought my 91 TR with the full intention to work on it myself. In fact, knowing that it needs future belt service, I bought and install a two post lift. Dealership would charge 7k plus, the lift cost under 2k. So far it's been a total pleasure and learning experience working on the TR.

The crew on this forum has been EXTREMELY helpful in solving some of my complex issues. You're in good hands with pros of this forum.

Good Luck.

Eric

 

Yes, this is in total contrast to the value threads I very much appreciate everyone's help around here.

 

I wish I had the skill set and the tools to take on the major work but sadly i don't. I have taken on a few small projects thanks to the great help here (which has given me huge satisfaction) but the big stuff i have to pay the experts for....

 

I try to do the work myself,but i must say my flat twelves been really reliable so far.
Nice to know that there are a lot of people helping out if something goes wrong.
Fantastic forum..

 

+1

 

I have a trick for that Sam that does not require any tools.


Phil

 

Using the transfer case spline? Trust me I tried it. Took hours and broke my back doing it Finally got it done but man what a pain.

 

Yep, proud (or stupid) to say that I do ALL my own mechanicals on the three testicle roasters that I have. What a PITA these cars are, but thanks to the forum and some clever guys on here, it's been a joy.

 

All the work, No. Most of the work, yes! I also know when to back off and have a pro step in. A Fcar can be en expensive learning curve if you dont have the tools and or knowledge. Thankfully, this forum has been an invaluable resource in keeping down maintenance.

 

Argh.....I was in your shoes and I feel for you brother. I had to redo my clutch after a small leak. The second time getting the pumpkin back on was soooo much easier because I knew how and where it could bind up.

 

I have done everything myself including engine out with the help of people on this forum. However, I did order half a hide and dyed it myself but had an expert sew the pieces onto the dash after I pulled everything out.

Tom

 

I do. I do all of it. Paint,body,engine, trans, machine work, welding etc. Why? I think a lot of owners here do the the work themselves. We aren't those wimpy owners that spend gobs of money on our TR's. We are men !!!

 

Done everything myself except the engine out (and starter rebuild), as I'm sure as you can all tell by my "Gah! How do I fix this?" threads!

 

I do ALL myself. No matter what.

 

I've done all my MX so far (5 years). Next up: ball joints and suspension bushings (and engine out service). Looking forward to it all...

 

Hi Joe, good thread!

First off I don't blame anyone who wants to take their car to a shop for anything it needs. If you don't have the time, it shouldn't mean you have to miss out on driving and owning a Testarossa, which is what it's all for at the end of the day.

I think not too many years ago you would be seen as "cheap" and almost looked down on to do the work on what is perceived to be such an exotic and complicated machine.

So maybe brainwashed a little into only letting the shop touch the car - and I think that's where the perception that the Testarossa is expensive to maintain comes from....

Now though I think the current generation of owners are wiser and more down to earth - and know the previous way of thinking is no longer right. Yes it's mega exotic but definitely not complicated!

While there's still great shops around to take care of the cars for those who don't want to or can't do the work themselves, I think being able to work on the car yourself is a big reason why some ppl choose a Testarossa over something more modern.

I seriously would think twice about driving any number of late model cars because I know I would probably not be able to fix them myself if anything went wrong!

Like others have said, my Testarossa too has been mega reliable. Partly I think it's because I bought it with high mileage, so has had it's problems ironed out before my ownership.

I do all mechanical work myself. I bought it due for an engine out and did this and the waterpump - and to be honest it was miles easier than working on my old 308 and made my Merak seem like the most complicated car on earth!

They were both great cars but the Testarossa is so simple that after a very short period of ownership and maintenance, you feel like you know the car inside out - and that gives me so much more peace of mind owning and driving it.


This forum was so much help with buying and working on it - all without ever having to ask a question! Just the basic info is so valuable - like knowing to put new Hill engineering tensioner bearings on when I did the major.

I hope the forum gives people more of an influence to work on the car themselves if they have been thinking about it but so far haven't due to confidence or even thinking that they just "shouldn't" on a Testarossa.

Yes you can!

Have to say though I leave any paint issues to a shop. Again, it's great that people can do that themselves too - but I think that is one skill you either have or you don't - and I don't lol.

Have fun with your Testarossa's!


Dom.

