Caliper reconditioning and disc replacement

Section M in the TR WSM has most of the torque values IIRC (whatever its name, there is a specific section for tightening torques).

 

All torque specifications for the entire car are in section M.


Everything you need is there.

 

If you are referring to the torque value for the bolts that hold the caliper halves together they aren't listed in the WSM. I used the following reference from PMB Performance (they rebuild ATE calipers):

Torqueing caliper halves:
1. Number the fasteners from left to right 1-2-3-4
2. Initial torque to 17 lbs/ft. in this sequence: 2-3-1-4
3. Final torque to 29 lbs/ft. in this sequence: 2-3-1-4

As for replacing hardware, again, if you are referring to the bolts that hold the caliper halves together they are pretty unique and may not be easy to find: the front bolts have a round pan head and take a Ribe bit (kinda like a Torx). I suppose you could replace with a suitable Grade 8 Allen head bolt & nut. The rears are attached with Allen headed bolts but I don't know the dimensions. If yours are unusable (corroded?) and you can't locate replacements I suggest contacting PMB at www.pmbperformance.com, I'd bet they could hook you up with some replacements. I had them replate my calipers, spacers and hardware, then I did the rebuild--great company/workmanship/support (no affiliation).

The disk bolt torque should be listed in the WSM as Steve and Brian noted (sorry I don't have the value, my car had the later (non-bolted) disks. Anyway, good luck, let us know/see how it all works out.

 

Why not try Eurospares ? Or ask member Phil at Forza Components in U.K.

Nice thread, please document it with lots of detailed photo's so other members can learn to do it themselves.

 

it depends on how you are driving
normaly the limit is between 10 and 15 % less than original, so when new 32 mm then I would change them below 28 mm after grinding
but when you always go full power - full brake then replace when below 30 mm

 

If you have the OEM Brembo discs the wear limit is stamped along the outer edge of the disc--mine say 30mm. I agree with Romano, it depends on how you intend to drive but for non-track driving I personally would leave the discs on since you are having no issues. If you intend to keep the car for a long time I would also keep my eye out for replacements as the prices tend to vary rather steeply--sometimes you can find new OEM for ~$150 ea. but I've also seen them up around $400-600. I see them advertised more on the US version of eBay vs. the UK version.

Also if it's that obvious that one face has been ground more than the other, for even pad wear you may want to check/adjust caliper positioning over the rotor (adjusted by adding/subtracting shims on the mounting bolts between the caliper and hub).