Major complete... Car gurgles when shut off... | FerrariChat

Major complete... Car gurgles when shut off...

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by bpu699, Nov 6, 2016.

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  1. bpu699

    bpu699 F1 World Champ
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    #1 bpu699, Nov 6, 2016
    Ok. Car done. It runs... My two big concerns were hoping the water pump seal worked, and that the cam seals didn't leak... So far, no issues :).

    Two odd things...

    Car radiator overflow tank gurgles for about 3-5 seconds every time I shut the car off... Kind of like water pouring down your bath tub for that last 5 seconds. Bled the bleeders a couple times. Ran car with heat on. All the same. Car does seem to warm up quick with the water temp going past the mid mark. Fans aren't kicking on, but I don't recall at what point they do. Is this gurgling normal? I just don't the remember having it before.

    Other odd thing. The valves on the left bank seem more audible than on the right. Might be the acoustics of my garage, as the cars left side is close to a wall. Sound like the valves do on my 930, but that's air cooled and valve noise carries more... Valve tolerances were checked and adjusted if needed, and only two valves needed a shim change.

    I think the valve difference is just paranoia, but makes me wonder if it has anything to do with the gurgling...

    Random thoughts appreciated...
     
  2. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

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    #2 vincenzo, Nov 6, 2016
    All is well...

    Bleed it once or twice more - keep it topped up.

    drive it!

    Congrats,
    Vincenzo
     
  3. 302Tim

    302Tim Formula 3

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    #3 302Tim, Nov 6, 2016
    I would think your fans should be on before mid-mark (195*)--mine come on about a needle-width before...the gauge does go past half mark with the fans on for a brief time as it is cooling it down but the fans are running at this point.

    Definitely sounds like air. Did your fans eventually come on? Did you bleed at three locations (in the radiator aluminum lines and at the thermostat housing)?
     
  4. curtisc63

    curtisc63 Formula 3
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    #4 curtisc63, Nov 6, 2016
    Just for another data point, my fans kick on right at the mid point. The needle continues to rise about a needle width and then comes back below mid-line.

    Agree with above - bleed and bleed again and keep it topped off.
     
  5. bpu699

    bpu699 F1 World Champ
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    #5 bpu699, Nov 6, 2016
    My fans didn't come on... Will double check make sure I reconnected all the connectors...

    I was wiggling the connectors with the intent of cleaning them off, but had a hard time getting some of the fan ones loose... Might have disconnected it?

    Will check tomorrow...
     
  6. MM355

    MM355 Formula 3

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    #6 MM355, Nov 6, 2016
    check your fuse for that specific fan.
     
  7. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

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    #7 turbo-joe, Nov 7, 2016
    just jump the thermo switch at the right radiator to see if both fans will work

    I think there is still air in the system, air in the thermostat housing
    check if the radiators getting warm on the top and on the buttom
     
  8. carguy

    carguy F1 Rookie

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    #8 carguy, Nov 7, 2016
    I concur with other on this thread....there is still air in the cooling system....it will eventually clear out...but a couple more bleeds wouldn't hurt. There shouldn't be any valve train noise, check the exhaust system for any leaks.
     
  9. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

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    #9 turbo-joe, Nov 7, 2016
    sorry, I mean the left radiator
    I was confused because I put a second switch on my competition to the right radiator
     
  10. bpu699

    bpu699 F1 World Champ
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    #10 bpu699, Nov 7, 2016
    Didn't think of that... The donuts on the precats were kind of worn, but I didn't have new ones handy...

    When I first ran the car, I don't remember hearing it... As it warmed up and the temp needle went slightly past middle, it was noticeable...

    I checked the valve clearance multiple times, checked my notes, they were all fine and only 2 or 3 needed tiny shim adjustments.
     
  11. bpu699

    bpu699 F1 World Champ
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    #11 bpu699, Nov 8, 2016
    Ran car again, from cold. No noise from the cams... barely audible...

    I suspect that the oil was thinning out due to air in the radiators, and as the car ran hotter and past the midline mark, they became more audible...

    Will keep re-bleeding, and check to see why fans aren't going on...

    Also, I got my airpump system back up. Previously, from the dealer, belt was super loose. They advised to leave it that way... so that's how its been for 10 years.

    Now I hooked up a belt and put some tension on it. Car has a low level faint whistle from the pump on warm up. I assume that's what it is supposed to do...

    Also, as an FYI to the community: I put on an a slightly oversized alternator pulley to prevent the belt from being thrown off. Ferrari stopped making the retrofits for the flat belts a while ago. Alternator also had bearings replaced, comm looked like new (car has 14,000 miles). Now, when the car is started the alternator light comes on. You tap the throttle for a second, the RPM's go above a 1000 and come back down, light goes off and never comes back on... So, if you are throwing belts, this is a viable solution...
     
  12. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

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    #12 vincenzo, Nov 8, 2016
    If your air pump is still 'ok' - consider new check valves to keep the exhaust gases out of the pump. If you get ANY backflow, the pump will corrode into oblivion.

    Don't leave the belt loose. The dealer's comment was lame. Let the pump turn over as designed. Turning over will help purge any unwanted backflow and keep corrosion from freezing the vanes.

    The GM equivalent PN for the check valves is cheap and will protect your pump.

    The pumps are hard to get and very expensive.

    Cheers,
    Vincenzo
    PS: Are you confident on you bleeding procedure?
     
  13. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

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    #13 turbo-joe, Nov 8, 2016
    why you not disconnect this silly airpump?
    no need, only for gas inspection may be you use
    the euro cars don´t have such a pump
     
  14. carguy

    carguy F1 Rookie

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    #14 carguy, Nov 8, 2016
    I agree with Turbo-Joe. The air pump only runs at cold-start-up - to help get the exhaust temps & cats up to temp quicker. Once everything is warmed up the pump is dis-engaged. If it's not needed....I would disconnect it, remove the plumbing from the bottom of the cylinder heads, and make a couple of block-off plates to cover the ports. Removing the air pump and plumbing completely will take about 15 pounds off the weight of the car.
     
  15. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

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    #15 vincenzo, Nov 8, 2016
    Removal is a better solution than a loose belt - it preserves your pump.

    Conversely, it will reduce your resale and needlessly pollutes.

    Decisions, decisions....

    Cheers,
    Vincenzo
     
  16. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Veteran
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    #16 ago car nut, Nov 8, 2016
    You could also store the pump and re install at sale.
     
  17. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    #17 Melvok, Nov 10, 2016
    I took it completely off, welded the pipes ... no more problems ! :)
     
  18. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

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    #18 turbo-joe, Nov 10, 2016
    mel
    you had a US version?
     
  19. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    #19 Melvok, Nov 10, 2016
    EU version ...
     
  20. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

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    #20 turbo-joe, Nov 11, 2016
    did the EU version had such an air pump?
    never have seen this on an EU version also in the parts catalog can not find, only for US and CAN version
     

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