TR Door Lock Cylinder/Exterior Handle Removal

Crickets.


R

 

I've done this. I removed the lock cylinder, lock mechanism, lock actuator and door handle--just to generally clean-up and re-grease the mechanisms. It was a royal PITA, most frustrating job on the TR for me so far (which means I was probably doing it wrong). I did this with the window and window frame installed, I think it would be far easier with them removed. Came apart fairly easily, the trouble I had was with re-assembly (not much room for access). Plus I removed everything which you will not need to do. Getting the white nylon cap you referenced above snapped back on the lock mechanism ball was very difficult (for me). Here are the instructions I wrote after the fact but you may need to deviate once you get in there:

OUTER HANDLE
CAUTION: Due to close proximity, use care not to damage painted surfaces on door and/or horizontal strake when working in this area.

1. Fully loosen two countersunk Phillips head screws from door handle (they may remain captive by the rubber gasket). The screw heads have a heavy brush coat of anti-corrosive sealer applied from the factory; you may need to remove sealer to allow screwdriver to engage screws.
   

NOTE: the outer handle connects to the lock for door (inner door latch assembly) via a threaded steel rod and a white press-fit nylon sleeve. If the lock for door is already removed, the handle will now come out. If not, proceed to step 2 (or alternate step below).

1. Raise window fully.
   
2. [FONT=Calibri,sans-serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]Remove door panel.[/FONT]
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3. [FONT=Calibri,sans-serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]Remove outer watershield.[/FONT]
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4. [FONT=Calibri,sans-serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]Partially remove inner watershield.[/FONT]
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5. [FONT=Calibri,sans-serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]From inside door carefully pop sleeve off stud on lock for door (you may need to partially remove lock for door to allow better access). [/FONT]
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6. [FONT=Calibri,sans-serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]Carefully withdraw handle, attached linkage, and rod with sleeve as a complete unit.[/FONT]
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NOTE: space is confined and some maneuvering is required to withdraw. Use care not to damage finish on door or allow rod with sleeve to disengage handle and drop inside door.
**ALTERNATE STEP** (disconnecting linkage from door handle):
NOTE: this step is very difficult to accomplish with lock with keys installed—you may need to remove to provide adequate access.

1. With handle lowered, remove outboard Seeger/circlip,two flat washers and pin connecting linkage to handle. With the pin removed, rotate linkage down to allow slot in linkage to disengage with flat on rod with sleeve. Remove latch and linkage. If linkage still cannot be disengaged the remaining (inboard) Seeger/circlip/flat washer/pin can be removed to allow handle to befully removed.
   
2. [FONT=Calibri,sans-serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]Carefully remove handle. Take care to account for linkage as it can now become more easily detached from rod with sleeve. [/FONT]
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And to remove the lock with keys:

LOCK WITH KEY (lock barrel)
NOTE: access to the lock can be accomplished easier through the outer handle opening (remove HANDLE]handleHANDLE]). In addition, this option alleviates the need to open up the inner door.
If outer handle is removed:

1. Working through handle opening and using a suitable tool, loosen 30 mm nut securing lock to door until it is completely unthreaded from lock. The nut bears against a cylindrical cupped metal bezel.
   
2. [FONT=Calibri,sans-serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]Withdraw lock with keys from outside of door.[/FONT]
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CAUTION: as the lock is removed capture the nut and bezel through the opening or they will drop onto door strake and can damage the finish.
If outer handle is not removed:

1. Raise window fully.
   
2. [FONT=Calibri,sans-serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]Remove door panel.[/FONT]
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3. [FONT=Calibri,sans-serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]Remove outer watershield.[/FONT]
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4. [FONT=Calibri,sans-serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]Partially remove inner watershield.[/FONT]
   [/FONT]
5. [FONT=Calibri,sans-serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]Using a suitable tool, loosen 30 mm nut securing lock to door until it is completely unthreaded from lock. The nut bears against a cylindrical cupped metal bezel. [/FONT]
   [/FONT]
6. [FONT=Calibri,sans-serif][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]Withdraw lock with keys/lock gasket from outside of door. As the lock is removed, capture the nut and bezel from the inside or they will drop behind the outer handle[/FONT]
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[FONT=Calibri,sans-serif]CAUTION:[/FONT][FONT=Calibri,sans-serif] on installation, note that the lock has two locating bosses 180 degrees apart that align with notches in the door skin. Ensure the tabs are correctly engaged before tightening nut, and that the lock is oriented properly (outer bezel matches contour of door skin. Also ensure the inboard lock pin correctly engages in the slot of the lock for doors(inner latch assembly). Once reinstalled functionally test lock operation to ensure door locks/unlocks correctly.[/FONT]

As I recall I tried several methods but in the end I removed the seeger (circlip) and pin so the handle arm would rotate enough to allow the "keyed" (flat) end of the rod to come out of the handle (can't recall if the lock was installed at that time). (last photo).

The "suitable tool" I used was a small pair of channel-lock pliers with some duct tape wrapped around the jaws (so I wouldn't mar the nut). I saw an post years ago where Phil Worrel used an open ended spark plug wrench that he had adapted. The nut on my car wasn't too tight so you shouldn't have much trouble loosening.

 

When I had my ignition lock replaced - it came as a set(ignition, gas cap, and (2) door sets). My mechanic said it was almost impossible to get to the doors without a lot of manual labor/hours. Now I'm running around with (2) sets of keys - 1 for the doors, and the other for the ignition and gas cap.

Good for you that you are patient enough to tackle it.

 

Like I said, a Royal PITA--so much so that I still haven't done the drivers side...may never.

 

I hear you, my cylinders aren't in too bad a shape as a previous PO put in an alarm with remote door locking so I don't ever use a key. Anyway, glad I could help, now that you have done one the other (in theory) shouldn't be as bad....

 

Tim,

I think I speak for a lot of members here when I say you have the most clear, beautiful and inclusive TR mechanical photos anywhere. It would be a fantastic sticky in this forum.