Newbie - Need Help- First time Ferrari Testarossa owner

More likely on idle control valve issue, What year is your car ?
Nick

 

Or air leaks

 

Remove the floor mats.

 

Then you have no choice IMO but to inspect/fix the throttle cable and linkage system at the engine end and at the pedal end. If a strand of the cable pops, it can drag, or get hung up, on the guide sheath. Also, there are several adjustable ball joints in the linkage, and they can be mis-adjusted too tight. Good hunting! (Please do let us know what it is when you find the trouble -- this has not been reported as a typical/common TR problem.)

 

I didn't read your last line. Duh.

Steve is correct. I'd pay a lot of attention to the big throttle bellcrank under the coolant tank. I'd probably just take it out and service it. They have been known to get sticky and seize from lack of lubrication.

 

Yup! What he said. Had a similar kind of problem on my 328 just after buying it back in 2006.
Was solved by lubricating throttle control level.

 

Pop the air box off, and have an assistant operate the throttle. You will see the throttle shaft move. Follow the shaft at both ends to the throttle body linkage. Where it is binding will be very apparent. If all seems fine there, Disconnect the cable from the shaft, and feel for any binding buy manually moving it with your hand. If all feels good and everything snaps shut with authority, then your issue is forward of the engine.

Not a common issue, but should be an easy fix.

 

Throtle cable came off its reel on top of the engine ? (or is that 512TR "only")

 

1.Notchy gear change- I am going to change out the trans fluid to royal purple 75w90 (gl4 and gl5 safe)

2. Brakes are mushy- I am changing out the fluid to a new dot4 fluid (lucas)

3. Windows- Drivers and passengers are slow to come down- I will either buy new motors or clean and re assemble the originals. Does anyone have the part numbers for these?

4. Drivers side door seal looks a little worn out- id like to change this out



1. Notchy is normal, but I think it can be smoothed out with oil change.

2. Cant help

3. Known issue. The solution is to clean and repack the drive gears and there is a booster kit online for about $130 that also speeds up the process. But cleaning out the dried grease should be the first fix.

4. Normal wear item. I think member Kerrywittig(?) sells a reasonable alternative.

 

Start here:

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/technical-q/44288-lubricating-tr-window-motors-2.html

And here:
Rodney Dickman's Automotive Accessories

Gonna have to be paitent regarding #4. I dont know him, but give it a few days. He has develped some much needed TR products over the years.

 

mushy brakes: check the brake hoses

 

Royal purple: this was in the trans when I bought my car, it would not downshift as it was so slippery the syncro rings would not work.
Other folks here use redline or agip (do a search to check the grade).

Congratulations on the new car!
Andrew

 

I'm thinking you mean hose upgrades not line upgrades--yes, there are several vendors that offer steel braided hoses (I have not used them so can't offer any suggestions). I see them on ebay and sites like Superformance, Eurospares, etc. If you end up getting deeper (like caliper rebuilds) there are several posts in the archives that address this. As long as you are replacing brake fluid you should also purge the fluid out of the clutch (they share the same reservoir).

For door seals (just to clarify as there are several) are you talking about:
1) Round seal with flocking on cabin that seals door to cabin
2) Flat rubber seal sandwiched in window frame that seals window frame to cabin
3) Flat fuzzy strip that seals window to door panel/card
4) Flat rubber seal (in aluminum channel) that runs horizontal along top of door/base of window (fuzzy on inside)
5) V-shaped rubber seal that is fastened on bottom of door
6) Fuzzy seals that seal window glass inside door frame channel

LH window motor is PN 61510500 but as mentioned most can be significantly improved with disassembly, thorough clean and re-grease. Also window switch internal contact cleaning often helps. I did all that plus cleaned/re-greased all pulleys and cranks and added the Dickman modules (shortens the grounding path) and my windows operate smoothly and pretty quick (they weren't ever Honda quick, even when new)

For parts, create an icon on your desktop to Testarossa (1990) - Ricambi America, Inc. Whether you buy from them is up to you (Daniel is a great supporter/sponsor here on fChat) but the on-line reference is extremely helpful.

 

Agree with Tim regarding the window switches. The internal contacts can get gummed up. The 348 window switch is almost identical and can be had for less (ebay etc.). The lower portion is the same but the cover art on the rocker is different. So you can use the TR rocker portion of the button with the lower 348 switch.

 

The window motor gears should be cleaned, and new synthetic grease used. Cleaning the contacts on the window switches really helps, also the improved grounding issue. I found the biggest improvement on shifting came from changing the shifter bushings on the rod thru the console. And readjusting the shifter linkage. Many are out of adjustment.