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Old 05-19-2017, 08:15 AM
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My First Trip to the Shop how many more?

The top failed, only 1000 miles so far. The top has been operating intermittently for the last two weeks. It stops part way either up or down and about 15 minutes later the roof failure error will clear and it will finish the cycle. Yesterday I took it into the shop with a hard roof failure that wouldn't clear overnight, I tested it before I took it in. As soon as the tech sat in it and started it up, the roof failure had cleared and he could get it to go up and down. They kept it, will look for codes. In the meantime, I don't have my Ferrari and am stuck with the RR, sure wish I had been able to keep the 991tts.
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Old 05-19-2017, 12:03 PM
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Sorry to learn of your roof problem. I think you only had this new car for a month. If it's any consolation I had a bad battery along with various system errors 1 week after I picked up my new Cali30 - most of the problems were caused by the battery and the rest by a bad ignition module which did not affect driving, only the stop/start (HELE) feature.

I suspect you have a bad battery. These cars normally come over on container ships taking about a month. Do you think they keep all the cars on that boat on battery tenders? Right. So the batteries take a beating during the long trip. The dealer is then expected to prep the car for delivery when a buyer is found. I don't think the batteries are always properly checked and fully charged during that process. This is why so many new fcars have bad batteries. My car had an Italian battery that is not sold in NA so it clearly came over with the car.

Make sure you have a solid working properly spec'd battery because battery problems can create weird problems s and be very annoying to track down . IMO, new Fcar owners often go through an "initiation " to flush out incorrect assembly, dead batteries and bad component issues after taking delivery. If you then drive the car frequently enough you will flush out all the reliability issues and you will end up with a good car. After that it's just maintenance plus wear and tear. However if you bail out after you fix these issues the next owner benefits from your loss in depreciation and wasted efforts.

FWIW, battery problems are so important to me that I have 2 extra (heavy duty) CTEK chargers and I also have a battery tester similar to the one used by the dealers. It potentially saves me making silly visits to the dealer for potential battery issues.

Fcars have more character but they are also more complicated to own than Pcars. Good luck!
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Old 05-19-2017, 12:14 PM
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@wrs sorry to hear that man. hopefully they will get the error codes checked and maybe replace your battery.
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Old 05-19-2017, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 4th_gear View Post

Make sure you have a solid working properly spec'd battery because battery problems can create weird problems s and be very annoying to track down . IMO, new Fcar owners often go through an "initiation " to flush out incorrect assembly, dead batteries and bad component issues after taking delivery. If you then drive the car frequently enough you will flush out all the reliability issues and you will end up with a good car. After that it's just maintenance plus wear and tear. However if you bail out after you fix these issues the next owner benefits from your loss in depreciation and wasted efforts.

FWIW, battery problems are so important to me that I have 2 extra (heavy duty) CTEK chargers and I also have a battery tester similar to the one used by the dealers. It potentially saves me making silly visits to the dealer for potential battery issues.

Fcars have more character but they are also more complicated to own than Pcars. Good luck!
I will ask about the battery, thanks. I wouldn't bail out, my idea is that most of these cars don't get properly broken in because they are driven too infrequently. Notice I already have horrors, 1000 miles in one month.
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Old 05-20-2017, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by wrs View Post
I will ask about the battery, thanks. I wouldn't bail out, my idea is that most of these cars don't get properly broken in because they are driven too infrequently. Notice I already have horrors, 1000 miles in one month.
I agree drive the car. There are several of us that drive as much as possible I put 8.5K on mine the first summer (in MN short driving season).

I did have a roof not open once (happened several time in a week), I think it was do to the lid in the trunk that goes up and down. If its up it does not let the roof go down. I think the manual was holding it up just a hair. Removed the manual from the trunk, no issues. I do keep my car on the battery tender every time I park it for the night.

I always start the car before putting the roof up or down.

good luck with your car.
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Old 05-20-2017, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by good2go View Post
I agree drive the car. There are several of us that drive as much as possible I put 8.5K on mine the first summer (in MN short driving season).

I did have a roof not open once (happened several time in a week), I think it was do to the lid in the trunk that goes up and down. If its up it does not let the roof go down. I think the manual was holding it up just a hair. Removed the manual from the trunk, no issues. I do keep my car on the battery tender every time I park it for the night.

I always start the car before putting the roof up or down.

good luck with your car.
I don't use the battery tender but the tech said they checked the battery and it's not the issue. Apparently on new cars it's the first thing they check. I have rearranged stuff in the trunk repeatedly but I have convinced myself that isn't the problem. They reprogrammed it yesterday and were going to check the sensors if that didn't help. They didn't call me back, not sure if service is open today but I plan to call. Fortunately it's raining here this weekend so I am not missing a good driving opportunity and the RR loves the rain but I sure hate cleaning it after driving around on wet streets.
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Old 05-20-2017, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by wrs View Post
I don't use the battery tender but the tech said they checked the battery and it's not the issue. Apparently on new cars it's the first thing they check. I have rearranged stuff in the trunk repeatedly but I have convinced myself that isn't the problem. They reprogrammed it yesterday and were going to check the sensors if that didn't help. They didn't call me back, not sure if service is open today but I plan to call. Fortunately it's raining here this weekend so I am not missing a good driving opportunity and the RR loves the rain but I sure hate cleaning it after driving around on wet streets.
You should always use the battery tender.

