Does anybody have any advice on how to stop or slow down the damage caused by Gasohol fuel to classic cars? Thanks Stefano
Yeah, don't use it. see ... Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada The rubber portions of the in-tank fuel pump assembly of my F-car crumbled and need complete replacement.
Use the Lucas additives, top end cleaner and the ethanol protectant, is what they'll recommend. I'm starting to notice E15 here in CA which is even worse.
I couldn't find any ethanol free gas in my area, Long Island, NY. I guess I'll look into the fuel additives. Thanks
Even some of the additives you use to be able to buy are no longer on the shelves. Don't know if its no sales, or the eviro's got into it.
There is a reason it is against the law to use ethanol laced gas in aircaft. Just replaced an injection pump, secondary fuel pump and a gas tank on a Gullwing damaged by ethanol E10. The bill ruined the hell out of $20K
Yeah there are absolutely no gas stations on LI or the major metro area that carry ethanol free gas. You can spare yourself the trouble and just use the additive. BTW, does anyone have a view on if using additive in late model Ferraris (i.e. non-vintage) has any negative repercussions? I don't think twice about using it in my vintage porsche but have been reluctant in my F430.
I have done a lot of ethanol repairs lately and I am dubeous as to the effectiveness of additives... The ethanol is still in there.. If you can; buy race gas from independent gas stations that sell gas for the race track in 5 gallon containers.. Remember politicians dont care if they ruin your cars fuel system only that they get re elected.
Additives can act as a lubricant to minimize the effects of the alcohol. Makes for a smoother running engine and can improve mileage. So far I've just used the Lucas injector cleaner/upper end lubricant and found this, but it also seems to stabilize gas if the car sits. On older stuff it's better than not using it. Came recommended from a 35 yr. P mechanic. On newer I'd go with the E10 stabilizer. Call Lucas if you have questions.
I agree about the additives. They serve a particular purpose but do nothing for the ethanol issue. Owners of expensive classic cars should be buying fuel by the drum if they live in an area where only ethanol additized gasoline is sold at the pump. Hyperfuels - Distributor of Shell Racing Fuels in addition to race gasoline sells ethanol free 93 octane street gasoline by the drum. Word of caution: some race gasolines do have ethanol. Check with the vendor to comfirm.
We've run pump gas through all of of cars for years. Years ago we replaced lines with modern lines which seem fine with it. In the winter we use stabil and in the Mechanical FI one we mix in a small touch of go kart oil. No problems or issues.
I'd like to see a chemical analysis of the supposedly 'ethanol free' gas at these stations. Are there laws mandating testing for 'pure gas' before station owners can hang that sign up?
Just completed a restoration on my 356, including all new modern fuel lines, so I'm hoping you're right.
Check out marinas or nearby to Marina stations. A lot of older boat fuel systems cannot use alcohol. You can find usually 89 or 91 octane. GTS Bruce
For my big block Corvette, I was using 50-50 mix with unleaded racing fuel - 105 octane. The valve seats were replaced earlier. That would cut down the percentage of ethanol products in the tank as well as give me the necessary octane boost I needed for that engine.
Guys, just wanted to clarify, as I live in Australia, but are you saying there is no premium unleaded available? Or is this just some stations, some locations, etc? What happened to America, land of unlimited choices? Here in Australia, we are phasing out low octane unleaded, and having E10, or premium unleaded.
It's easy to find premium unleaded, every corner service station has it. But there's still that little sticker on the pump saying "Up to 10% ethanol". All else being the same, adding ethanol tends to increase the octane rating, so there's no reason to expect less ethanol in the premium blend.
The Ethanol fuel goes bad after about 30 days. For newer cars stored I use stabil and stabil ethanol treatment, the gas seems to last fine like that for 6 months and the injectors dont get clogged. I had acan of untreated ethanol fuel that had sat for 10 weeks, even my chevy equinox was unhappy running on it. On older vehicles the ethanol does weird things to the rubber hoses and carb bits and pieces. Even when not stored the older vehicles dont run great especialy at idle on ethanol fuel. It is maybe a little hassle but not that hard to get race gas. For an older vehicle in storage I use a mix of 112 leaded with treated superunleaded. I also see that it is possible to buy ethanol free unleaded race gas, but you have to look at the labels, some have ethanol others not. If you are going on a long drive, start with a full tank of your choice of ethanol free gas, and then when you get down to 1/2 tank fill up with superunleaded. The belnd will still work well and at most you will have 5% ethanol. Of course on a really long trip you are going to end up running 10% ethanol fuel, by the first tank you will notice the difference at idle, but put the good stuff in when you get back home and all should be good. I think the biggest killer is when the cars sit for long periods with ethanol fuel. If iuts untreated forget it just drain the tank. But basicaly if from month to month your car has mostly ethanol free fuel in it the odd tank here or there wont hurt and in general it will run much much better. You can also use avgas which is ethanol free. Although you should be aware that its not legal to run leaded fuel on any street vehicle.
You can test your gas for ethanol very easily. Take a test tube, add some water. mark the line where the water level is. Then add some of the gas in question. Shake it up well and see if the water separates back out at a higher level. The ethanol will stay with the water.
I've always used a dash of Marvel Mystery Oil....Never had a problem with the Spica fuel injection on my Alfas...Spica guru also Wes Ingram recommends it. Outboard motors are especially sensitive. A month ago I was in Catalina Island, dropped the dinghy in the water..started and died repeatedly. Floating globs of ethanol were getting sucked up and killed the engine. Had to replace carb bowl gasket as it was even eating the gasket. Cleaned tank and bowl out...good to go. Here are some tips from Outboard Wizard Marine Service - OMC - Bombardier Technical Help and Parts.. Some can be applied. Protect Your Outboard Engine from Damage Due to Ethanol Blend Fuels. printable copy. How to Prevent Damage From Ethanol in Your Outboard Motor: ! 1. The most important preventive measure you can take is to avoid using ethanol fuel blends in your outboard engine. If you are unable to obtain fuel in your area without ethanol, you SHOULD TEST THE FUEL you buy to assure the ethanol content is below 10%. ! 2. The second most important precaution to prevent engine damage from high levels of ethanol is to use a non-alcohol fuel conditioner, such as Evinrude - Johnson 2+4 fuel conditioner. 2+4 fuel conditioner will stabilize fuel, inhibit corrosion and absorb moisture (water) without adding alcohol to the fuel. 3. Never use a fuel blend that contains more than 10 percent ethanol. 5. Do not mix MTBE and ethanol-blended fuels. Use the same gasoline supplier while fuel distributors are making changes. Run out or remove your old (MTBE) fuel before putting the new ethanol fuel in your tank. 6. Make sure your motor is equipped with a water separating fuel filter. (E-Tec's have them, other engines may or may not). The installation of a water separator in the fuel line can help with small amounts of water. 7. Check (for contaminants and clogging) and replace your fuel filter often. Fuel filters should be replaced at least every 50 -100 hours. 8. To minimize phase separation, add non-alcohol fuel stabilizer (2+4) to every tank of gas. (Outboard manufacturers also recommend adding an injector cleaner to the fuel). 9. Remember that gas with ethanol has a shorter shelf life - use it up and replace it quickly. Avoid running on bottom of tank (where most water will sink). 10. Note: Evinrude (OMC BRP) recommends carbon guard be added to the fuel tank each time you add gasoline, (Reduces possibility of piston ring sticking and carbon build-up, better overall engine performance, increases engine life), but it will not remove water.