91 TR - Door wiring harness | FerrariChat

91 TR - Door wiring harness

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by JohnMH, Feb 17, 2017.

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  1. JohnMH

    JohnMH Formula 3

    Jan 28, 2004
    1,632
    Dubai / Bologna
    Is the plug which connects the door wiring harness (power door locks, door light, etc) to the main harness inside the door or inside the dashboard (I.e, on what side of the rubber accordion protecting the wiring in the door hinge)?

    The small red light at the end of the door has a bad ground I need to sort out. Oddly, the 2 grounded wires bolted to the bottom inside of the door have a good connection, but that is obviously not where the courtesy lights are grounded.

    Finally, is there supposed to be a plastic sheet / vapour barrier between the inner panel of the door and the door itself? No part shows up on the diagrams. My car has no such plastic barrier.

    Kind regards to all.
     
  2. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    25,138
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
  3. JohnMH

    JohnMH Formula 3

    Jan 28, 2004
    1,632
    Dubai / Bologna
    Thanks. For some reason I bought the connector was inside the door.

    Any ideas if the courtesy lights connect to ground through the harness connector?
     
  4. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    25,138
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    Don't have the schematic with me. If the small round red light only has a single wire, then it must ground by contact between its metal housing and the door frame -- have you tried inspecting/cleaning that connection, or does the small red light have two wires going to it?
     
  5. JohnMH

    JohnMH Formula 3

    Jan 28, 2004
    1,632
    Dubai / Bologna
    Two wires. I will investigate the main connector under the hood tomorrow.
     
  6. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    25,138
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    Is the white light on the bottom face of the door also not working?
     
  7. 302Tim

    302Tim Formula 3

    Jul 2, 2011
    1,182
    Northern California
    Full Name:
    Tim
    If a ground issue you can isolate a bit by the multiple paths the black wire takes: from your inoperative red door light there are two black wires on one terminal: one goes to the white (bottom door) lamp, the other goes out the door to the C1 connector. From C1 it again branches into two paths: one wire goes to your door pin switch (on your car there are two switches in the jamb--the bottom one controls your lights and the top one controls the auto seat belts) and then on to provide a ground for the ignition key lamp. The other goes through the C8 connector (on far RH side of dashboard) up to the interior lamps on the roof console. Also at C8 a single wire goes similarly to the RH door and those door lamps. So that whole circuit becomes "grounded" when (one of) the doors are opened and the pin switch grounds to the door jamb.

    So check what is/is not working which will narrow down a faulty ground path. If all the above isn't working then I would look at the door pin switch. If the white door lamp works I would more suspect a power problem (vs. ground). If you need me to outline the power path let me know.

    And yes, your door originally had two black vinyl vapor barriers. I can post details on those if you'd like.
     
  8. JohnMH

    JohnMH Formula 3

    Jan 28, 2004
    1,632
    Dubai / Bologna
    Thanks!

    Neither white door underside light works (I have owned this car for almost a decade and never knew I had lights there until yesterday).

    The red courtesy light works on the passenger side only.

    As my car is a Swiss car, I have no belt mouse installation and only have one switch per side.

    The pin switches seem to work as the passenger side red light works when I open either door.

    I cannot recall if the light at the ignition key works (will check that today).

    In lieu of the original plastic seal (not sure I can find that anymore, but may have to find some sheeting make it) I am thinking of installing dynamat in its place. My car has no stereo but I am ok with that.

    If I want to remove the hardened grease from the window motor, do I need to remove all the cables and linkage? To do that might be to court disaster. I lubricated the window channels with silicone spray above and below the sill and the window got a little faster.
     
  9. JohnMH

    JohnMH Formula 3

    Jan 28, 2004
    1,632
    Dubai / Bologna
    Ok, problem is located, two wires inside the door wiring harness (ground and the red wire which leads to the white courtesy light under the door) are cut about 6 inches from the plug. Not sure how that happened.

    The door harness needs to come out and be repaired or replaced.

    So... how do I get the harness out? There is no room between the scuttle and the hood latch to work in that confined space to fix the broken wires and I cannot simply pull the harness out from the hood (plug) side.

    Something is keeping it from moving up and out when I feed wire in from the door hinge.

    Pushing it back into the door also will not work as the hole at the door hinge is too small for the 3x4 multi wire plug.

    Is there a dashboard removal in my future?
     
  10. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    25,138
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    Yeah -- that might be a small technical problem ;)

    I'd try taking some pretty desperate action to repair insitu knowing the dash project hassle. I can't recall if there is any easy access to the C1 area from the interior (and my fuzzy recollection is there isn't)-- maybe some prior posted pics of dash projects might show something, but I don't have anything specific.
     
  11. 302Tim

    302Tim Formula 3

    Jul 2, 2011
    1,182
    Northern California
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    Tim
    #11 302Tim, Feb 18, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    There is no easy access to C1. If the cuts are on the door side of the harness then it will be really difficult--you may need to remove the fender to access (see photo, fender is removed). If on the other side of the connector you will have more room as from the connector the harness is routed by the pedal box to the center of the bulkhead (behind the fuse box)--it looks like you could possibly pull it from behind the pedal box and then have 1-2 feet of harness free.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  12. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

    Apr 6, 2008
    8,929
    southwest germany and thailand
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    romano schwabel
    thank you for posting the photos.
    so without removing the fender it should be nearly impossible to get the complete wires out?
     
  13. JohnMH

    JohnMH Formula 3

    Jan 28, 2004
    1,632
    Dubai / Bologna
    That picture is definitely worth 1000 words. If I feed wire in from the hinge side, I should be able to pull it out a few more inches from the top inside the front trunk. A bit of sillicone spray may also help here. I am glad I saw this post, I was considering just buying a new harness. No easy fix.
     
  14. 302Tim

    302Tim Formula 3

    Jul 2, 2011
    1,182
    Northern California
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    Tim
    That's what I would try--You'll probably have to disconnect most/all the connections inside the door (I can't recall how much "slack" is in the harness wires) but with that done you should be able to push the harness into the jamb/fender area and create some slack--good luck!

    With the RN (red/black trace) wire cut you should also have no power to the door actuator--I assume it also isn't working? (when you insert the key and turn to open/close the drivers door does the passenger side actuator open/close?)
     
  15. JohnMH

    JohnMH Formula 3

    Jan 28, 2004
    1,632
    Dubai / Bologna
    That is correct, the door lock actuator also stopped working. I will try the silicone spray trick later this week.
     
  16. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    Jul 25, 2008
    14,115
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    Wooow ! Excellent photo Tim !
     

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