Small Precision Metal Working Machinery

I have a MicroMark lathe and it's a POS. It requires a lot of care and feeding to adjust the slop out of the cross slide, which is about as rigid as a lasagna noodle. For small parts I would look for an old South Bend 9" with a quick change box and skip the modern Chinese lathes. I also have an import CNC mill that's based on the Seig, I tolerate it because it is CNC but if I was buying a small bench mill I would look for an old American in good shape. Benchmaster made a nice American benchtop milling machine. Look for machine tools that are both rigid and heavy to make quality parts. Even for low spec model parts it will be frustrating if the machine is chattering and jamming on your part.

 

If you're looking to buy new, then I would only consider Sherline or Proxxon.

 

I am a Sherline dealer. You can contact me via my web page ScaleAutoArt.com

I offer a discount over buying direct. I am one of their top representatives.

 

I am also a user....
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I have an almost new Sherline lathe with lots of attachments I would sell.
I don't have time to use it right now.
PM if interested.

As for advice, I had a Proxxon and it's fine for what you pay for, but nowhere near the quality of Sherline.

 

I own a full blown shop with hi end CNC's

Post your budget and space limitations. I'd recommend more industrial equipment over tinker toy stuff but need to understand your plans.

 

Hi Carmine,

Well, I think your budget (mainly) and your space is going to limit you even with machines that are open, prototyping CNC's.

Here is another company that makes small scale stuff, likely a bit more robust that the small stuff Peter sells.

https://www.tormach.com/

I know of this company but never used their stuff. Probably also out of your budget but worth looking into.

You could probably pickup a used PrototraK mill for $7K and a bit less for a lathe. These would be much larger.

I'd love to see you get more heavy duty industrial stuff but I think your needs are going to put you in the bench top market for sure.

 

There's plenty of sources for Sherline equipment. It will definitely fit your budget and not Tinker Toy equipment.Many competent machinists in the hobby business use their equipment and consider it top quality including myself.

I don't want to violate any forum rules so I rescind my offer to contact me.

 

Pete - my apologies for the "tinker toy" comment. Certainly what you represent, fit's a need and price point.

I'm spoiled having Mazak and Mori equipment.

I also don't think you need to worry about the rules here and you are just looking to help someone who asked

 

Curious: where do the benchtop Sherlines rate in comparison to the old Unimat stuff? Anyone familiar?

 

IMO, if you're model making you should look into CAD and 3D printing, not lathes and milling machines.

 

3D printing does not have fine enough resolution. It's great technology but like others, it's not going to replace machining.

 

Perhaps...but most "hobby" related items are one off.

 

I had a Unimat prior to my Sherline and they were good but limited, especially with milling since they used a milling attachment and operated like a drill press and accessories are hard to find and very limited. Have a look at Sherline.com. The machines and accessories are nearly endless. They also offer a new mill with a larger format then the standard mill.

As far as any of the contemporary Unimats...stay away. Made in China and total crap. Sherline is a made in USA company with service beyond reproach.

 

Totally agree...you will spend loads of time preparing 3D printed parts. As me how I know

 

Yes not having looked at them I think I just assumed that the new ones were nothing like the originals.

 

Would 0.155 mm (0.0061") resolution be fine enough?

 

True, but side mirrors, body panels are also one-offs that need to be perfect mirror images or just slightly different, something that is extremely easy to accomplish in software but a pain if manually duplicated. And what about rims, special tires, front seats, gauges and dials, brakes, headlights...etc. Then there are also times when you over-cook a part and have to remake it. Finally, if you get really good at it, you can make copies or slightly modified (custom) versions much easier and sell your models.

While I think machining will always be useful, 3D printing will definitely gradually replacing it and much of that process depends on how fast the software and printing technologies advance. Given the challenges in today's world, I think the needed advances will come extremely quickly.

There's a huge push by government to get 3D printing into the field. The US Navy which traditionally relies heavily on machining prowess, is very keen on 3D printing as it can potentially solve huge maintenance and repair problems for sophisticated gear in far-flung field locations.

 

Not for my needs - here is a 3D printed (rubber) button we had done for a 599 - not remotely good enough for our standards.

Not a chance. It's another tool but should be applied where is excels. No offense to you, this is my general 3D printing rant....

People get all hot and heavy over new technology and then they think it can replace everything - it can't. Use the appropriate technology for the application.

In the case of plastic, sure molds must be made but then a production part can be made in seconds with great surface finishes while 3D printing is like watching grass grow.
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I call it the wood grain effect...on very small parts it can be annoying, on large surfaces like my 3D printed bodies, hours log up quickly prepping for a smooth finish prior to base coat.

And this on high end printers.

 

It may have to do with the property of the resin, as well as the printer. One sample doesn't necessarily represent the whole industry.

Famous last words.

The nice thing about 3D printing is that it can work while you are sleeping, or when you are working on the next piece or having lunch. The rings are normal human-finger size.
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