 

Here's what I've learnt regarding the bell housing realignment:

-Pilot bearing ID is ~15mm
-Spine end that engages with the pilot bearing is a transition fit (OD ~15mm)
-Tool provided with clutch from Clutchmasters is made for Toyota clutches and measures OD~14.85mm. This is likely what Shamile referred to as "not perfect" and why Kerrywittig suggested one wrap of tape to make up the difference.

IMO, that's not the problem though. The real issue is that the tool DOES NOT ensure the alignment is STRAIGHT (perpendicular to flywheel). The spline shaft however cannot go through otherwise since there are so many other features (studs, quill shaft, oil pipes) that also require alignment. I don’t think any tool regardless of how close it is to the actual spline will prevent this from happening, it will just limit the amount of offset angle. Even the internal radial clearance of the pilot bearing will allow for too much angular misalignment and prevent an easy slide in.

Here's a solution I tried that worked.

1) Use the tool to get approximate alignment between the two clutch plates and pilot bearing.
2) Keep all pressure plate nuts loose but enough to clamp the clutch plates in position. (Philwozza suggestion)
3) Put gearbox in 1st or Reverse.
4) Insert the bell housing and rock the car back and forth. It should slide right in. This will help the quill shaft also align itself. Make sure you have the O-rings and silicon sealant around the oil pipes because this is it.
5) Whilst holding the flywheel firm through the timing slot, tighten the pressure plate nuts through access slots using a 13mm wrench (high quality tools work since they're thinner in OD).
6) Turn the flywheel using a large flathead screwdriver until you have them all done.

I did not have a torque wrench for this but I experimented with other bolts of the same torque to get a good feel. Flywheel was rotated 3 times and the nuts marked to ensure all were tight.

James (Veedub00) came over to help me bleed the clutch system after trying to do it myself using a vacuum pump. Thanks again bud.

I'll post a more detailed description of the entire job with photos in the "Throwout Bearing" thread.

 

Will there be photo's of this rocking back and forth thing???? I am sooo into it!!!

 

I was going to type "only with your mumma" but decided it would not be appropriate

 

Clutch alignment with no tool....

Fasten the clutch to the flywheel loosely so that it can be moved only just manually.
Fit the bell housing (clutch housing) and because the clutch is still slightly moveable the splines should match up with just a little grunt.
Back the clutch housing off a half inch.
Squeeze a thin spanner into the gap and tighten a couple of the clutch bolts.
Gently remove clutch housing, tighten and torque all clutch bolts.
Refit the clutch housing.

Beer

 

Idea for a new bumper sticker:

"If you see this Testarossa rockin', don't come a' knockin'"

 

I bought the Testarossa because it was my dream car. Everyone told me not to - I needed a "starter Ferrari" first, they said - a 308/328. Why, I asked. No one had a good answer for me, only than that they were "difficult to maintain". Maybe naively, I said "It is just metal, plastic, and rubber like any other car. I have tools and a multi-meter. There are no complicated computers/electronics to worry about." So far, knocking on wood, the TR has been very reliable. Over the almost 9 years I have owned the car I have only had to do fluid changes, brakes, and a couple little electrical fixes. Preventative maintenance - Helm's fuse box and gold connector kit were added.

I bought the car needing a major and a clutch @ 27K miles. Due to its location and a known good shop, I had the the work done prior to shipping it home to me. The second major was done last year by Pocono Sportscars. I had Jim do it because of his reputation on the forum here and he does awesome work for a very fair price. That and a surprise acquisition took up the garage space I needed to do the work at home. The next major - if time and space allow - I will tackle. If not, it will definitely go back to Jim @ Pocono.

My car now has just over 46K miles on it. A fuel pump gave me a slight buzzing the other day on start up when I was 250 miles from home! That is the next project for the car. While I am in there all the fuel lines will be checked/replaced.

With all the help here on this forum from current and past owners, the few pros that check in occasionally, and a couple accomplished local acquaintances, I have little fear in tackling anything on the TR (except body and paint).

Special recognition to Steve Magnussen for all the electrical help he provides us.

Whether you work on them yourself or not - please drive them and enjoy them. Let the value will take care of itself.

This thread needs a picture

Curtis
76802
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

^^^
Curtis, I've done the fuel pumps. They're relatively cheap and easy to do if you have a lift. I did not so I struggled for a bit.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/boxers-tr-m/441462-bringing-tr-out-hibernation.html