Stright Razor Shave?

Used razors can be very difficult to purchase without seeing them first hand. The edge is extremely sensitive to damage; and can be a real pain to hone out. Besides the razor you will need some good hones, a strop, and your lathering supplies. Some razors need both the canvas and leather strops. SRP has a bunch of good information on their website.

 

Before you go full on straight razor, I would suggest going with the tried and true method of shaving used by our grandfathers, the Double Edged Safety Razor.
I switched from the crappy Mach3 cartridge and canned foam to wet shaving with a DE Safety Razor about 3 months ago and I'm never going back. I now get a closer shave with less irritation, spend less (aside from the initial investment) and actually enjoy shaving.

I use a Mekur 43C safety razor, Taylor of Old Bond Street Sandalwood shaving soap, a Simpson Best Badger "Chubby" #1 brush, and shaving oil I purchased from a Aidan Gill in New Orleans. The thing to remember is every piece of equipment is important in producing a good shave. I have tried a few soaps and found that in addition to the above I enjoy the Taylor of Old Bond Street Sandalwood cream (it along with Pinaud Clubman aftershave will make you smell just like you left the barber's chair) and Geo F. Trumper Coconut Oil shaving Cream. There are a whole myriad of choices and what works well for others may not work well for you. I have a good friend that prefers Truefitt and Hill creams and swears they are the best stuff in the world, so I'll probably give those a try next. So far as blades are concerned some cut better than others depending on your facial hair thickness and type. I have tried a good number of blades in the past 3 months and found I prefer either the Mekur or Feather blades, but they are sharp and will slice you easily if too much pressure is applied when shaving. Brushes are another important piece and come in several different grades, I would recommend nothing less than a "Best Badger" brush. This site explains the difference in brushes fairly well and is full of other useful information.
http://www.shaving101.com/index.php/education/shaving-brush-basics/105-understanding-hair-grades-of-badger-brushes.html

 

I agree, a safety razor or at most, two blades. The more blades, the more risk of ingrown hairs. Also, after showering, try a good face scrub, then shave.

 

+1
And you just have to replace the blades, no stroping, honing or blade maintenance. I use the Merkur blades, and in my grandfathers old razor no less.

 

I was in your boat a few months back contemplating between a straight edge and a DE razor. Eventually I opted for a DE razor for the user friendliness and convenience of it. The straight edge may be cooler but you do need to invest time into keeping the blade honed. The DE gives a much smoother and closer shave than the normal multiblade razors.

I have used my Merkur 34C for a couple months now and love it. It was easy to adapt to and I hardly cut myself. Got a Proraso shaving soap and a badger brush to go with it.

 

I think with a straight razor most would end up like this or worse - http://www.shopmasc.com/assets/images/blogimages/shaving-cuts.jpg

It would take me hours to hit all the angles and curves and my hand would probably be shaking like the barber in High Plains Drifter.

But shaving is such a PITA, I got sick of most disposables, and my 1st electric is too the point where it takes forever to get the job done so I have been thinking about a different brand or maybe one of those safety razors.

My father always used the Wilkinson Sword brand -- http://www.kaliandee.com/images/D/wilkinson%20blades%20kp.jpg

 

Go to badgerandblade.com, join and watch the videos/read the forums. My second favorite site after this one.

 

Following your link, I've been reading through that site for the last two hours. Just looking to educate myself a bit at the moment...

It seems that a lot of the double-edged safety razors are symmetrical, which seems a bit redundant. The Merkur 34C Heavy Duty or Merkur 23C Long Handle both look like good quality affordable razors ($40 in the States, £30 in the UK), but why have two edges if they're both exactly the same?

I've been looking at the asymmetrical examples that include both an open comb and closed comb side, such as the iKon OSS. It seems like it would be more versatile, or at least allow you to test each side to see what would generally work better for you, but unfortunately this razor is quite expensive ($150/£120). One thing that really seems to justify the price is that it isn't chrome plated, which can wear off in time, but made from solid stainless steel and will endure forever.

That said, £120 is a lot to spend on a shaving technique you've never tried before and may not stick with for the decades it would take to make a solid stainless steel razor worthwhile. It seems slightly akin to deciding to learn how to drive and so buying a Ferrari, so does anyone know of any low-cost (<$40/£30) asymmetrical open/closed comb double-edged safety razors?

All the best,
Andrew.

 

Go to eBay and buy a Rolls Razor ... wonderful!

 

I use a vintage Gillette Fat Boy from 1960 I bought on eBay. Love it. I also bought a sample blade set. Surprising difference in blades. Got a few guys at work into it and we all like different brands. My fave is the Israeli Personnas. A decent badger hair brush is essential. I use an Art of Shaving one. My favorite cream is Proraso.

I work construction so shaving isn't a daily necessity. But when I do shave now I actually enjoy it! Haven't seen an ingrown hair since I started wet shaving with a DE safety razor. My two cents.

 

I tried the double edge razor deal, and went back to my trusty Gillette fusion. I still use a brush and cream to generate lather.

The double edge razors require more time (more passes) to get a good shave. Also, people don't mention this too often, but they do cut or leave "weepers". We have white towels in our bathroom, and they frequently had red stains on them from my face, even though I did not technically cut myself. The answer to this is an Alum block, but it wasn't really my cup of tea to rub over my face every morning.

However, the technique you learn from the DE razors is good for all razors. If you learn to not press too hard, go with the grain, etc., that will carry over to the Fusion (or other modern safety cartridges) razors.