They represent a significant cost item to the factory when you consider how they pinch pennies so they only provide one because they know they have to. Your battery and the charging system have to be able to accurately deliver sparks to spin the engine at up to 8000 rpm. Regular cars at most 6000 rpm, and very rarely if ever prodded to do so. Hobbyists and racers actually spend a lot of money improving the electrical performance of their cars to maximize power delivery from their engines. You want your battery to always be fully charged.

My bad battery also initially checked "OK" when I lodged my complaint 1 week after delivery even though it was always hooked up to the battery tender. It went totally dead 5 months later, after causing a slew of other problems during the 5 months it was left in the car. Of course, it didn't help that my car came with the wrong battery tender which didn't work properly on the AGM battery of my car.

FWIW, my roof problem was caused by incorrect alignment from the factory assembly process. Sometimes, it is not one problem but a multitude, especially if you are doing an initial shake down a car of complicated design.
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Old 05-20-2017, 09:55 AM
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It's almost certainly an issue with a sensor in the top harness. It may or may not have left an error -- I went through this about a year ago with my top and even after seeing "roof failure" messages on the TFT screen sometimes they would find nothing with a scan. Eventually, when it was really acting up, they did get errors:

B1325 Main roof position (sensor PE30)
B1000 Implausible roof position

There was a bad sensor that is saying something that does not make sense to the computer -- it's implausible -- so the roof will stop to avoid damaging anything. There was never anything wrong with the mechanics of my roof, it was operating correctly, it was a sensor out of whack. Mostly, mine would react to a bump in the road and beep and flash "roof failure" warnings when the top was either open all the way or closed all the way. Only on a couple of instances did it fail in the middle of opening or closing the top, and each time it did, shutting off the car and restarting would allow the cycle to complete itself.

It's a frustrating thing because there are several sensors soldered into the wiring harness and they have to figure out which one is causing the problem. It took several visits to get mine sorted out, and it took communication with the factory tech support in Italy to get it fully sorted through diagnostic checks at the factory's request. Since then, it's been flawless (last June and 4000 miles later, and I hardly ever drive the car without operating the roof).

The sensor they placed (I believe this was actually the second one they replaced, the first one did not fix it) was PE30 "sensor kit for tonneau cover" 70001835

My car was under warranty at the time, so it was nothing out of pocket for me. The roof is built by Webasto, which also builds the roofs for BMW and Mercedes hardtop convertibles. I think it's a pretty reliable mechanical design, but modern Ferraris can exhibit computer quirks. The biggest problem is it can be an intermittent thing, and they can put it back together and it will behave for a while, so it may require some patience.

Try to make sure the dealership in Austin has a tech who is trained and experienced on these roofs. Perhaps one of the larger dealers -- Boardwalk in Dallas -- might be willing to consult with them.
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Old 05-20-2017, 11:14 AM
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Just heard back from the service manager. The problem is indeed a sensor and they are waiting to hear back from the factory if it's OK to just do the sensor or if they have to do the full harness. Apparently for warranty work doing just a sensor is OK but not otherwise. He says they can get the sensor easily.
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Old 05-20-2017, 11:16 AM
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Sorry to hear that. I had an '11 California and routine fluid changes were about all I had to go to the dealer for. I did once have an issue with the top. Turned out to be sensor misalignment. It was fixed under warranty and trouble-free after that.
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Old 05-20-2017, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by wrs View Post
Just heard back from the service manager. The problem is indeed a sensor and they are waiting to hear back from the factory if it's OK to just do the sensor or if they have to do the full harness. Apparently for warranty work doing just a sensor is OK but not otherwise. He says they can get the sensor easily.
Not sure why doing the full harness would (not) be OK for warranty if the defect requires a full harness to repair. The roof wire harness is expensive though, about $1,067 from Ricambi.
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Old 05-22-2017, 04:20 PM
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Back in the garage and all fixed now. They gave me a book of accessories and you can add a lot of options to your car now from Ferrari. Wheels, CF, data recorder and video to name a few.
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Old 05-22-2017, 04:41 PM
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Back in the garage and all fixed now. They gave me a book of accessories and you can add a lot of options to your car now from Ferrari. Wheels, CF, data recorder and video to name a few.

Glad your Cali is back and behaving. Is there an online version of the accessories book?
T
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Old 05-23-2017, 06:46 AM
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Glad your Cali is back and behaving. Is there an online version of the accessories book?
T
Good question, maybe check the Ferrari site. That description of the HS option that someone posted is not in this book. This book also says accessories for 2016 so it's not up to date. It has a lot of options for Cali 30s.
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