Shifting Issues

when you can shift normaly in idling then the adjustment from the switch lever to the gearbox is right adjusted.

if all would be ok the clutch is always going the same way., independent if you drive short time, long time or the engine only is idling.

what do you understand under "very hard"? normaly the first cm/inch the pedal is soft until there comes pressure to the system. then it is getting harder, but all the way down then the same. may be they have not tightend all the screws and bolts from the clutch? I don´t think so, but nobody knows. even the clutch has to be replaced, this getting harder has nothing to do with a worn clutch. but when this problem has been before also why you not told the mechanic when changing the diff ( wise decision ! ! ! ) to have a look at this problem?

when you start driving the car and press the clutch pedal and release it slowly, when will the car start moving? when the pedal is completely down it is 100 %, when you have your foot off the pedal it is 0 %. normaly the car may start moving when the pedal is between 70 % and 40 %

if the way is changing then there is air in the system and you have to bleed the hydaulic system

 

From my understanding, the clutch was not touched, right? Only the Major (belts etc) and diff changed, yes?

The clutch fluid however would have been either changed or topped up and the system bled as Turbo mentioned. Does the peddle feel the same? I know it may be hard to tell after 3.5 months

Could the new diff cause the syncros to be out of line (not enough slip)? From my understanding, the gear oil, additives or diff clutch setting could contribute to this. Just a guess.

 

Hmmm, could it be siezing on the spline?
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no, never, because it is getting harder when driving.

this problem is really strange and until now I never had this problem at a F.
may be the hydraulic hose is bent somewhere or drilled and during driving this hose is moving? only an idea. I had this problem once with my BB, but there the holder for the clutch slave cylinder was tighten too much and the piston could not move free.

 

Frank, If you sent me a PM I didnt get it.

Two thoughts:
First, air/wrong type of fluid. Try bleeding it at the bell housing.
Second, if you look at page 28 of the parts catalog, specifically sealing ring #28. When I did my clutch, this sealing ring, when installed, made it near impossible for the TO bearing to slide up and down the shaft. It was too tight and the little return springs ran out of 'spring'. I replaced all the rubber gaskets with a set from Recambi and it fit fine. This is working under the assumption that they replaced the seals on the TO bearing while apart and got one that was out of spec.

 

Go back and have them readjust the linkage in / with your shifter.

Whenever I've done an engine out I've had the same issues, the force / pressure of driving may have shifted the engine/ cradle just enough to misalign , hence the hard shifting. Now that the engine and cradle have settled you should be fine.

Easy fix.

 

Well ... with all these well meant advises: we would like to hear the solution ...

 

It's possible when they put the clutch back in, they lost one of the small shims that go in the post holes, which is causing the clutch to go diagonal and binding. We fought this issue for almost a week on a car, turns out the new clutch had made it though QC without one of the shims, we used one of the originals and fixed the clutch immediately, but we ran into very similar symptoms as you describe. We thought it could have been an air bubble problem, bled the clutch repeatedly to no avail, replaced slave cylinder thinking that might have failed, adjusted pedal as much as possible, tried building shims because we felt like the clutch wasn't disengaging far enough, etc. We probably removed and reinstalled the clutch 5-6 times to try to figure it out before we noticed one of these shims missing. Instantly fixed the problem, and worth checking if you're going to be in there doing diagnostic.

 

Do you happen to have made photo's please ? Or show us the part in the appr table ?

 

Wow, good idea. I think you can look through the bell housing and visually check without too much hassle.

Mel table #28 of the parts manual on the Recambi site and part #11 shows the spacers.

 

when those shims part # 11 are missing or only 1 is missing then this all has nothing to do with the clutch pedal going harder when driving and will be ok when standing. then the clutch pedal is always same hard or soft.

 

These can be inspected through the access slots yeh?
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We never tried, we discovered it after pulling the clutch for the nth time, I'm trying to think about whether it would be possible to detect if one was missing with the clutch in place, and honestly can't say for sure...as memory serves, I'm thinking that they would be very hard to see sitting in the car through the inspection because of where they sit in the recess, but don't take my word as gospel.

 

Absolutely correct Romano !

 

What oil have they used Frank, we always use Redline NS version.

P

 

+1
Check the flexible braided line from the frame to the bell housing for kinks.
We had this, similar symptoms.

 

bleed the clutch hydraulic system...again

 

Owwwwwwwwwwwwww silly

 

Frank it may not be the oil causing the problem but I think you will be pleasantly surprised how much better the gears shift with the Redline oil.

P