Hey everyone! Hmmm, here's an odd thing. Just got back form getting some gas in the TR. Stopped at a stoplight. Out of nowhere my engine gets real quiet. Idle drops a few hundred RPM. Then it shoots back up to normal RPM. Back and forth, line a sine wave. Takes more gas to raise RPM enough to let out the clutch. As I get back home (1-2 miles away), it's back to normal. This happened once before, and it was the last time I took it out prior to this one, probably a week or so ago. I'm thinking fuel pressure would be the first thing to check. What do you guys think? And where should I hook the fuel pressure gauge up to? Return line to the tank? In to each fuel distributor? Pick an injector? Thanks, as always!
It sounds like one bank is going down then coming back. I think Steve Magnuson is better to walk you through this. It's been awhile since I've worked on the tr....so I don't want to misdirect you. I do believe it could be the tacometric relay or a module on top of the ignition coils. Pull and reset the harness to the modules on top of the coils and see. Shamile Freeze....Miami Vice! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
I had the same issue, the fix was the large C12 round connector in the right rear fender area. The locking ring was broken causing a bad connection between the pins.
Like this? https://youtu.be/BBMYtSt9yoA In my case, it was the coil module on top of the coil. Swap them over. If the engine turns but won't start, the it's likely your LH (driver side coil module). If the problem persists after swapping them back, then that's good confirmation. This is only from memory so yes, go with what Steve says.
Great to hear that you solved it. Just for info, when you say "exactly that" which post do you refer to? Mine was the same as ozziindaaus.
Sorry, I just meant that the video is exactly what my car is doing. I haven't done the coil swap yet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Like a hot chick telling you.... I like you....but as a friend. Kind of a let down there Rpissm lol Well, let us know how things progress. Shamile Freeze. . . Miami Vice! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
Apologies - I misunderstood. In my case when I did the first coil swap, the result was slightly different but the bank was still not ok. It turned out that lightening had struck twice and both coils were at different stages of being shot. Pulled the ones from the 550 to check, and it was indeed the case. Not suggesting that it will be the case, but just to say it does happen. Good luck with the hunt.
The problem also pretty much defines how a fuse box connection for the fuel pumps goes bad. Usually but not always a bad ignition transistor will just stop. It doesn't usually come and go. The pump connection at the fuse board does.
Coil modules, not the coils in my case http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/boxers-tr-m/529535-87-tr-rough-idle-stalling-surging.html Image Unavailable, Please Login
You might find this old thread on coils & modules helpful: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/boxers-tr-m/279017-testarossa-coil-module-thread.html
I had this happen to me in the first months of ownership. It was one of the 30? pin connectors on the passenger side of the engine. The locking ring had a crack in and thus under certain conditions, I would loose power. Back at home, I let it idle and giggled wires until I found the offender. Just another thing to check thats easy and free.
If it is the connector, its a $30 fix and about 1 hour of your time. I should have read the replies better....1trick6 and I had the same failure. But its cheap and easy to remedy.
Hey Christian, My fix was from your advice, just passing info along to others, which is why this forum is so great.
Hey everyone! So, I wiggled and jiggled everything electrical in the engine compartment. Nothing appeared loose. But on the plus side, I took the car on a ten mile drive and no problems! Do the coil modules degrade consistently over time, or do they do the works/doesnt work cycle until one or both give up the ghost? Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I've replaced both coil modules but don't remember them being intermittent. They just went out on me if I remember correctly. I do like Rifledriver ' s response about the fuel pump relays on the fuse box. Have you looked at them for melting plastic surrounding them? How about melting on those white connectors? Shamile Freeze. . . Miami Vice! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
In my case, the issue was intermittent, and so took a while to trace, and it showed itself only when the car was warm.
OK, took the TR on a cruise yesterday, everything was fine until... I smelled gas! I pulled over and checked vigorously for leaks under the car and in the engine compartment - nothing. Just a very faint smell of gas in the engine compartment. Nothing underneath, not even a smell. I was cruising at the time so I didn't notice a lack of power at that point. Drove it home. No gas smell. So I'm thinking that the problem is somewhere in the ignition system; the gas smell was because the gas was still pumping through the CIS, but wasn't getting ignited, so I was smelling it out my tailpipe. I figure if it happens again I'll stick my nose on the exhaust to see what side is having the problem! Do you guys have any suggestions to check? Thanks as always!
I don't know if this is relevant or not, but my car had both EHAs leaking. My mechanic indicated when the car was started there was a strong smell of gas which almost drove them out of the shop (perhaps a small bit of exaggeration). He indicated that the EHAs were more "sweating" gas as opposed to a steady stream. (That got me concerned as to whether this might actually start a fire - leaking gas on a hot engine is never good). The units have been sent back to CIS Flowtech so new ones can be recalibrated. There were some other issues that readers had found and I tried to reference them in the thread below. Might be that just one of the EHAs on your car is leaking. Just another possibility. http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/boxers-tr-m/552433-testarossa-ecu-disconnect-running-hot.html
Thanks for that tip too! I'll check out my fuel distributors and the supporting components too! I've since ordered a couple cheapie inductive tachs from ebay (Digital Engine Tach Tachometer Hour Meter Gauge Inductive 4 Racing Motorcycle E1 | eBay), expecting them any day now. You wrap a wire around a spark plug wire (similar to a timing light) and it calcs rpm. I figure I'll put one on each side of the engine and drive around. When I exhibit the problem, I'll see whether a tach has stopped responding; should at least give me a clue as to which side is crapping out ignition-wise, or if both are still working, that the problem is fuel-system related.