Removing Fuel tanks on a Testarossa

Do you mean that you've confirmed the leak is coming from the (inaccessible) front side of the tank?

 

Hasn't been reported before AFAIK (and usually it's at the bottom of a tank where corrosion from disuse occurs) -- any chance that something was mounted to the back luggage wall inside the passenger compartment and an added screw pierced the tank (that has been reported before IIRC but maybe on other models)?

Can't really help with your original question...

 

I didn't think the tank had any lines on the front...

I have had fuel leaks from the back of the tank, but that was an overflow or vent line...

 

PM me your e-mail, I will send you what I can find on R&R of the fuel tank(s) though its not a drop out and push back in easy job IMO.
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The tanks being circles in red:
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If you think you drilled through it, is there any way to find out? Perhaps buy one of those endoscope cameras (Costco had then for $60!!! And they fit in a spark plug hole)...

If you drilled into it, perhaps some type of industrial plug would work...

Taking out the fuel tanks is a huge job, I would think, and you probably need single post lift...

I used a scissor lift for my major, and there is no way I could use that to get the tanks out, as they would hit the lift...

 

How about taking the trim off and getting to the tanks from inside the cabin? I obviously don't know what's between the cabin lining and tanks but could be worth a shot

PS. When I had a fuel leak, Ferrari quoted me $1200 just to remove the tanks. At $150/hr, it looks like an all day job. Luckily for me, it turned out to be the rubber return lines

 

There are a lot of hoses connected to the motor along the front of the motor...

I had to change one vent line 7 years ago and it took an entire day... Not a lot of room to work in...

Good luck!

Keep us posted.

Bo

 

The driver's side (Left Side) Tank isn't hard to remove, but the other side has the Air Conditioning plumbing going through it. Just disconnect cross-flow hose and fuel pumps, remove the tank scraps and out it comes. You cannot get to the tanks from inside the cabin. Is raw fuel getting into the cabin, or is it just intense fumes? Raw fuel would indicate a hole in the tank and a corresponding hole in the rear bulkhead - which would be from drilling a hole, etc.

 

I know years ago there were posts flying back and forth about the possibility of changing belts with the motor in/tanks out... In your opinion, can it be done? (Forget timing/shims/waterpump/yada/yada... just the belts)

 

I will try and get photos to go along with these directions to you today.

The evac and recharge portion will be the hard part, unless you have the equipment to do it.

E-mail coming your way!

S

 

I will try and get photos to go along with these directions to you today.

The evac and recharge portion will be the hard part, unless you have the equipment to do it.

E-mail coming your way!

S

 

No shortcuts. Tanks come out.

AC to fuel tanks only on some cat equipped cars (US, Saudi and late Swiss).

 

I'm not sure that the belts could be changed with the fuel tanks removed. I've heard that story too, but I've never heard first-hand accounts of it being done that way. I'm not sure if there would be sufficient room to remove the cam belt covers, as they have to slide off of studs, the rear bulkhead may be in the way. If it is possible that would be great for those folks who don't have the space or confidence to drop the engine cradle out. However verifying the valve clearances and doing any shimming would be a difficult.

 

Oh my god...that is an absolute hoot. I wonder what it would have taken to sent a spark in that there tank lol! I don't think I'd like to drill holes metal on metal into a gaseous environment like a fuel tank!

Don't drill any holes in the sheet rock or plaster at home!

 

I just had my carpet out for replacement along with the foam,(the fuel tank shelf area). I also added some rivets for some speaker box's that I incorporated. When you drill into the sheet metal, there is about 1/4 inch clearance before you hit the fuel cells. The tanks are fairly easy to drop. Drain, remove the pumps and cross feed, the big problem is accessing the side hoses for vapor and fuel return to remove, with the engine in the car. Then last is the final straps at the bottom. The tanks are fairly light when empty.

 

Scott,
What year is your TR? I have a spare driver's side tank for my '89 that has been both pressure tested and smoke tested. I had a leak two years ago that turned out not to be the tank, and had ordered the tank as a backup. If you are interested let me know.

 

So, I took a bunch of photos for you, showing the various major items that have to be removed in order to drop the tank.

FWIW, it's not a terribly difficult job as others have mentioned, but you will need the ability to get the car up high enough to clear the tank once removed.

Here are the pictures I could gather for you, hope they help:
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