If anyone has any detailing questions or paint correction questions post em up and i'll attempt to answer them. Everyone here is real cool, just wanna contribute back I have a lot of experience and generally enjoy it. I know paint correction quite well.
I come across this term as paint correction, and still have a herd time understanding the term. Does this refer to older cars paint job ? On the few threads I see it referred to new cars and still don't understand why not just polish the finish or is there a much more involved process besides polishing the finish. Sorry for my ignorance but you offered.
Why do polishers not use 3 inch pads, the typical larger size 5 or 6 inch pads seem too larrge for many surfaces other than a flat hood or deck lid. Any risks of say pressure not distributed widely enough, or is it just about speed of use is better for a pro with thd larger pad sizes?
Andy, I use a 3" adapter on my Griot's polisher frequently. I have found no downside other than the inability to get quality pads (forced to use Lake Country).
OK my friend you asked... What do you use on painted wheels after cleaning? How do you clean: 328 GTS top from Armour all? And its water spots? wool carpets (with no stains)? glue spots off of headliner? the red paint in an F430 engine bay? What about water-less washing for light dirt e.g. Griots Speedshine? What about ONR no-rinse or distilled water or...? Leather conditioners or just only cleaning? Circular wax application and removal, but cleaning with strokes along the car length? Any protectant for Suntek film? Thanks! Answer any you wish I'm just asking... Fellow F-chatters feel free to chime in!
water spots: 3D eraser water spot remover is very effective, but READ the directions and use it carefully. Works on paint or glass, but if - like on an older car - the finish on the side mirrors is compromised at all, do not use it. I had it seep through an invisible pore on one of my 560SL side mirror....permanent blotch. Waterless wash: Griot's waterless wash or Optimum No-Rinse. Both great. Painted wheels - I am partial to Poor Boys Wheel Sealant. Easy application and lasts a decent amount of time. None of them last forever. Leather: depends on the age of the car. Pre 2000 I would do Leatherique - labor intensive but awesome results. Newer cars generally just need a cleaning...generally....and I like the Griots 3 in 1 leather stuff. I have both Griot's 5.5" and 3" orbital polishers, and I am starting to really like their BOSS line of polishes and microfiber pads. I am still a Meguiar's guy at heart.
Not holding my breath. YouTube has more detailing vid than a person can watch in their lifetime. If I need specifics, I go there. Detailers Domain and the guy with AMMO-NYC provide good info without too much fluff.
Painted wheels - I would coat them and eliminate the need for any waxing. It will make easier cleaning, and prevent brake dust from sticking. Soap and water should be all you need from then on. 328 top - APC/ water in a spray bottle. Then protectant like 303 aerospace will work, or a coating like Gtechnique trim (c4 I think) wool carpets - no help there, I don't do interiors red paint - treat it like paint that has clearcoat, or single stage. Waterless washing - don't do it ONR is better as it uses more water, but a full wash is always best. No sense in dragging dirt around clean the leather, then coat. Or, if you like, swissvax, leathermasters, leatherique wax in any direction, remove in any direction. lay it on, wipe it off. Leaving it on for 3 days doesn't matter. Thinner layer is better than one thick layer. use a sealant wax like jescar powerlock sealant on the suntek film. Or a coating topper like M2 blast from modesta
You can ask 100 detailers the same question and get 100 different answers. That's just the way it is.
Correcting: using a buffer with a more aggressive pad and compound - like Meguiar's 105 - to "correct" defects, like swirl marks, slight scratches, marring, etc. Polishing refers to using a less aggressive pad on the buffer with a more mild polishing liquid...like Meguiars 205 with less abrasives - to further remove defects...even some that result from aggressive correction...and 'refine the shine'. [correcting defects are more from using a straight rotary buffer and an aggressive wool pad - for experienced folks only - and can take the form of slight holograms or marring that can result from the fast speed and pressure of a rotary]. "Jeweling" is the real 'refine the shine' step. I use a black foam pad on my random orbital buffers [6" and a 3" for smaller areas] and a polish with no abrasives at all - like the new Griot's Garage perfecting creme - to follow up the two previous steps and go that extra mile to bring out as much lustre as possible. Others may have different definitions, but this is what Ive gleaned from reading as much as I can.
Which is what you want for increased working time. The final step before waxing or putting on a sealant...or both..is to clean the paint well. I go back to Griot's and use their Pre-Wax Cleaner. Spray on and use a good quality microfiber cloth...several, actually....and wipe clean and NEVER let the stuff dry out. If you get distracted and the cleaner does dry some, just spray more on before wiping. Good stuff.
what is the best way to keep a nearly daily driven f430 clean with out scratching or swirling the paint? right now i have microfiber wash clothes and dry cloths. i dust it with a california duster before washing. i use a soap bucket and then a rinse bucket. the front end that is has a clear bra is great but i worry the back end will start getting swirl marks. the paint is near perfect as of now.
After washing the car you should dry it with a leaf blower or compressed air. Drying with micros always leaves swirl marks. The duster always leaves tiny scratches and swirl marks.
Some people swear by the controversial California Duster, but by & large most regard it as a swirl-inducing instrument. You are basically just shoving the dust around and hoping that some of it clings to the wax-permeated fibers. I keep mine where it belongs: Hanging on a peg board in it's original cover - a reminder never to use it again. You are better off with microfiber and a good detailing spray liquid to use together. Never put anything dry on an un-washed vehicle.
Odd that the OP hasn't returned to answer any of the questions. Guess he wasn't all that interesting in "contributing back".
great i'm getting a blower this weekend then. the cali duster said it never scratches! wtf! thanks guys
I have the Griot 3 inch polisher and the 5 inch polisher and I pretend like I know what I am doing but I really do not get great results. I need specific pointers from pros or people who have done it before. To remove light scratches from both single stage, and clear coated paint, what do I do? 5 inch randome orbiter polisher: what speed? what brand and type foam pads, or ? what brand and type polish compound? For how long? What towels? then follow up with what glazing compound? Machine or by hand? then what wax? how long to leave it on? How to remove it off?
Mitch - see this thread: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/348-355-sponsored-bradan/408492-my-exterior-adventure.html
Instruction vids on the Griot's web site. https://www.griotsgarage.com/category/how+to/how+to+polish.do You can get most if not all of those questions answered there. Responding would be like writing a book.
If there's a good coat of wax on the car you can blow it dry in 10 minutes. You won't believe how easy it is and how good the paint will look. I swear by all the Griot's products. The machines and all of their detailing products work great.
Does anyone have experience with carpet dyeing? I have been literally searching the world for a set of original factory mats for my 550 Marenello. My carpet is nero. I found a set in Germany, which I bought that is dark blue. I am planning on having them professionally dyed and replacing the outside welting to black. Any suggestions or anyone that knows of an expert, it would be much appreciated! Image Unavailable, Please Login
