Ferrari Dino 308 Gt4 S/n 10402 American spec car (ie big bumpers) 1975 ie Californian suitable without smog Just over 80,000 miles. Silver with boxer trim, but originally Rosso Rubino Metalizatto Magnolia leather I bought this car from who I believe was the 3rd owner in California and had it shipped east, hed had it since 1985 I think. It was originally a California car and had been in CA until I purchased it as far as I know. It was a used but honest car, and very dry. I have over time extensively refurbished many parts of the car and it is now a strong driving, nice riding car. It is far from perfect cosmetically but is very presentable. Ive focused more on the mechanicals than cosmetic but have neatened things up as I went along, but am not a detailer. Ive never polished it or tried to remedy paint issues apart from touch up chips on to prevent corrosion. I will summarize the car below, and add pictures as I go along. I will continue the drive the car until sold. The car is in Fairfield county, CT and there are several good sources to perform a PPI. Vantage Motorsport Stamford, P1 Motorsport, perhaps Tom Yang, Auto Elite in Tenafly NJ to name a few. I would strongly recommend a qualified PPI even if you are going to see the car yourself and the door is open to recognized professionals. I have a mid-rise hoist so the car can be thoroughly inspected at my home or we can discuss getting the car to a specialist within reason. I have spent many, many, many hours over and under the car, and will be very open buyers and their inspectors who come with a good attitude. Price $65,000 including all the spares (see below). I will consider selling the car minus some spares, but preference is for an all-in-one sale. I can be reached by PM or at [email protected]. I have a day job and generally dont talk cars at work, but will try to respond best possible. I will add pictures as I go and try my best answer queries from interested parties. Clearly, this is not a concourse winning Gt4 garage queen, but probably drives better than many of them. With paint and interior (two large jobs, I dont dispute) the car would be very good, but Imho its at a good place now reliable and good to drive, presentable but not precious. These cars a fundamentally DIY friendly and there is lots of parts available and tons of tech support right here. Anything you experience will have been experienced before by someone else! I've tried to strike a price between the 'box of chocolate' mystery projects in the $30's and $40's that arent driving and the low mileage, cosmetically great cars in the upper $80-90's and into the hundreds for nice Euro's, most of which dont seem to get driven much. If you are looking for a perfect GT4 please call Al (StrictlyFerrari), his cars look AMAZING! If you are looking for a real basket case project maybe the guys in Beverly Hills can help. Read on if still of interest! Engine and mechanicals Currently in the car is an engine from a 78 Gts # 26271. This was a car found by a young Ferrari tech in North Carolina who refurbed the engine and then decided a 360 would be more fun than trying to resurrect the 308s body. By all appearances the engine was low mileage with hone marks still present but nothing is guaranteed, it was a mystery car. The ODO was at 2500miles. I bought the engine and sold on the chassis. I had a well known mechanic from Sport Auto doing a compression test before buying it and its been very reliable with about 3000 miles since I installed it. Hill engineering tensioners, uprated water pump. Nice transmission though I dont flog it, rush shifts, dump clutches. Here is the link to that story or search tech4ferrari in the 308 section http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/308-328-sponsored-yellow-compass-group/323318-my-first-ferrari.html Since I have had the car. - Carb kit - K+N filters original housing and fresh filter available if preferred - Electromotive electronic ignition. Crank fired, no distributors, modern coil packs. Used on many 308s today, I think its a great upgrade, something over $2k for the kit. TOTALLY REVERSIBLE. Havent fouled a plug or failed to start since installing. - Belts changed just this spring. The Hill tensioners had about 2000 miles on them, looked and felt fine and I left them. - New clutch cable just installed, not a fun job - 2 new grainger radiator fans to replace the Lucas units - Birdman fuse box has never blown a fuse since then - New lower temp fan switch at the bottom of the radiator - Radiator pulled, pressure tested, flushed and painted this winter - SR coolant hoses throughout - SR coolant drain petcock (drain your coolant in a civilized fashion) - SR filler to tank hose, and fuel tank balance hoses - Sr vacuum hose in engine bay - New fuel tank sender (although doesnt register below 1/3) - New aluminum header tank from superformance - Large engine to ground strap to improve ground - New fuel hoses now (still have a few to replace using OEM Bmw 8mm FI hose) - Replacement fuel pump/filter - Taylor plug wires when I changed to electromotive. - Oil (dino oil) and filter changes (B253) about every 1000 miles - New heater control valve hard to find - All new radiator hoses about 2 years ago. - Vented front