Fuse box problem?

unplug all connectors and check if something is burned.
use contact spray when putting together all
remove all fuses and relais and check also

problems appear and disappear and none knws what it was - terrible situation

 

Careful with contact spray. In an unsealed environment that could make the problem worse. Pull the connectors and check them out. Make sure nothing is burned. Leaving burned connectors can bleed into adjacent circuits. If your connectors are burned it's time to pay the piper and do the Dave Helms fuse box modification. Well worth it. Isolate those high draw currents. High draw currents are:

Fuel pumps (2)
Radiator fans (2)
Oil cooling fan (1 even though it rarely turns on)
A/C condenser fan (1)

Dave Helms box isolates those circuits on a secondary fuse panel attached to existing fuse box. It works and it's a great solution. Would probably be one of the first things I would do if I got another TR.

R

 

TR had 1 oil cooler fan. 512 had none in the US model. Not sure about other markets.



I'd do what Romano suggested.

 

Corrected. Sorry had a spaz out moment. It's been a while.

R

 

I think it depends on what you mean by "oil cooing fan" -- TR has two physical oil fan motors, but just one oil fan motor circuit.

 

Greetings and correct. Numerically I was referring to circuits.

R

 

Gt car parts has a better solution to the fuse box. DH old news

 

No they don't. It's just cheaper. Not better.

R

 

+1

Look for any blackened/melted wires at the connectors into the fuse/relay board.
The bad connectors must be replaced but you also need to take the board apart and check for damage. The heat generated by the weak/corroded connector going ohmic will melt the solder and locally burn the board. If not damaged it can be soldered back up.

There are 2 white wires to check the connections of at the fuse/relay board for the starter circuit.
They run from the switch to the fuse board then back out to the starter solenoid.
If you have the WSM, the wiring diagrams show the circuit and locations on the connectors.
The spade connector at the starter solenoid can go bad also, check that for corrosion.

Firstly though, I suggest you check the ignition switch since I had exactly the problem you describe.
My ignition switch was replaced as it was dropping ~5V across the starter contact which was confirmed burned out when pulled apart. You can measure the voltage on the above mentioned white wire going into the fuse box from the ignition switch with a multimeter while starting (should see very close to battery voltage).
I was seeing 7-8V whilst the battery was at 12V and no start.

 

Turn the ground switch !

 

Never heard of or seen that box in any car. I would not put that in my car.

R

 

Why not?

 

I would rather have a circuit board vs the spaghetti of wires behind the box like that. You kidding right.

R

 

So, we are going to say that the "circuit board" of the stock TR is THE problem (it can't handle the current) and wires that can handle the current are "spaghetti"?

The problem here is that you may not understand the problem.

 

You need to understand that your problem is not your circuit board. It is not the plastic connector housing. These are all SYMPTOMS of a bad terminal that is crimped on the end of each wire that links your wiring to your fuse box. The AMP connectors used in the 328 and 512tr loose there grip to the blade coming out of the fuse box. As this gets loose, resistance builds (especially with the high amp circuits) and generates heat. This will THEN discolor your connectors, melt your wires, or damage the circuit board fuse box that Ferrari used. (The "spaghetti " would have been better)

You have options...
1)
If your fuse box is ok, you need to make sure the AMP connectors are tight. You will need to crimp new ones on. This assumes you know how to do it.
2). You buy the spaghetti box. However, you will still need to learn to crimp connectors because I am reading that he uses more secure ones . So you will still need to learn it.
3) spend big bucks with the Scuderia rapante box that moves the circuits off the board. But you can do this yourself without sending it to DH.

But all these will require that you know a little about soldering and crimping connectors on wires.

 

Wrong. The fuse box is barely enough to handle all the circuits out of the box. The older the car get the components get older and draw more current. That's the problem. You have to remove the high draw currents from the circuit board. Once you remove the high draws the existing box is fine. Sorry if I don't want a make shift circuit board using wires like that. The high draws should still be pulled away from the box. That's all I'm saying. That is a half ass solution. If any oution at all. Why all the dismissal of Dave Helms. I don't get it. Bottom line is you do what you want but don't tell me what the issues are with a TR. I'm not perfect or the know it all but I've done all the mods to sort her right and the results were indisputable. Almost 8 years and she still runs solid and strong. Not one issue as well as driven on a weekly basis. I don't half ass things and that box is half ass. Fuse box mod, gold kit, and Taylor ignition wires. The best thing I ever did to my TR.

R

 

I just think you are contradicting yourself. If we say the board is the problem, then the spaghetti wires are the best solution. No more circuit board. What "components " on the box are you saying are drawing more current?


The DH box is a hybrid. I am not dismissing that the hybrid is not a viable solution, but I can not agree that it would be better than the spaghetti. The "spaghetti " would be direct electrical connections. The down side would be the labor to create it vs a cheaper circuit board.

The reality is that the DH box is adding "spaghetti " to select circuits while letting the board handle the low amp circuits. Yep, spaghetti is added to improve the stock board. Ironic right?

I have made my very own "hybrid" in my car. I moved the AC, and radiator fans off of my main board. Trust me, I get the concept and ease.

But, in doing this my car gets an added side box. It definitely works. However, that "spaghetti " box would look stock and solve the problem. Not to mention it is over $1000 cheaper than the DH box.

It's just my opinion as someone who engineered their own box, even if mine is more like the DH solution. It cost me about $85. My stock FB now has 5amp fuses in place of the 20amps so I definitely have less current flowing through my box. If something was to fail on mine, it's an $85 dollar problem.

I am actually intrigued by the gt car parts board that is a single layer circuit board instead of the 3 layered stock one. It's the same "style" with out spaghetti, but then it's a circuit board again.

 

The the components meaning the fuel pumps, fans. Etc. I don't consider 6 wire as spaghetti. How much is the DH box. I paid under a grand some years back.

R

 

You guys might want to read this from 2013. My bowl of pasta Fusebox is still working flawless. It is not such a crazy idea and much better than Ferrari's foil boards that always fail. This thread talks about a solution and how it is done and getting heavy loads off the fusebox.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/456-550-575-sponsored-bradan/427763-fusebox-repair.html

 

Some people might think like that and I can understand that the wires look a bit awkward.

But we have been selling these fuseboxes all over the world for the past 8 years and none has failed so far.

The wires also have a very big advantage: it can be repaired easily. If you have a serious issue on a typical board, you can just throw it away. In our case, it's repaired easily.

And as you know, one of the issues with the standard boards is that they were not designed to cope with the current for the fuelpump, using these wires that problems has totally disappeared

Anyhow, we have over 50 customers from all over the world who are enjoying a reliable board, we even make them for the F40.