With the Gillette fusion, I can do a two pass shave (1 pass with the grain, 1 pass against the grain) that leaves me with a super smooth face. That requires a minimum of 3 or more passes with a DE blade to get comparable results. If I am rushed, I can do just a 1 pass shave with the Gillette fusion and be fine.

One Gillette fusion blade lasts me a month, so the cost really isn't that bad.

If you are having problems with ingrown hairs, irritation, etc., it's likely that your shave can be improved by technique, rather than spending money for a whole new shaving setup.

I do recommend the brush and cream, though- it's more of a luxury thing. Feels great, and smells great (there seem to be more choices in traditional shave creams and soaps that you use with a brush).

 

Andrew

The symmetrical razors are not an issue. The key to a good DE shave is to use short strokes (1-2" at a time)and not a long continuous pass. The DE aspect gives you more surface area of the blade (use both sides) to use before you dip into water to clean it before the next pass.

The open comb design are not meant for newbies - you might end up cutting yourself a lot more with it.

I bought the Merkur 34C. It works great.

 

Thanks Sam.

I can't seem to find a consistent answer on open comb versus closed comb. Some guides and reviews seem to suggest that an open comb is easier on longer stubble and therefore can be gentler on the skin, while a closed comb is best for finishing off smoothly after the open comb passes (see Shaving101.com's iKon OSS review linked above). Other guides have said the open comb allows more shaving foam to reach the razor and this can give a smoother, more lubricated shave, while the opposing view is that more of the blade is directly exposed making it more aggressive. Some say open comb is gentler and others are saying it requires experience to shave with without cuts.

Could you elaborate a bit more on the actual mechanics of it? I'm really struggling with the lack of a consistent position on the subject by many expert guides and don't feel like I'm able to make an informed decision. It is not clear whether the reviewers are comparing open and closed combs from identical models from the same manufacturers in order to isolate this feature as the only variable.

All the best,
Andrew.

 

I have been using electric for many years. It is so damn convenient (and cheap). I would like to make the transition to a blade (safety) as I appreciate the ritual. I used to shave people's heads with a straight blade and I took pleasure in my skills with that. During the weekdays I always seem to be in a rush and the electric is no fuss. It is quite easy to use when traveling. It is easily carried in carry ons without the TSA breaking my balls. I understand that the transition can be tough and it is not advisable to alternate techniques ( safety blade on the weekends).

 

I've tried both, as well as the "slantbar," and it really comes down to personal preference. I didn't find much difference between open/closed comb razors. The slantbar is very aggressive; it rewards good technique (light pressure, stretching the area you are shaving,) with a very close shave but will bite you if you're sloppy.

When I'm not using a straight razor (travelling, lazy days,) my go-to DE is the Merkur Futur. I like the heft and design of it. It's also adjustible, so you can set it very mild at first and open it up as your technique improves and you want to go for a closer shave. I have it opened up to 5 (semi-agressive.)
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I have used the same Merkur safety razor for almost three decades. They are solidly made and mine is as good as the day it was new.

Over that period, the blades have more and more frequently come from China, and their cheaper steel doesn't hold an edge as well as the German or American steel does.

I do straight razor shaves with a skilled barber from time to time, and they are relaxing, but I wouldn't want to go through the process myself each day. It's slow and cumbersome. Definitely something I am happy to treat myself to when I feel the need to get some quiet time, but in the morning, trying to get yourself ready is not that time.

CW

 

Andrew - You want to try DE shaving? I have a nearly new Merkur Futur and about 30 Feather blades I'll send you for free.

I tried it for a couple of months, just don't like it - and don't like shaving my head with it either. I'm sure it is good - just a personal thing.

 

Thank you very much, that's extremely generous of you! I'll PM you my address.

All the best,
Andrew.

 

Now, that's cool! Pizza Connection,

I recommend that you pick up a pack of Merkur blades to start; they're less flexible than the Feathers, albeit less sharp. I use Feathers; they are RIDICULOUSLY sharp but a little unforgiving. Graduate to them. A Futur set to one with Merkur (or Swedish Gillette,) blades is a great beginners setup.

 

Must say the first two sentences here are my own thoughts. I can get a baby smooth shave with no nicks, abrasions, or irritations in well under 2 minutes with my electric.

As to the ritual? I LIKE the ability to be able to sleep until 8 a.m. and still be in my shop ready for business by 8:30!

Otherwise? Everyone I've personally known, (from my dad, my brother, and quite a few friends) who have gone to straight razors or safety razors - all of them have switched back to electric or disposables within 2 or 3 years.

 

Definitely!

Thanks Robert, I'll try the more forgiving blades first and shall set the Futur to one. I'll pick up a reasonable badger brush while I'm at it and see what the soap options are at the gentleman's shaving store.

I'm really very excited to try this. It sounds far more interesting than cartridge shaving, which is a bit dull and unrewarding.

All the best,
Andrew.

 

The Gentleman's Shop in Hungerford? Great people; I've bought a lot of stuff from them. Truly a mom and pop outfit: say hi to Robert and Charlotte for me.

 

Executive Shaving, they're mostly web/mail order and operate from a warehouse in Glasgow. However, they also have a stall in Silverburn Shopping Centre, which is quite close to me.

Hungerford is a bit of a trek from here.

All the best,
Andrew.

 

Ah. I've never been to Hungerford, either (I mean to stop if I go to Cheltenham for the jumps.) However, I've dealt with TGS a lot as they're one of the few stockists to carry Castle Forbes.