Hi all, Yesterday I decided to go for a nice ride with the TR. Filled her up and went on route 381 for a very, very nice ride. Everything worked fine! Came back home. I then decide to wash the old girl. After wash I let her sit in the driveway for a couple hours. Then I tried to fire it up. Oh boy! Usually this car fires up at first crank and idles smoothly. Now I have to crank and leave my foot on the pedal just a little so it won't stall. If I push the pedal it will go up in rev but rough...and I can smell gas. As soon as I let the pedal alone it dies. At one point yesterday I tought there is water somewhere so lets go for a ride and probably wind and heat will make water evaporate. But after a 15 minute ride it would still stall. I let it sit in the garage overnight. But its the same today. I can always start it again but rough and I have to leave foot on the pedal if I don't want it to stall. Its a F113A engine in an 85 euro model. I'm at the cottage so about 100 kilometers from my mecanics. Is there something I could try before calling a flat bed? Thanks in advance
remove the distributor caps and blow the water out, dry the rotor, put a little contact spray in the caps, put all together, start and drive. may be also take the ignition wire from the coil to the distributor out and dry the contacts.
I mean remove the distributor cap, not only the plastic cover of the cap inside I think it is wet? check this please
check the plugs on top of the water sensors between the fuel distributors and towards the front of the engine.
Doesnt mean water could not have been ingested behind the cap. If ya have tools, loosen the caps blow them out and let her sit. You got water into something that doesnt like water. No need to call the flat bed yet.
Ok. Unscrewed them both. Doesn't look too bad. What do you think? I didn't see trace of water in there. I'll let them open like that for the night. Is it possible that just humid air inside there without visible trace of water can alter functionality? Image Unavailable, Please Login
James, You mean that one? If so I didn't see water or humidity there. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Right rear corner just behined the right rear wheel well in the engine bay, the round connectors. Unscrew and check there. If ok, remove the box they attach to, and open it up. You will find a large silver relay with a fuse on the top of it 10amp. Check it and see if it's popped.
Guys - The OP stated having an F113A engine TR (K-Jet without Lambda). It doesn't have any of the injection electrics that KE-Jet TR have (no protection relay, no round connectors, no triangular black box, no 2-channel thermistor on the water Y-pipe -- although a protection relay might have been added if it was converted to K-Jet with quasi-Lambda for importation). OP - Is it still a completely stock euro F113A or was/were some engine modifications made/required for importation to Canada?
that looks not bad francois but only a little humidity could make such problems. I once had the same and dried the caps and all was ok again.but I wonder a little, looks all dry?
Second, as you could see in a pic a little earlier there is nothing over the right wheel well. All I can see is something over the LEFT wheel well. See pic. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Good morning Romano, I replaced the distributors after leaving them open all night. The is in the garage, very dry. I tryed to start the engine with same result... I started engine 3-4 times. Always the same. It fires up but sputer and dies. When I push the accelerator I get the motor up to 3000 rpm but with many hiccups. When I leave take my foot off the accelerator it dies. One thing I observed. After this try I touched the mufflers and the pipes coming from the right side where cooler than the one on the left side.
what you understand under: the pipes....? the end pipes or the manifolds? left side endpipes coming from the right cylinder bank and vice versa. if you mean the endpipes then the left cylinder bank is not running well or even not running. you told us it happened after washing? so somewhere is water or humidity. you may check the ignition ecu on the aluminum where the coil is mounted. may be you change left and right side to see what will happen? I don´t think so. all happened after washing
No it is not the endpipes. I mean the pipes between manifold and muffler. So when I say right pipes its about the right side of engine. I will try the swap tomorrow.
yes; You lost half engine, power module is cause. You can try pulling out each at the time, coil wire from coil to distributor and see if it gets worse or stay similar, when you start, that way you can determ which side is the one you have lost.
Ok. I think we are getting closer to the problem. See picture below. I disconnected red wire under the right 124273. Started TR and same rough condition. I repluged it. Then I unpluged the left one. Cranked the car. Engine turned but no ignition at all! So, I understand 124273 on the right side is in problem, right? What's next for me? Is it to order a new 124273? Or try to figure out if it is power ecu or coil that is the problem? And one last concern, with all this cranking am I flooding cylinders on the right side that could cause another kind of problem? Thank you all for your patience with me! Image Unavailable, Please Login
Power module is cheap fix for this, usually coil never brokes, so go to you nearest auto part shop and ask: HUCO 13 8083 or MAGNETI MARELLI BKL3C or almost any power module will do just fine. last time I bought one for 20€ that worked just fine and still does. Fuel will vapor out there while oil heats up, but if you want to play safe; change oil (I can't know how much you have cranked car)
