1990 TR Intermittent hot starter solenoid issue | FerrariChat

1990 TR Intermittent hot starter solenoid issue

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by Yenko, Jan 19, 2017.

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  1. Yenko

    Yenko Karting

    Jan 23, 2014
    113
    Florida, USA
    Full Name:
    Keith
    #1 Yenko, Jan 19, 2017
    I have owned my TR for 2 years without any problems. Today was a beautiful day in FL to take her out. I stopped at a restaurant had lunch and came out to leave and… nothing. Turn the key and not even a click. I tried about 8 times and nothing. Got out of the car made a call to a friend with a trailer got back in the car and tried one last time and it started without a problem. After getting home I tried again and nothing again and again. After the car sat for an hour it started right up.

    I checked the voltage at the starter and I had 12.6 volts so I seem to have a good connection. Any ideas??? Solenoid problem or god forbid ignition switch?
     
  2. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
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    Brian Crall
    #2 Rifledriver, Jan 19, 2017
    A simple search will yield a great deal of info. We talked about it quite recently. In my opinion it is very rarely a solenoid issue and it gets misdiagnosed.


    http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/boxers-tr-m/263151-starting-testarossa.html

    This is just one example. This is very heavily trodden ground. The short version is I was factory trained on them, I own one and have worked on them since 1985 and have yet to replace a single solenoid despite their supposed problematic nature.
     
  3. rpissm

    rpissm Formula 3

    Aug 11, 2013
    1,620
    Salt Lake City, UT
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    Joe
    #3 rpissm, Jan 19, 2017
    Yeah there are a lot of discussion around the hot start problem and fixes. Just look up my posts and you'll find plenty.

    Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk
     
  4. Yenko

    Yenko Karting

    Jan 23, 2014
    113
    Florida, USA
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    Keith
    #4 Yenko, Jan 19, 2017
    Thanks Guys.. you have at least given me a direction to run on. It doesn't look that hard to diagnose from what I am reading. I will report back next week after I drive her and heat her up, then do the tests.
     
  5. Yenko

    Yenko Karting

    Jan 23, 2014
    113
    Florida, USA
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    Keith
    #5 Yenko, Jan 19, 2017
    By the way, this is a Canadian TR.. I will assume the tests would be the same??? No crank, turn the key and nothing. Once it is cooled off it cranks great. I used to race Pontiacs and it acts like a heat soaked solenoid that was surrounded by headers.
     
  6. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Oct 31, 2003
    1,321
    Bradenton, Florida
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    Jim DeRespino
    #6 JIMBO, Jan 22, 2017
    On my 512TR it was an alarm "ignition kill" relay that was cut into the primary ignition to starter wire that intermittently was bad. Also check contacts in and out of fuse box (search prior posts for a wealth of information). There are a lot of areas that can give intermittent voltage to the solenoid. In an emergency you can take a small piece of wire and jump the 12 volts from the hot wire on the starter to the solenoid just to get her started and to get you home.
     
  7. Yenko

    Yenko Karting

    Jan 23, 2014
    113
    Florida, USA
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    Keith
    #7 Yenko, Jan 23, 2017
    Thanks for the reply Jimbo.. Jumping the starter solenoid reminds me of the good old days when you could do that with a screw driver on a 60's Ford. LOL

    The car still does have an old Clifford alarm installed. I wish it wasn't there but it is and I don't know anything about how they installed it so I have been hesitant to remove it. Great thought..

    I will be starting to run down all this information tonight hopefully. Everyone has been very helpful.
     
  8. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
    34,119
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    Brian Crall
    #8 Rifledriver, Jan 23, 2017
    Cliffords caused us more problems than any other 10 brands combined.
     
  9. Yenko

    Yenko Karting

    Jan 23, 2014
    113
    Florida, USA
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    Keith
    #9 Yenko, Jan 23, 2017
    That might be the problem then, but why only when hot? I "think" I need to explain my situation more clear as I read what you sent me earlier it pertains to cars that crank. My car isn't cranking when it is hot. As I turn the key to position 3 (crank) I don't hear the solenoid engage. I do see a change in the dash lights (slightly dimmer). Let the car cool down and it cranks and starts fine. This is why I first thought a heat soaked solenoid.

    Has this problem been addressed in the forum that you recall? I have searched and don't find it.
     
  10. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
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    Brian Crall
    #10 Rifledriver, Jan 23, 2017
    I gave you a link.
     
  11. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

    Apr 6, 2008
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    southwest germany and thailand
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    romano schwabel
    #11 turbo-joe, Jan 23, 2017
    just try the "srewdriver" system, if it works you know that the solenoid is ok, if not working you know what to change.
    I also had an equal problem once and it was a bad connection of the battery plus cable to the battery. after cleaning the connections I never had problems
     
  12. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    Jul 25, 2008
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    #12 Melvok, Jan 24, 2017
    I think Keith knows how to bridge it Romano :D !
     
  13. blown daytona

    blown daytona Formula 3

    Feb 6, 2008
    1,679
    maryland
    #13 blown daytona, Jan 24, 2017
    Like they said, try the screwdriver to isolate the solenoid or the car wiring. If it is the car, I would eliminate the alarm starter interupt first. You can leave the alarm in the car and put the start command wire back to how it left the factory. They had mine spliced behind the fuse panel. I had the same hot no crank issue. If you want to diagnose correctly though, you have to duplicate the condition and perform a voltage drop test to find where you are loosing voltage. Could get time consuming
     
  14. Yenko

    Yenko Karting

    Jan 23, 2014
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    Keith
    #14 Yenko, Jan 26, 2017
    I "think" you were pointing me in the direction of bypassing the plug under the coolant expansion tank???

    I disconnected and scuffed up both ends of the positive (battery and starter) cable, the plug under the coolant expansion tank and all wires on the solenoid. Everything appeared to be corrosion free but I did it regardless. So far, so good. Cranks and starts perfectly every time hot and cold, so far. I think it was the plug under the tank but cant be sure. if it happens again I will go with the spade connector bypass. Thank you for your input! You saved me a lot of time. If you are ever in Fort Myers, I will buy you lunch!
     
  15. rpissm

    rpissm Formula 3

    Aug 11, 2013
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    #15 rpissm, Jan 26, 2017
    Just note, if you do end up putting a relay in, do not put the press-in bosch style relay! It will eventually short out and keep your starter engaged!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  16. Yenko

    Yenko Karting

    Jan 23, 2014
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    Keith
    #16 Yenko, Jan 27, 2017
    Thanks Joe.. I think I will not take a chance on the relay and take the route of a spade connector on the white wire under the coolant tank. I am thinking the connection is poor as was suggested and was the culprit.

    If it wasn't for all you guys I would have been pulling my hair out on this one and I don't have much left! Thank you again to everyone.
     

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