floor pan - New hood/radiator foam - With engine out the chassis coolant tubes were pulled, and using spares news ends were recut and welded (by an ex usaf F-111 fitter, neat job though you wont ever see it). They corrode at the tips over time and can only be removed with engine out. - Ansa muffler pretty ancient, painted white a la P3, but sounds great. An afternoons work and a spray can and its back to black. Work to do. - Pressure test the cooling system and chase down loose hoses letting in a little air (usual bleeding issues but think it can be improved) - Rejet the carbs the engine has a flat spot at 1500-2000 rpm just a small throttle openings. Pretty typical on todays fuel and exacerbated by the K+Ns - Auxiliary belts - Speedo is acting up bouncing. Have not isolated if its a speedo or sender problem. - Brake warning light on need to check the sensor wiring connection at the servo - Car has a noisy throw-out bearing (ie when at idle in neutral with clutch pedal out) - a/c is not gassed, but pump all connected. Chassis, suspension, running gear 2 winters ago I removed all suspension arms, replaced all bushings and repainted the arms. I did NOT plate all the hardware but simply cleaned and refitted it. I clean all springs and touched them up as I did the Konis. I did NOT rebuild the Konis. The bushing were the regular Superformance kits, not the harder option, so the car remains oem and supple (roads here arent forgiving). Ball joints replaced. Sway bar bushings and bushing mounts replaced. Wheel arches given a real clean and paint. All the crappy work and the car has been used since but they will clean up nicely if thats your thing. Brake fluid drained and replaced 2 years ago. Calipers cleaned but not re-plated. Steering rack replaced with the new one available online. Refitted with the later type steering rack mounts stronger than the early GT4 one with new bushings. The rack has a small amount of straight ahead play noticeable at freeway speeds. Any good mechanic could probably adjust the play out but mostly needs the rack out to do so. I had the Cromadora 5 stars repainted last year to F101c, but with just a satin coat so they arent too shiny. New oem Ferrari caps installed 3 year old Sumitomo rubber (14 inch). Not super high performance but decent tyres with very little wear. I would go for the XWXs once you choose which wheel you want (see spares below) Body and trim Rather old paint job and shows its age. Presents fine, good at 20 feet, ok at 10 but many imperfections in keeping with the paints age and the cars use. Its not a car I have any fear of using. I suspect the car was resprayed between 1st and 2nd owner and the rear ¾ panel was replaced from inside the primer is a different color. The good news is the old paint tells fewer lies, eg there is a small line along the top edge of that panel where I assume the skim filler has settled. There are two rust bubbles at the end of the c pillar buttress on drivers side, not changed since I owned the car. Each lower front fender at the rear has small rust bubbles. From inside I have used rust removerand Por15 to treat and seal the rust. Stone chips on the nose a local respray could help. Lots of chips at the edge of the doors, a few small dings and scratches. One door jamb has a heavy paint scratch. Bumpers pushed and the rubber ears removed (all included). Bumpers in good condition. Doors are good as far as rust, both interior panels have been removed, any surface rust scraped and sealed. No major rust problems. In the front left small chassis tubes under the drivers headlight one square tube has a thumb sized hole on the bottom. You can only find it by reaching around. I found it when I took the undertray off for painting. I assume this closed tube got some water in it and rusted out from the inside. I Por-15 it long ago to stop further corrosion. Not structural and not cosmetic as you cant see it but the only sign of rust on the chassis. The passenger side trunk floor aft of the rear wheel was repaired poorly, think filler. Not a visual issue now but something that would need to be addressed at paint time. Repainting the boxer trim would lift the car a lot and is relatively simple worth doing if and when the rust spots are addressed. The passenger door sags when open and as a result doesnt close neat. Something I think a good bodyman could adjust with shims but I suspect a door pin might need to be replaced for perfection. I have tried the jack adjustment trick but really lost my courage before a remedy was reached. Windscreen has I think two stars. side and rear glass fine. Door rubber replaced both sides. Passenger side window rubber replaced still need to do the drivers side. Interior Dash and glovebox cover perfect Glove box lock broken Steering wheel has had some re-stiching and leather color has worn. I like it like it is but others may want to have it recovered. Black carpet in good order. Felt under passenger side dash coming loose, needs regluing. Door panels in decent shape, drivers side speaker grille has had a collision with a shoe, small tear repaired. Several of the trim mounting screws have pulled through the fiberglass door panel edge. Rear seats and surrounding trim have no holes, splits. Headliner