TR battery advice

How long has it been dead for? Lead acid batteries never come back if they've been dead for a long time (weeks)


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The stock TR battery size is the smallish Group 47 (but they had a reason to try to keep the weight down). If you want to go larger (I did and many do) use Group 34R. Group 27 is just way too big (I'm surprised that you could get it in/out as even a Group 34R is difficult).

 

could someone please put in here a link about the battery sizes you have in the US?

for example 27F and also 34R says nothing to me
here we have batteries described with how many Ah and max. Amp., then the dimensions and if + is left or right and also if the buttom has a high or a low "food" to fasten.

 

Just do an internet search on "BCI group battery sizes" or "BCI group battery chart" -- should get you a lot of links like these:

BatteryWeb, Inc. - BCI Group Numbers, Dimensional Specifications, Polarity and Terminals

https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/tools/bci-battery-group-sizes.html

http://www.dstgateway.com/ACDelcoDocuments/BatterySpecifications.pdf

(Group 34R is the same size as Group 34, but with the terminals reversed.)

 

Interstate 34r perfect fit.

 

thank you very much steve

the link with AC delco is great

 

How much was it in Dollars Tommy ? I guess a lot cheaper than an oem battery of around $ 450
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The red one was dead in my 458 Tommy, I replaced it with the non-oem one on the right side ... cost only $ 100. (although looks otherwise, exact same size and 74 AH capacity)

 

give thought to getting a deep cycle, RV battery... it is designed to deliver small amounts of power over a long time for accessories when the main engine is shut down... starting batteries are designed to deliver a large burst of power for a second or two as in a start, but fail miserably when they need to drip power over time ... the AH or ampere hour rating is the reserve capacity or the amount of power available, the more the better... especially for seldom driven cars, there will be more time before the battery gets drained... depending on usage it could eliminate messing with maintaner CCA spec are in the 650+ range of a std battery, while the reserve capacity can be 140AH or more which in most cases is double of a starting battery, allowing for more time to feed the accessories

 

I believe the above is wrong for a vehicle. Auto batteries use heavy current to start then are recharged by the alternator quickly. So they are short cycle.

 

I think so too David

 

that is what a starting battery is all about and what is wrong by trying to use a starting battery to power up the long list of accessories...

suggest becoming familiar with current battery technology to where disinformation is not being spread.

 

I will admit I don't know. But somewhere I read not to use a deep cycle battery in a vehicle that is driven regularly. If this is not true, I would welcome being corrected.

 

And use a digital loader every day ... they are cheap nowadays.

Picke up this one at a local stor for less than $ 40
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do some reading and become familiar with current battery technology... and not rely on out dated disinformation... you will quickly find that things have changed a lot, with many choices to refine the correct choice for the intended application... there is much more to a car battery than the 12V marked on it... the "old" lead acid battery can be the better battery of choice, even when compared to the new high priced exotic material batteries, depending on application and use... internal battery construction and materials can be skewed to favor particular application and use, which means one needs to understand what each specification of battery means... the 12V marking is only a beginning point to indicate what devices it will support, but nothing else about its' capabilities or use...

current technology deep cycle batteries are capable of delivering more than enough starting power ( an issue with prehistoric deep cycles )... again check the specs... the marine and RV industry has not used separate ( technology ) batteries for years, since the capabilities have been increased...

 

Any help ? What You Need To Know About Your RV Batteries - RV Information (RV Maintenance)

 

the article describes the traditional thinking on the use of deep cycle batteries, and is dated with respect with current offerings and standards. Current battery design and application bridges the differences between the two battery designs, new battery offerings include the best features of both designs into one battery... a hybrid battery that can deliver good starting qualities while supplying enough power for the various accessories for extended period of time without crashing... there is a new generation of hybrid batteries coming to market soon that will be OEM from the car mfg... making the traditional starting battery obsolete...

 

What will be your choice if new battery is needed now ?

 

my preference would be to look to a deep cycle construction for cars that are not used frequently, this type of construction allows for a small drain ( accessories ) for an extended period of time without having the battery crash... this value is represented in the AH capacity, the bigger the better... std wet cell construction offers the best value for on going durability... the AGM construction is fantastic... for daily use and other regular / demanding use, their short coming is neglect or under use, as in stored or seldom used cars... the AGM do not like to be ignored and left in discharged state or under charged, the AGM do not like being brought from a discharged state which leads to their premature failure... where as a std wet cell tolerates abuse of being left discharged much better and when it comes time to replace the cost is significantly less... one must also consider the car's charging system is in most cases designed around using std wet cell, the wet cell charging voltage is lower than any of the newer constructions available... while the labels read for 12V application, internally the AGM and other newer constructions need higher charge voltages to get to full 100%, prevent full charge and early failure... there is a lot more than the 12V on the label... while new technologies are better, supporting them for designed performance becomes a problem by not extracting 100% of the capabilities... kind of like building a high performance engine and using a single exhaust

 

the "normal" alternators with regulator are bringing between 14 and 14,4 V, so not only 12 V