Gearbox sealant question

I use RTV for this cover, but only very thin. you only may use hylomar, but also only very thin

could you please tell me the part number of this viton O-ring?

 

to replace this O-ring you have to remove the cover 117790, and to pull out the shaft 111870 you have to remove the cover 107450

have fun with working

 

Yeah I've had that side cover off numerous times. Just use RTV. Clean both surfaces.

 

I just use Permatex Grey on a nice clean surface. Not too much as you don't want it in your travelling around in your gearbox. If you are really keen you can use a Viton Quad O Ring for a better more durable seal. I find it is better to exercise the O Ring with a socket as the shaft does not want to go in too easily. Good luck.
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What about Loctite anaerobic sealant 515?

 

I have always done the seal when the engine is out of the car John.
Does anyone know if there is enough room for the shift rod to come out so that the O Ring can be changed with the engine in the car?
I have been in to adjust the shift mechanism with engine in the car and the front LH set of extractors needed to be removed.
All the best.

 

You must remove the manifold to remove the side cover.

 

SB I do believe that there is a post on that from memory. It does require the LH/RH shift adjuster removed to allow it to go forward (once the shift forks are removed)
Then on reassembly of course; the shifter needs readjusting.

What I found inside of mine (gearbox) was a significant amount of excess black silicon had gathered round the GB pump intake filter, from previous work carried out! bit of a shock to see it in there, but no evidence of it getting past the filter.

Just a suggestion from what I found; the torque settings on the side plate after sealing and replace were not sufficient to seal the redline in there. as the weight of that side of the motor has only 1 close fitting lug to support the weight other than the 14 or so studs.
The wave washers are high tensile yes, but still thin enough to to transfer the small flat area of the hex nut through and into the cast alum. Not exactly a metal on metal torquing.

I had the pleasure of doing the job again after I leaked a Litre from the plate in 2 wks. 2nd time I used HT flat washers, and took the nuts to torque; using Permatex Grey. A smooth even thickness smear, then wipe away excess from non clamping faces. I left it for half an hr after torquing, then went over again 3Nmt more.
I put the weight on the engine mount straight away and let it sit for a day or so to cure.

I don't have any oil spots from any part of the car on the carpet now!

 

Would anyone recommend Loctite 515?

 

Yes.

 

Locktite would suggest 518 for that.

 

+1 - 518 has better tolerance to contamination, better gap filling capability, and is thixotropic (so stays in place better) than 515.

 

I am really glad you defined that word.

 

Could win at scrabble with that word

 

+1 518 works great. Apparently it is also thixotropic - which means if you step in a bucket of it it will likely pull your boot off Good to know the shaft can be removed with engine in as - thanks.

 

I haven't heard that word thixotropic for 45 years. Early 70s. lol

 

I learned on F-Chat that "THREEBOND" was best sealant for gearboxes. Is Loctite 518 the new top of the list?

I don't know if THREEBOND is thixotropic ?

 

I've used THREEBOND 1215 to seal gearbox about a year ago. I don't have any oil leaks.

 

Wow. Is this place informative or what? 2 pages to answer what sealant to use on a gearbox.

Thorough to say the least.

 

and gearbox leaking???
if not may be you have forgotten to fill oil in?
only joking