and sun visors very good. The front seats and the console have suffered the most from use, time and sun. There are several splits and some threading pilling loose on the seat cushion pleats. A lot of color has come off. However, I have had the seat bases professionally strapped with Pirelli rubber and that lifts the cushion a lot, totally improving the comfort and protecting the threads from stretching. They sit better than a lot of Gt4 seats that look a lot better. Im happy to leave them and drive but appreciate thats totally personal. I would like to replace the seat belt clip heads with the remanufactured ones being talked about on the site now. Awaiting readiness. The console shows signs of shrinking from the heat (coolant tubes running underneath and surface exposed to sun) and loss of color. There are small drill holes in the forward console from a cb radio.. this is a 70s car Ashtrays just refinished. Pioneer radio works but never used. (original booklet included) ALL the leather, which is surface died from new, has areas where the color has come off, especially after Leatherique treatment when the dry California leather soaks up the treatment and releases all the dirt and color on the surface. I had ideas to recolor the leather this coming winter. Rear view mirror has been re glued on. Speed gauge erratic. Brake light warning on as mentioned above. Fuel doesnt read below 1/3 tank. Passenger side heater valve not sliding open/closed properly. Trunk carpet original and on the whole in good condition but not great down in the wells. Spares Some value here especially as time goes on. Original engine. It ran terribly and was showing every sign of being worn out. Hence, it will require a full rebuild, but its all there. I've degreased it and have it sitting on a trolley in my dry garage. 75s have the early cams which are said to be a bit more aggressive and are I think valuable on their own. Ive toyed with rebuilding this myself, or just getting it done by one of the several very capable pros and just storing it. A good base for the buyer to either go fully oem, or build it up a bit. Rebuilt set of carbs including plating the hardware Headers front and rear in primer Unused brake master cylinder Spare oem tyre valves Spare wheel caps original 2 diapers early one on the car now (I like the look). Cleaned up the one original to this car and its ready to go back on Several turn signal housings they tend to warp a bit over time Original steering rack rebuild and refit at your leisure. Spare key x 1 Spare blank keys uncut 3 distributors and various distributor parts. The dizzies were working fine but I just wanted the set and go of the electromotive, and the strong starting spark that system gives. Fouled plugs gone. a/c pump bumper ears front and back removed for a cleaner look but included +++ 5 Cromodora Dino rims, one OEM not mounted, the other 4 all refurbed Plus 4 GT4 ashtray hub caps, cleaned and polished with new and correct Dino badges fitted Probably $2500 for the wheel package. I personally think GT4's look best on these rims, and for a bit of non OEM spice add the 246 Dino trim rings. The buyer has the choice to go for either rim (both are 14 inch) +++ Smog equipment Boxes of things, brake pads, coolant hoses to cannibalize, hoses, clamps, etc etc Tools --- Tool roll and most tools red handled screw drivers, not all matching, average condition. Weber tool, but not spark plug tool. Spanners not all matching Jack kit. All there, not mint except the bar with the round rubber piece for quick turning the jack. Fuse and globe bowl Paraphernalia --- Original folder in rough condition, with owners manual, not mint but original Several promotional brochures Ive collected Original parts manual in the blue binder! Original workshop manual in the blue binder! A folder with I think 200 pages of receipts, invoices etc that cover the first, third and 4th owners (me). The 2nd owner didnt seem to leave much trace. Includes the original invoice from Newport Sports cars at Newport Beach where the buyer, Mr Caravia, traded a Maserati Merak for this car with 80miles on the odometer. A lot of history in there. Thanks for reading and let me know if any questions. pics to follow
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Hi Joe, Yep been a few years. Not sure what's next but probably a 529! Cromadora rims. 4 are refinished low gloss, one is original/mint and looks to be never fitted. As mentioned above, 4 original GT4 hubcaps with correct Dino badges on them. Image Unavailable, Please Login
"Yep been a few years. Not sure what's next but probably a 529!" sorry, probably unclear. By this I mean a 529 college savings plan, not a mystery Ferrari model! All first world problems...
Yep. I'm sure there is a trick but I've yet to learn it. These were uploaded from a laptop, but also happens on iPads. Anyone know the secret to correct orientation of pics?
Thank you. I fear things actually sell better if you tell tall stories and hope buyers don't check... It's human nature to be attracted to the new Maaco paint rather than understand the pita to improve mechanicals. But I'd like inspectors to tell their buyers 'yep, it's just like he said'. Improves your karma bank balance...
